Will a Curfew Ease Overtourism in Seoul’s Historic Hanok Village?

A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
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Will a Curfew Ease Overtourism in Seoul’s Historic Hanok Village?

A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)

Kwon Young-doo, owner of a private art gallery in Seoul's historic Bukchon Hanok Village, is concerned about an impending curfew policy aimed at mitigating overtourism in the area.

The curfew, set for a trial in November and to be officially launched in March next year, will limit tourist access to specific areas of Bukchon from 5 p.m. (0800 GMT) to 10 a.m. Fines of up to 100,000 won ($72) will be imposed on violators.

"Who would want to visit?" said Kwon, the owner of the Asian Cultural Art Museum, who moved to the historic area 18 years ago. "They'll leave with a bad impression of South Korea."

Bukchon Hanok Village, with its narrow winding alleyways in hilly northern Seoul, dates back to the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897). The area has become a popular tourist destination, especially after being featured on a TV show a decade ago.

Tourists and Koreans alike are drawn to the neighborhood for its quaint houses with signature wood columns and doors, a courtyard and tiled roof.

However, increased tourism has become more than an inconvenience for the residents, who complain about noise, littering, public urination and invasion of privacy.

Some tourists have been caught on surveillance cameras trying to enter private homes or peeking inside without permission, generating friction with locals.

Many residents have chosen to leave, leading to a 27.6% drop in the village's population over the past 10 years, according to the Jongno district office.

The area attracted approximately 6 million visitors last year, compared with its resident population of around 6,100.

Chung Moon-hun, the Jongno district head, says the goal is to protect the rights of residents and the restrictions will be adjusted if necessary to make it effective. The area where curfew hours and fines will be imposed is approximately 34,000 square meters, about the size of five soccer fields.

But residents are skeptical about the policy's effectiveness citing loopholes such as exemptions for tourists staying overnight in hanok accommodations. They also blame the proliferation of corporate-run hanok stays for disrupting their lives.

Since 2020, authorities have loosened restrictions on traditional Korean houses offering accommodation, resulting in a surge in corporate-run hanok stays in the residential areas, residents say.

In 2010, 10 traditional houses were registered in Bukchon under the name Traditional Korean Housing Experience Businesses; by October 2024, that number had ballooned to 116, according to the district office.

"People come for just a day to enjoy themselves, and the noise from parties is extremely loud," said Kim Eun-mee, who lives next to a hanok stay. Clearing trash in front of her home has become a chore she has to tend to several times a day.

"It's often difficult to maintain a normal daily routine due to disturbances like people dragging suitcases around even during the early hours, which frequently wakes me up."

Lee Dong-woo, CEO of hanok stay booking platform BUTLER.LEE, said the business took off when owners who found it difficult to renovate or maintain old houses entrusted the property to hospitality businesses.

"These requests are driving the expansion, not because we are actively evicting current residents to operate hanok stays, which is completely untrue," Lee who manages 17 hanok stays in Bukchon said.

Tourists, meanwhile, are divided over the curfew. Some agree the residents' quality of life is important. Others chafe at the idea of getting fined for simply walking down a public street.

There are also questions about enforcement; how to tell tourists from residents, how to make foreigners pay the fine, and the language barrier.



Syria's Aleppo Set for Revival Despite War Scars to its Heritage

During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP
During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP
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Syria's Aleppo Set for Revival Despite War Scars to its Heritage

During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP
During the four years of fighting before Assad's forces recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied - AFP

The historic Baron Hotel in Syria's Aleppo is dilapidated and damaged by years of war but still standing and ready for a revival, much like the city itself.

Aleppo's old city, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, was ravaged by the conflict that erupted after a government crackdown on protests in 2011.

Between 2012 and 2016, it became a battleground between Syria's military and opposition factions.

The army of now-ousted president Bashar al-Assad shelled opposition fighters from the ground and struck them from the air, supported by Russian firepower.
Opposition groups, meanwhile, used mortars and artisanal rockets, as the fighting turned ancient streets into sniper alleys.

During the four years of fighting before the government recaptured Aleppo following a devastating siege, the city was virtually emptied.

Now, after Assad's fall following a lightning opposition offensive led by Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, residents are looking forward to reconstruction.

"Unfortunately, more than 60 percent of the edifices in the old city, monuments of the old city of Aleppo, were devastated to ground zero," said Georges Edleby, a tour guide in the city for 35 years.

"Hopefully there will be a day that we see them again restored."

The ancient souks where Aleppo's famed olive oil soap is piled up in stacks for sale has been reduced in many places to little more than rubble.

- 'Hope for a better life' -

Aleppo's medieval citadel, however, remains relatively intact.

Opposition fighters, one with a rose slipped into the barrel of his gun, stood guard outside the ancient ramparts, which Syria's army turned into a stronghold during the war.

Most of the damage in the citadel was caused by a 2023 earthquake, locals say.

Below in the old city, a few alleys of the souk -- once the largest in the world with 4,000 stalls -- have reopened after being restored, including with Saudi financial aid.

Jamal Habbal, 66, has spent all his life under the stone vaults of the old city and reopened his macrame and rope shop there a year ago.

"We have so many memories here. It was a big market that was vibrant and lively. Girls used to come to buy items for their trousseaus. They could find everything," he told AFP.

"And then suddenly, the crisis," he said, reluctant to even say the word war.

"We had to leave. I returned in 2018, but it's still difficult," he added, speaking in a dark and largely deserted alley.

Fadel Fadel has also reopened his shop offering souvenirs, soap and mother-of-pearl inlaid boxes.

"It was completely destroyed here," said the 51-year-old.

He is hoping to see Aleppo returned to its status as a "center of commerce, industry and tourism."

"We hope for a better life."

- Museum ready to reopen -

Outside, dusty streets wind between ruins that await reconstruction and revival.

The Baron Hotel once welcomed Agatha Christie, Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser and France's Charles de Gaulle.

Visitors flocked to see the somewhat faded glory of its rooms, as well as its terrace and the unpaid bar bill belonging to one Lawrence of Arabia.

But now, several broken windows adorned with shutters hanging from a single hinge offer a view into a deserted building covered in dust.

The hotel's future is uncertain.

Its last owner, Armen Mazloumian, has passed away. He told AFP back in 2014 that he felt the hotel's glory days were behind it and it would "never be what it once was again".

Nearby, however, the National Museum of Aleppo is readying to reopen. Its courtyard was hit in shelling but its building and collection were spared.

Director Ahmed Othman said the museum "took lessons from the experience of our neighbours," including institutions in Iraq and Lebanon.

"We took the necessary measures to protect our collections," he said.

"The statues that were too heavy to move were encased in concrete and the smaller pieces were moved to safe places."

Treasures that trace nine millennia of history and the birth of writing in nearby Mesopotamia have been preserved unharmed as a result.

"We did many things in order to protect the museum as a whole," said Othman