Emiratis Battle to Preserve Dying Art of Embroidery

An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)
An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)
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Emiratis Battle to Preserve Dying Art of Embroidery

An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)
An Emirati woman weaves thread in the Al Talli method, a traditional local weaving technique, during an annual heritage festival in Al-Ain on November 10, 2023. (AFP)

Far from Dubai's glitzy towers, Mariam al-Kalbani's henna-dyed fingers weave brightly colored threads in a skill she hopes young Emirati women watching her can preserve for the future.

The art of hand-weaving braided shiny ribbons to adorn traditional clothing and bags is called Al Talli, and is on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.

But with the relentless pace of change in the United Arab Emirates, its days may be numbered.

"It's a craft of our ancestors and our people," Kalbani told AFP in Al Ain, the UAE's fourth largest city, which sits between mountains and the desert.

"If we do not take initiative and introduce it to them, it will disappear."

The 70-year-old craftswoman, wearing a traditional black abaya robe and golden face covering, has been training students and apprentices in the art for 15 years.

"The goal is to revive the heritage for the next generation," she said.

She emphasized that mastering Al Talli doesn't happen "in a couple of hours -- it could take a year or two, especially if training is done just once a week".

Kalbani has been weaving Al Talli since she was a teenager.

The simplest Al Talli designs are made from six threads -- although they can number up to 50 -- and mastering the process of combining them with beads, ornaments and precious metals such as gold can take a long time.

'Rare and special'

Accounting student Reem al-Ketbi watched Kalbani intently as she worked on a round cushion called a Mousadah, weaving a silver thread back and forth during a recent handicrafts festival.

"Every time I see Al Talli, I remember the Emirati identity -- it's something rare and special," said the 23-year-old, who began learning the craft last year while also pursuing her studies.

No precise information on Al Talli's origins exists.

But Mohamed Hassan Abdel Hafez, a cultural heritage expert at the Sharjah Institute for Heritage, said it has been passed down through multiple generations, "at least from grandparents to grandchildren", in line with UNESCO's listing requirements.

"In the field of intangible cultural heritage, it is very difficult to determine the exact date or when it historically began," he said.

However, the UAE authorities are working to preserve traditions that date from before the development of the oil industry in the country.

Kalbani laments that her own daughters did not take up the craft, but smiled as her three-year-old granddaughter beside her asked questions about the braids and threads.

Al Talli was not the only tradition being highlighted at the Crafts and Traditional Industries Festival.

At the main square in Al Ain, American Katie Gaimer watched men performing the traditional Ayalah dance, wielding bamboo sticks or unloaded rifles to the rhythm of folk songs.

The 35-year-old teacher said she and her friends had just enjoyed an Al Talli workshop, where they had a free lesson on how to make bracelets.

"It kind of felt like we were making friendship bracelets... it was fun and it was nice to learn from somebody teaching it in a traditional way," she said.

'Worth preserving'

Elsewhere, women produced various items including Sadu fabric, which is used for tents, carpets and camel saddles, and is also listed by UNESCO.

Aisha al-Dhaheri, who works to promote traditional crafts at the Department of Culture and Tourism in Abu Dhabi, said authorities hope to support Al Talli by licensing certified experts to expand production and teaching.

"It's considered at risk of disappearance, so we tried to expedite preservation efforts by organizing training courses," she said.

Accounting student Ketbi believes that young women these days "are not very interested" in learning craft techniques from long ago.

But she still considers preserving them worthwhile "out of love for the country".

At one shop in the festival area, octogenarian Kulthum al-Mansouri sold bags, incense burners, bracelets, necklaces, medals and key chains -- all adorned with Al Talli which she herself braided under the eyes of passers-by.

She said she felt saddened that young women seem less interested in Al Talli than ever, distracted as they were "by screens and phones".

But she still hoped the skill could be passed on because her generation cannot maintain it forever.

"For how long do we have left to live?" she said.



Multi-Billion-Dollar Art Districts to Be Developed as Part of Diriyah Project in Saudi Arabia

The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)
The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)
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Multi-Billion-Dollar Art Districts to Be Developed as Part of Diriyah Project in Saudi Arabia

The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)
The announcement was made during the second edition of the “Bashayer - Delivering our Future” annual event. (SPA)

Diriyah Company announced on Wednesday the details of two high-profile multi-billion-dollar educational and arts districts to be developed as part of the $63.2 billion Diriyah project on the outskirts of Riyadh.

The announcement was made during the second edition of its annual international event “Bashayer - Delivering our Future”, which gathered global investors, hospitality companies, construction firms, infrastructure experts and sports, arts, culture, tourism and retail sector representatives, Diriyah Company said in a statement.

The two new districts, the Qurain Cultural District and the Northern District, are proof of the accelerating growth and development of Diriyah, one of the world’s biggest and most unique urban development projects spanning an area of 14 square kilometers.

The Qurain Cultural District is set to become a vibrant global hub where culture meets modern urban living. It will offer a diverse range of arts, retail, office, and residential spaces for people to live, work, shop local brands, and enjoy local dining experiences.

Its cultural offerings will include a cinema, museums, and several academies focused on writing, traditional Najdi architecture and mud building, Arabic music, culinary arts, performing arts, and theater. It will also include two world-class hotels and branded residences: the Ritz-Carlton Diriyah, with 195 rooms and 165 residences, and the Address Diriyah, offering 204 rooms and 60 serviced apartments.

The district will feature 19 mixed-use buildings, including office, retail, and residences, 10 of which have various boutique office options, and a wide range of retail space and dining venues.

The development of the Qurain Cultural District will proceed under a SAR5.8 billion ($1.55 billion) contract.

Development work in the Northern District began following the announcement of a partnership contract worth SAR7.8 billion ($2 billion) in July 2024.

The Northern District, said the release, will transform Diriyah into a global hub for scholars, students, and visionaries. It will feature the King Salman Foundation, museums, a university, a library, and a lively public square. It will also host the newly announced Capella Diriyah, a 100-room luxury hotel that represents Capella Hotels and Resorts' first venture in the Middle East.

Work on the Northern District is already under way after a SAR7.8 billion ($2 billion) joint venture contract was awarded to China State Construction Engineering Cooperation Limited and El Seif Engineering Contracting Co. Ltd.

Commenting on the new high-profile districts, Diriyah Company Group CEO Jerry Inzerillo said: “Qurain Cultural District and Northern District are two of the most important and significant areas of the Diriyah masterplan, and demonstrate the range and diversity of what Diriyah has to offer.”

“They will both become global centers of excellence, of knowledge, learning and creativity as Diriyah once more becomes a gathering place for the world. We are delighted to share details of these major developments at Bashayer and share once more the unique range of investment opportunities and partnerships the Diriyah Company has to offer the world,” he added.

The Diriyah project is one of Saudi Arabia’s five giga-projects supported by the Public Investment Fund, the world's fifth-largest sovereign wealth fund. It aims to provide homes for 100,000 residents, create 178,000 jobs, attract 50 million visitors annually, and contribute $18.6 billion to Saudi Arabia’s GDP.