Looted Gold, Royal Treasures Go on Show Back Home in Ghana

 Looted artifacts returned by British and American museums are displayed to the public for the first time at the Manhyia Palace in Kumasi, Ghana, May 1, 2024. (Reuters)
Looted artifacts returned by British and American museums are displayed to the public for the first time at the Manhyia Palace in Kumasi, Ghana, May 1, 2024. (Reuters)
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Looted Gold, Royal Treasures Go on Show Back Home in Ghana

 Looted artifacts returned by British and American museums are displayed to the public for the first time at the Manhyia Palace in Kumasi, Ghana, May 1, 2024. (Reuters)
Looted artifacts returned by British and American museums are displayed to the public for the first time at the Manhyia Palace in Kumasi, Ghana, May 1, 2024. (Reuters)

Gold neck discs, a sword, a royal chair and dozens of other treasures looted during British colonial rule went on show in Ghana this week for the first time since their historic return.

People travelled from across the West African country to see the repatriated plunder in the city of Kumasi, the seat of Asante King Otumfuo Osei Tutu II, known as the Asantehene.

"The items that came back are virtually the soul of the people of Asante," the monarch said at the exhibition, which marks his silver jubilee.

The gold regalia was looted during Britain's 1821-1957 colonization of what is now Ghana, much of it taken during violent battles with the Asante kingdom and placed in museums.

London's British and Victoria & Albert museums, and the Fowler Museum at the University of California, sent the artefacts back earlier this year - part of a growing move by Western institutions to reexamine colonial legacies.

Negotiations to return the items took more than 50 years, the Asantehene said.

Other museums in the US and Europe have agreed to hand back treasures taken from the Kingdom of Benin in modern-day Nigeria and received requests for returns from other states across the continent, including Egypt and Ethiopia.

"Most of our things are not written, they are expressed in the art we see," documentary-maker Lawer Akunor said at the show.

"Bringing these (back) is bringing the history to whom it belongs."

Most of the 42 items on display at Kumasi's Manhyia Palace Museum were taken during five battles between the Asante Kingdom and Britain known as the Anglo-Asante wars. Many were pillaged directly from the Asante palace.

Some of Britain's main national museums are banned by law from handing over or disposing of the bulk of their collections. So 32 objects from the British Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) are in Ghana on loan.

"We acknowledge the very painful history surrounding the acquisition of these objects. A history tainted by the scars of imperial conflict and colonialism," V&A Director Tristram Hunt said at the opening.

The V&A has loaned 17 items to the Manhyia museum for three years, with the possibility of another three-year renewal. Objects include a gold peace pipe and gold discs worn during royal ceremonies.

Sculptor Gabriel Bekoe said he was inspired by the display.

"Seeing them will help me know what I used to be and that will influence the ideas and concepts I build afterward," he said.



Syria's Aleppo Set for Revival Despite War Scars to its Heritage

During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP
During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP
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Syria's Aleppo Set for Revival Despite War Scars to its Heritage

During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP
During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP

The historic Baron Hotel in Syria's Aleppo is dilapidated and damaged by years of war but still standing and ready for a revival, much like the city itself.

Aleppo's old city, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, was ravaged by the conflict that erupted after a government crackdown on protests in 2011.

Between 2012 and 2016, it became a battleground between Syria's military and opposition factions.

The army of now-ousted president Bashar al-Assad shelled opposition fighters from the ground and struck them from the air, supported by Russian firepower.
Opposition groups, meanwhile, used mortars and artisanal rockets, as the fighting turned ancient streets into sniper alleys.

During the four years of fighting before the government recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied.

Now, after Assad's fall following a lightning opposition offensive led by Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, residents are looking forward to reconstruction.

"Unfortunately, more than 60 percent of the edifices in the old city, monuments of the old city of Aleppo, were devastated to ground zero," said Georges Edleby, a tour guide in the city for 35 years.

"Hopefully there will be a day that we see them again restored."

The ancient souks where Aleppo's famed olive oil soap is piled up in stacks for sale has been reduced in many places to little more than rubble.

- 'Hope for a better life' -

Aleppo's medieval citadel, however, remains relatively intact.

Opposition fighters, one with a rose slipped into the barrel of his gun, stood guard outside the ancient ramparts, which Syria's army turned into a stronghold during the war.

Most of the damage in the citadel was caused by a 2023 earthquake, locals say.

Below in the old city, a few alleys of the souk -- once the largest in the world with 4,000 stalls -- have reopened after being restored, including with Saudi financial aid.

Jamal Habbal, 66, has spent all his life under the stone vaults of the old city and reopened his macrame and rope shop there a year ago.

"We have so many memories here. It was a big market that was vibrant and lively. Girls used to come to buy items for their trousseaus. They could find everything," he told AFP.

"And then suddenly, the crisis," he said, reluctant to even say the word war.

"We had to leave. I returned in 2018, but it's still difficult," he added, speaking in a dark and largely deserted alley.

Fadel Fadel has also reopened his shop offering souvenirs, soap and mother-of-pearl inlaid boxes.

"It was completely destroyed here," said the 51-year-old.

He is hoping to see Aleppo returned to its status as a "center of commerce, industry and tourism."

"We hope for a better life."

- Museum ready to reopen -

Outside, dusty streets wind between ruins that await reconstruction and revival.

The Baron Hotel once welcomed Agatha Christie, Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser and France's Charles de Gaulle.

Visitors flocked to see the somewhat faded glory of its rooms, as well as its terrace and the unpaid bar bill belonging to one Lawrence of Arabia.

But now, several broken windows adorned with shutters hanging from a single hinge offer a view into a deserted building covered in dust.

The hotel's future is uncertain.

Its last owner, Armen Mazloumian, has passed away. He told AFP back in 2014 that he felt the hotel's glory days were behind it and it would "never be what it once was again".

Nearby, however, the National Museum of Aleppo is readying to reopen. Its courtyard was hit in shelling but its building and collection were spared.

Director Ahmed Othman said the museum "took lessons from the experience of our neighbours," including institutions in Iraq and Lebanon.

"We took the necessary measures to protect our collections," he said.

"The statues that were too heavy to move were encased in concrete and the smaller pieces were moved to safe places."

Treasures that trace nine millennia of history and the birth of writing in nearby Mesopotamia have been preserved unharmed as a result.

"We did many things in order to protect the museum as a whole," said Othman