Zara Owner Inditex to Buy Recycled Polyester from US Start-up

FILE PHOTO: Barbie-themed merchandise is seen during the Barbie pop-up in Zara's Soho store in New York City, US July 20, 2023. REUTERS/Arriana McLymore/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Barbie-themed merchandise is seen during the Barbie pop-up in Zara's Soho store in New York City, US July 20, 2023. REUTERS/Arriana McLymore/File Photo
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Zara Owner Inditex to Buy Recycled Polyester from US Start-up

FILE PHOTO: Barbie-themed merchandise is seen during the Barbie pop-up in Zara's Soho store in New York City, US July 20, 2023. REUTERS/Arriana McLymore/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Barbie-themed merchandise is seen during the Barbie pop-up in Zara's Soho store in New York City, US July 20, 2023. REUTERS/Arriana McLymore/File Photo

Zara owner Inditex , the world's biggest clothing retailer, has agreed to buy recycled polyester from US start-up Ambercycle, according to a document seen by Reuters.

As fast-fashion retailers face pressure to reduce waste and use recycled fabrics, Inditex will invest 70 million euros ($74.19 million) in buying Ambercycle's recycled polyester made from textile waste. Polyester, a product of the petroleum industry, is widely used in sportswear as the fabric is quick-drying and durable.

Under the deal, Inditex will buy a "significant" portion of Ambercycle's production of recycled polyester, which it sells under the brand cycora, over three years, according to the document.

Inditex confirmed that it reached a deal with Ambercycle but did not provide details. The clothing retailer aims to have 25% of its fibers from "next-generation" materials by 2030.

The Inditex investment will help Los Angeles-based Ambercycle fund its first commercial-scale textile recycling factory. Production of cycora at the plant is expected to begin around 2025, and the material will be used in Inditex products over the following three years.

Zara Athleticz, a sub-brand of sportswear for men, will launch a capsule collection this week of "technical pieces" containing up to 50% cycora, according to the document.

Some apparel brands seeking to reduce their reliance on virgin polyester have switched to recycled polyester derived from plastic bottles, but that practice has come under criticism as it has created more demand for used plastic bottles, pushing up prices.

Textile-to-textile polyester recycling is in its infancy, though, and will take time to reach the scale required by global fashion brands.

The Ambercycle deal marks the latest in a series of investments made by Inditex into textile recycling start-ups.

Last year Inditex signed a 100 million euro ($104 million) three-year deal to buy 30% of the recycled fiber produced by Finland's Infinited Fiber Company, and invested in Circ, another US firm focused on textile-to-textile recycling.

In Spain, Inditex has joined forces with rivals including H&M and Mango in an association to manage clothing waste, as the industry prepares for EU legislation requiring member states to separately collect textile waste from January 2025.



Milan Fashion Week Opens with Light, Ethereal Yet Grounded Looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni 

A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
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Milan Fashion Week Opens with Light, Ethereal Yet Grounded Looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni 

A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)

Just as the northern hemisphere starts the wardrobe transition from summer to fall, runway shows in the world’s fashion capitals seek to stir the imagination, and desire, for the next warm weather season.

Milan designers have been ambiguous about seasons in recent fashion weeks, with summer collections not corresponding to the soaring temperatures. That was not the case during the first day of Milan Fashion Week previews on Tuesday, featuring diaphanous, dreamy summery dresses, alongside crisp cotton.

Here are highlights from the first day of Milan Fashion Week of runway previews of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025:

Fendi centenary

Fendi honored its upcoming centenary with a Spring-Summer 2025 collection that paid elegant homage to the founding era, from art deco detailing to a flapper silhouette, light on the fringe.

In snippets of conversation that punctuated the show’s soundtrack, Silvia Venturini Fendi emphasized the matriarchal lineage that has made her the third generation to play a key Fendi role. “My mother was the energy of the house,” Venturini Fendi recalled.

The collection by Fendi womenswear artistic director Kim Jones sought to spotlight “100 years of very chic Roman women,” combining ready-to-wear with artisanal detailing of couture. Diaphanous dresses with art-deco embroidery were grounded with boots. Slip dresses were turned upside down as skirts, worn with a sheer top embellished with crystals. Knitwear defined the silhouette, under sheers or hugging the body over diaphanous trousers.

Bags by Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories, were soft and huggable, often carried in triplicate.

Ferretti’s artisanal summer

Alberta Ferretti showed her summery creations in the courtyard of a former cloister, now a science museum, with an elegant dome rising in the background, the juxtaposition emphasizing the artisanal heritage in her collection.

Instead of embellishments, Ferretti focused on technique. Laser cut cotton created an almost lace effect. Individual cotton leaves were stitched together as dresses or accents on bodices. Pleating elevated dresses, while boxer shorts gave a casual flair.

The day looks were in earthy tones of sand, ecru and black. For evening, chiffon dresses flowed in bright shades.

“They are real summer clothes, because the world in the summer is very warm. I know a show is supposed to be a show but reality is important,” Ferretti said backstage.

Marni’s essential beauty

Marni maintained its zany heritage under creative director Francesco Risso, with a wardrobe of whimsically tailored everyday looks for him and for her.

The female silhouette was swathed in form-fitting dresses and skirts, often with deep back slits, sometimes with a mermaid flair. Feathers, boas and crystal embellishments were pretty, and sometimes off-beat accents.

For him, broad shouldered jackets contrasted with skinny trousers. An off-skew bow on a chiffony blouson was kept aloft through some sartorial trickery.

Mixing art with fashion, models emerged in threes, and wandered through the showroom full of wooden chairs on conversational groups to a percussive piano trio.

A sense of Marni whimsy permeated the collection, partly but not only through a series of hats with a yesteryear military flair made light with feathery accents. Risso appeared to confirm his Napoleonic intentions, taking a bow with his hand thrust inside his jacket.

“We like things that are bold,” Risso said after the show.