Will a Curfew Ease Overtourism in Seoul’s Historic Hanok Village?

A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
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Will a Curfew Ease Overtourism in Seoul’s Historic Hanok Village?

A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)
A large crowd of tourists walks through Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, South Korea, October 25, 2024. (Reuters)

Kwon Young-doo, owner of a private art gallery in Seoul's historic Bukchon Hanok Village, is concerned about an impending curfew policy aimed at mitigating overtourism in the area.

The curfew, set for a trial in November and to be officially launched in March next year, will limit tourist access to specific areas of Bukchon from 5 p.m. (0800 GMT) to 10 a.m. Fines of up to 100,000 won ($72) will be imposed on violators.

"Who would want to visit?" said Kwon, the owner of the Asian Cultural Art Museum, who moved to the historic area 18 years ago. "They'll leave with a bad impression of South Korea."

Bukchon Hanok Village, with its narrow winding alleyways in hilly northern Seoul, dates back to the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897). The area has become a popular tourist destination, especially after being featured on a TV show a decade ago.

Tourists and Koreans alike are drawn to the neighborhood for its quaint houses with signature wood columns and doors, a courtyard and tiled roof.

However, increased tourism has become more than an inconvenience for the residents, who complain about noise, littering, public urination and invasion of privacy.

Some tourists have been caught on surveillance cameras trying to enter private homes or peeking inside without permission, generating friction with locals.

Many residents have chosen to leave, leading to a 27.6% drop in the village's population over the past 10 years, according to the Jongno district office.

The area attracted approximately 6 million visitors last year, compared with its resident population of around 6,100.

Chung Moon-hun, the Jongno district head, says the goal is to protect the rights of residents and the restrictions will be adjusted if necessary to make it effective. The area where curfew hours and fines will be imposed is approximately 34,000 square meters, about the size of five soccer fields.

But residents are skeptical about the policy's effectiveness citing loopholes such as exemptions for tourists staying overnight in hanok accommodations. They also blame the proliferation of corporate-run hanok stays for disrupting their lives.

Since 2020, authorities have loosened restrictions on traditional Korean houses offering accommodation, resulting in a surge in corporate-run hanok stays in the residential areas, residents say.

In 2010, 10 traditional houses were registered in Bukchon under the name Traditional Korean Housing Experience Businesses; by October 2024, that number had ballooned to 116, according to the district office.

"People come for just a day to enjoy themselves, and the noise from parties is extremely loud," said Kim Eun-mee, who lives next to a hanok stay. Clearing trash in front of her home has become a chore she has to tend to several times a day.

"It's often difficult to maintain a normal daily routine due to disturbances like people dragging suitcases around even during the early hours, which frequently wakes me up."

Lee Dong-woo, CEO of hanok stay booking platform BUTLER.LEE, said the business took off when owners who found it difficult to renovate or maintain old houses entrusted the property to hospitality businesses.

"These requests are driving the expansion, not because we are actively evicting current residents to operate hanok stays, which is completely untrue," Lee who manages 17 hanok stays in Bukchon said.

Tourists, meanwhile, are divided over the curfew. Some agree the residents' quality of life is important. Others chafe at the idea of getting fined for simply walking down a public street.

There are also questions about enforcement; how to tell tourists from residents, how to make foreigners pay the fine, and the language barrier.



War Casts Shadow over Lebanon’s Ancient Baalbek

Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)
Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)
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War Casts Shadow over Lebanon’s Ancient Baalbek

Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)
Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)

Since war erupted between Israel and Hezbollah, the famed Palmyra Hotel in east Lebanon's Baalbek has been without visitors, but long-time employee Rabih Salika refuses to leave -- even as bombs drop nearby.

The hotel, which was built in 1874, once welcomed renowned guests including former French President Charles de Gaulle and American singer Nina Simone.

Overlooking a large archaeological complex encompassing the ruins of an ancient Roman town, the Palmyra has kept its doors open through several conflicts and years of economic collapse.

"This hotel hasn't closed its doors for 150 years," Salika said, explaining that it welcomed guests at the height of Lebanon's 1975-1990 civil war and during Israel's last war with Hezbollah in 2006.

The 45-year-old has worked there for more than half his life and says he will not abandon it now.

"I'm very attached to this place," he said, adding that the hotel's vast, desolate halls leave "a huge pang in my heart".

He spends his days dusting decaying furniture and antique mirrors. He clears glass shards from windows shattered by strikes.

Baalbek, known as the "City of the Sun" in ancient times, is home to one of the world's largest complex of Roman temples -- designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

But the latest Israel-Hezbollah war has cast a pall over the eastern city, home to an estimated 250,000 people before the war.

Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike that targeted Lebanon's eastern city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 25, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)

- Life at a standstill -

After a year of cross-border clashes with Hezbollah, Israel last month ramped-up strikes on the group's strongholds, including parts of Baalbek.

Only about 40 percent of Baalbek's residents remain in the city, local officials say.

On October 6, Israeli strikes fell hundreds of meters (yards) away from the Roman columns that bring tourists to the city and the Palmyra hotel.

UNESCO told AFP it was "closely following the impact of the ongoing crisis in Lebanon on the cultural heritage sites".

More than a month into the war, a handful of Baalbek's shops remain open, albeit for short periods of time.

"The market is almost always closed. It opens for one hour a day, and sometimes not at all," said Baalbek mayor Mustafa al-Shall.

Residents shop for groceries quickly in the morning, rarely venturing out after sundown.

They try "not to linger on the streets fearing an air strike could hit at any moment," he said.

Last year, nearly 70,000 tourists and 100,000 Lebanese visited Baalbek. But the city has only attracted five percent of those figures so far this year, the mayor said.

Even before the war, local authorities in Baalbek were struggling to provide public services due to a five-year economic crisis.

Now municipality employees are mainly working to clear the rubble from the streets and provide assistance to shelters housing the displaced.

A Baalbek hospital was put out of service by a recent Israeli strike, leaving only five other facilities still fully functioning, Shall said.

A cat walks at the entrance of the historical Palmyra hotel in the eastern Lebanese city of Baalbek on October 19, 2024. (AFP)

- 'No one' -

Baalbek resident Hussein al-Jammal said the war has turned his life upside down.

"The streets were full of life, the citadel was welcoming visitors, restaurants were open, and the markets were crowded," the 37-year-old social worker said.

"Now, there is no one."

His young children and his wife have fled the fighting, but he said he had a duty to stay behind and help those in need.

"I work in the humanitarian field, I cannot leave, even if everyone leaves," he said.

Only four homes in his neighborhood are still inhabited, he said, mostly by vulnerable elderly people.

"I pay them a visit every morning to see what they need," he said, but "it's hard to be away from your family".

This picture shows closed shops on an empty street in the eastern Lebanese city of Baalbek on October 19, 2024. (AFP)

Rasha al-Rifai, 45, provides psychological support to women facing gender-based violence.

But in the month since the war began, she has lost contact with many.

"Before the war... we didn't worry about anything," said Rifai, who lives with her elderly parents.

"Now everything has changed, we work remotely, we don't see anyone, most of the people I know have left."

"In the 2006 war we were displaced several times, it was a very difficult experience, we don't want this to happen again," she said.

"We will stay here as long as it is bearable."