Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
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Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)

Heady scents fill the air as skilled pickers in India pluck white jasmine before the still fresh buds are rushed for processing into a valuable ingredient for global perfumes.

Jasmine only issues its powerful scent when it blooms at night, and pickers must select only the ones yet to open.

"We know which one to pick," said Malarkodi, who gave only one name, as she snapped her fingers carefully to pluck the buds, tucking into her hair a few flowers that had already bloomed.

"There is no use of these... but I like the smell," she said.

Jasmine's fragrant flowers have been used for millennia in India and the scent is a key part of world-famous perfumes.

In the ancient city of Madurai in southern India, jasmine is omnipresent -- attracting buyers from some of the world's most recognizable perfumes, including J'adore by Dior and Mon Guerlain by Guerlain.

"It is one of the most expensive oils in the world," said Raja Palaniswamy, a director of Jasmine Concrete, which squeezes vast quantities of jasmine to create a few precious drops of delicious-smelling essence.

The women picking the buds earn around $1.50 a day per day for about four to five kilograms -- with each kilogram made up of around 4,000 buds.

Once picked, the jasmine is rushed to market, selling for anything between 200 and 2,000 rupees ($2.40-$24) a kilogram on special days.

The jasmine of Madurai, an Asian variety with the scientific name Jasminum sambac, was given a "geographical indication" tag from the World Intellectual Property Organization in 2013, which noted its "deep fragrance".

"It is lush, it is rich, it is vibrant," said Thierry Wasser, perfumer and "nose" at French beauty house Guerlain, speaking to AFP while visiting the jasmine operators.

The jasmine in Madurai has a "smoothness... and something floral which is immutable," Wasser added. Wasser sources the jasmine oil he uses from Palaniswamy's company.

As well as Guerlain, Palaniswamy said his company sells jasmine oil to companies including Bulgari, Dior and Lush.

'Real fragrance'

The process to extract the oil requires long hours of labor.

The women who pluck the jasmine -- be it for their deity, weddings, funerals or expensive perfumes -- have no time to romance its appeal.

In a jasmine field on the outskirts of the ancient city, women tenderly move the branches of the bush, looking for the perfect bud.

The processing factory runs around the clock in harvest season, with workers raking out fresh-picked flowers and waiting for the oblong-shaped buds to bloom.

"The minute it starts blooming, it starts emitting its fragrance," Palaniswamy said.

Late in the night, as the jasmine's sweet scent fills the air, workers collect the blooms and load them into extractors.

The freshly picked jasmine is immersed in a solvent to absorb the fragrance molecules to give a waxy extract called concrete.

The concrete is further processed with alcohol to remove the waxes carefully, which then results in a potent absolute. This absolute becomes the ingredient in perfumes.

Around 700 kilograms of fresh jasmine is reduced to just one kilogram of oil, selling for around $4,200, Palaniswamy said.

But Amsavalli Karuppuswamy, who runs a stall outside the flower market where she threads flowers into garlands, said the fresh jasmine will always outweigh any oil.

"I will continue to do this job till I die... women like jasmine, so that is why we are doing this," she said.

"The scents are not worth as much as the original jasmine flowers -- nothing can match the real fragrance of the jasmine."



‘Common Ground’ Event Celebrating Iraqi Culture Opens in Riyadh

The "Common Ground" event is held at Mega Studios in Riyadh. SPA
The "Common Ground" event is held at Mega Studios in Riyadh. SPA
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‘Common Ground’ Event Celebrating Iraqi Culture Opens in Riyadh

The "Common Ground" event is held at Mega Studios in Riyadh. SPA
The "Common Ground" event is held at Mega Studios in Riyadh. SPA

The "Common Ground" event, organized by the Saudi Ministry of Culture, opens on Wednesday to the public until December 31 at Mega Studios in Riyadh, celebrating Iraqi culture and the historical and cultural bonds between the Kingdom and Iraq.

Visitors are set to embark on a rich journey filled with sensory, visual, and auditory experiences within an immersive environment that invites interaction and engagement with the cultures of both nations, the Saudi Press Agency reported.

The event is divided into four main sections. The first features an art exhibition showcasing over 100 pieces by renowned Saudi and Iraqi artists, highlighting the deep cultural similarities and emphasizing significant historical milestones backed by thorough research. This section includes diverse cultural sectors that reflect an esthetic blend of creativity and cultural diversity in a harmonious setting. "The Host" segment offers a pathway titled "Dialogue Between Civilizations," which illustrates the interwoven histories of Saudi Arabia and Iraq, emphasizing their longstanding relationship and cultural connections.

The second section, "Al-Mutanabbi Street," presents an Arabic calligraphy mural, poems by Al-Mutanabbi, and the Shabandar Café. It highlights the cultural significance of the revered poet Al-Mutanabbi in Baghdad, creating an atmosphere that reflects authentic literary and cultural traditions with book-filled shops and seminars that delve into cultural and intellectual topics relevant to both countries. All this is complemented by musical performances that tie everything together with a rich cultural backdrop.

In the third section called "Realm of Melody and Authenticity," classical music concerts will create a fitting ambiance, featuring performances by leading Saudi and Iraqi artists. It will also honor various artists whose contributions have enriched the cultural and artistic scene.

"Path of Connection" is the fourth section that showcases diverse aspects of both Saudi and Iraqi cultures, deepening visitors’ experiences and familiarizing them with the cultural elements of each nation. A vibrant, creative area for children will offer enjoyable learning activities centered around the cultures of both countries, including heritage games, arts and crafts, and interactive storytelling.

The restaurant area promises a unique culinary experience featuring dishes that blend Saudi and Iraqi flavors reflecting both nations’ rich heritage and authentic culinary traditions. Visitors may also enjoy an array of hot and cold beverages, such as distinctly flavored Saudi coffee and traditional Iraqi tea, embodying the hospitality that is at the heart of Arab culture.

The event aims to deepen cultural understanding through innovative artistic experiences that showcase the civilizations of Saudi Arabia and Iraq. It highlights the shared heritage and arts of both nations and contributes to strengthening the cultural relations between their peoples.

This initiative reflects the Ministry of Culture's dedication to fostering international cultural exchange as part of the national cultural strategy under Saudi Vision 2030.