Fendi put a fitting exclamation point on Paris couture week by drawing an A-list crowd to the opulent Palais Brongniart. Naomi Watts, Zoe Saldana, Cardi B and Shakira were among the celebrities seated front row for a show that dazzled with its artful fusion of jewelry-making and deceptively simple couture.
The show unfurled with a strikingly neutral ensemble, seemingly a second skin, acting as the prelude to the jewelry-inspired collection. The design skill was evident in its huge, eccentric sleeve that darted out narrowly from the shoulder, capturing imaginations. In stark contrast came a fluid emerald green satin gown that cascaded down the runway, shimmering with the dynamism of a precious gem.
Figure-defining silhouettes in vibrant ruby red and jet black were showcased by models, their forms distilled down to their essential sinews. A cream sheath, brought to life with an Asian-inspired waist wrap, bore finely carved groove lines, invoking the refined artistry of jewelry craftsmanship.
Looks that seemed to bloom from the shoulders left necklace-less necks provocatively bare, as if in anticipation of an exquisite adornment.
The show was a poetical ode to couture. “Our canvas was a template inspired by high jewelry. Even in the absence of physical jewelry, its essence is echoed through the collection’s color palette and ornamentation, with the clothes themselves channeling the spirit of jewelry,” Kim Jones, Fendi’s designer, explained. “We took cues from the flesh tones and the hues of stones: black diamonds, rubies, sapphires. It’s a dance of soft and hard, flesh and stone.”
Elsewhere, fashion whispers were finally confirmed: Gabriela Hearst is stepping down as the creative director of Maison Chloé after a brief but impactful three-year tenure. Hearst, the first female designer with multicultural roots (Uruguay and United States) to lead a Parisian fashion house, has been a transformative force at Chloé since her appointment in December 2020.
Despite the relative brevity of her tenure, Hearst leaves an indelible imprint on Chloé. She ushered the house into a new era of sustainability, turning it into the first European luxury fashion house to secure a B Corp certification. Hearst’s sustainability agenda included innovative initiatives such as the integration of eco-friendly materials, a ground-breaking resale program and collections focusing on climate-forward solutions.
Her leadership at Chloé sparked considerable growth and a seismic shift in the fashion house’s ethos. Riccardo Bellini, president and CEO of Chloé, praised Hearst’s vision, passion and commitment to values, crediting her with scripting a “new and vibrant chapter” in the annals of Chloé.
