Will a Curfew Ease Overtourism in Seoul’s Historic Hanok Village?

A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
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Will a Curfew Ease Overtourism in Seoul’s Historic Hanok Village?

A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)

Kwon Young-doo, owner of a private art gallery in Seoul's historic Bukchon Hanok Village, is concerned about an impending curfew policy aimed at mitigating overtourism in the area.

The curfew, set for a trial in November and to be officially launched in March next year, will limit tourist access to specific areas of Bukchon from 5 p.m. (0800 GMT) to 10 a.m. Fines of up to 100,000 won ($72) will be imposed on violators.

"Who would want to visit?" said Kwon, the owner of the Asian Cultural Art Museum, who moved to the historic area 18 years ago. "They'll leave with a bad impression of South Korea."

Bukchon Hanok Village, with its narrow winding alleyways in hilly northern Seoul, dates back to the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897). The area has become a popular tourist destination, especially after being featured on a TV show a decade ago.

Tourists and Koreans alike are drawn to the neighborhood for its quaint houses with signature wood columns and doors, a courtyard and tiled roof.

However, increased tourism has become more than an inconvenience for the residents, who complain about noise, littering, public urination and invasion of privacy.

Some tourists have been caught on surveillance cameras trying to enter private homes or peeking inside without permission, generating friction with locals.

Many residents have chosen to leave, leading to a 27.6% drop in the village's population over the past 10 years, according to the Jongno district office.

The area attracted approximately 6 million visitors last year, compared with its resident population of around 6,100.

Chung Moon-hun, the Jongno district head, says the goal is to protect the rights of residents and the restrictions will be adjusted if necessary to make it effective. The area where curfew hours and fines will be imposed is approximately 34,000 square meters, about the size of five soccer fields.

But residents are skeptical about the policy's effectiveness citing loopholes such as exemptions for tourists staying overnight in hanok accommodations. They also blame the proliferation of corporate-run hanok stays for disrupting their lives.

Since 2020, authorities have loosened restrictions on traditional Korean houses offering accommodation, resulting in a surge in corporate-run hanok stays in the residential areas, residents say.

In 2010, 10 traditional houses were registered in Bukchon under the name Traditional Korean Housing Experience Businesses; by October 2024, that number had ballooned to 116, according to the district office.

"People come for just a day to enjoy themselves, and the noise from parties is extremely loud," said Kim Eun-mee, who lives next to a hanok stay. Clearing trash in front of her home has become a chore she has to tend to several times a day.

"It's often difficult to maintain a normal daily routine due to disturbances like people dragging suitcases around even during the early hours, which frequently wakes me up."

Lee Dong-woo, CEO of hanok stay booking platform BUTLER.LEE, said the business took off when owners who found it difficult to renovate or maintain old houses entrusted the property to hospitality businesses.

"These requests are driving the expansion, not because we are actively evicting current residents to operate hanok stays, which is completely untrue," Lee who manages 17 hanok stays in Bukchon said.

Tourists, meanwhile, are divided over the curfew. Some agree the residents' quality of life is important. Others chafe at the idea of getting fined for simply walking down a public street.

There are also questions about enforcement; how to tell tourists from residents, how to make foreigners pay the fine, and the language barrier.



India’s Architecture Fans Guard Mumbai’s Art Deco Past

In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)
In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)
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India’s Architecture Fans Guard Mumbai’s Art Deco Past

In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)
In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)

A towering cinema with a roofline like an ocean liner stands out in India's financial capital Mumbai, part of a remarkable Art Deco architectural heritage that campaigners say needs protection.

A short walk away is a state-run insurance office with giant Egyptian-style carvings, and a palm-lined seafront promenade with pastel-colored apartments with porthole windows, curved balconies and exotic motifs.

Architecture aficionados may go crazy over Miami's South Beach, but the coastal Indian megacity is home to what experts believe is one of the world's largest collections of Art Deco buildings.

Decades of neglect, however, have led to buildings being demolished or compromised through slapdash modern renovation.

Lovers of the dramatic architecture fear that will only increase as Mumbai undergoes a rapid $30 billion infrastructure makeover including major road, rail and bridge projects.

A sweep of some Art Deco buildings -- including offices, colleges and residential complexes -- was listed on UNESCO's World Heritage list in 2018, alongside the city's Victorian Gothic architecture for its "unique style" described as "Indo-Deco".

Today, the city's breakneck pace of development has left a small but dedicated group of building owners, architects and heritage lovers trying to conserve the city's Art Deco character.

The job requires "constant vigilance", said Nayana Kathpalia, who lives in an Art Deco building that was recently restored -- but crucially in a manner that maintained its original character.

- 'Modern, open, friendly' -

Many apartment building owners are eager to cash in and redevelop their old dwellings, making them part of a cookie-cutter modern skyline.

"If too many buildings get done in a totally different style, the World Heritage Site committee will say 'what the hell is happening?'," Kathpalia said.

"We are very, very clear that we have to protect that."

Losing it could strip the city of its history and character, campaigners say.

Art Deco took the West by storm after emerging as a new wave of design in France before the First World War.

Architects used geometric patterns and streamlined structures to evoke the popular technologies of the time, including airplanes and ocean liners.

As a style, Art Deco can appear as an odd hodgepodge, borrowing everything from ancient Mayan to Japanese culture.

But the first generation of homegrown Indian architects who visited Europe in the 1920s and 1930s were inspired.

After returning home, they started designing Art Deco style buildings for rich Indian business families that had profited off the economic boom in the port city, said Atul Kumar, founder of a non-profit that seeks to conserve the heritage.

Art Deco "enabled a certain cosmopolitanism" and contributed to making Mumbai a "modern, open, friendly" city, Kumar added.

- 'Bombay style' -

While Kumar's Art Deco Mumbai organization has spent years painstakingly documenting buildings, it has also more recently started offering "repair and restoration" help.

"We go out, pro bono, and reach out to people," he said, having supported the sensitive restoration of around nine buildings, including a couple in the core World Heritage area.

However, there are challenges, including stringent rent control laws which impose financial constraints on landlords.

Kumar also admits that residents in newer and northern parts of the city have less of a "desire" to conserve their buildings in their original Art Deco style.

A large part of this is due to a lack of awareness.

Many of the city's inhabitants walk past the vivid tropical imagery, elongated turrets and jazzy typography without giving them a second glance.

Pranati Mehta, a 46-year-old school teacher, says most Indians only look at "temples as architecture", as they "feel that is special".

Some Mumbai residents don't realize they "live amongst art", she said.

But Mehta, who was on a weekend walking tour to learn more about the architectural style, quickly adds that Art Deco isn't foreign to Indian sensibilities.

"We recognize it as a Bombay style," she said. "We think Art Deco is also an Indian brand".