Chanel Revisits Deauville Roots with Cinematic Flair at Paris Fashion Week

Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)
Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)
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Chanel Revisits Deauville Roots with Cinematic Flair at Paris Fashion Week

Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)
Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)

In a cinematic homage blurring fashion and film, Chanel transported its audience at Paris Fashion Week to a fictional Deauville for its latest showcase. The black and white film of the Normandy seaside town, starring Brad Pitt and front-row observer Penelope Cruz, evoked Chanel’s roots. Fusing the 1920s heyday of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel with the drama of the ’70s, designer Virginie Viard recreated the founder’s wardrobe from the “winter sojourns by the sea.” Deauville changed the course of Chanel and arguably the Paris fashion industry.

Here are some highlights of fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear shows:

DEAUVILLE, THE MOVIE Pitt and Cruz, depicted in the idyllic town, captivated guests who watched the romance unfold on giant plasma screens, with scenes of beach frolics and bonding over an order of medium-rare Chateaubriand steaks. Deauville, which influenced Viard’s fall aesthetic with its floppy beach hats, played a pivotal role in Chanel's journey from licensed milliner to revolutionary designer.

“Deauville is where everything started for the house,” Viard said. It’s where Chanel drew inspiration from the world around her: the salty and striped uniforms of the fishermen, the speed of horses at the racetrack, the chic madames sunning on the sands.

“For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk,” Viard said, with chunky sailor sweaters, dressing gown-style belted coats and strong-shoulder peacoats. The colors evoked the hues of the town’s romantic skies with pinks, pale blue and oranges.

Despite the poetical musing and finely proportioned coats, the penchant for accessories sometimes distracted from the garments and, at times, muddied the clarity of Viard’s vision. The setting evoked memories of a past spectacle by Karl Lagerfeld, her flamboyant predecessor, known for transforming the Grand Palais into a real beach with actual water. Some attendees felt the décor, and the clothes, this time lacked vibrancy by comparison.

MIU MIU’S GROWING UP Miu Miu’s fall collection took a playful jab at the transition from childhood to adulthood. Miuccia Prada’s tongue-in-cheek little sister brand once again addressed profound themes through the lens of frivolity.

Cropped sleeves, rounded-toe shoes and pajamas with outerwear amid exaggeratedly shrunken proportions evoked the Tom Hanks movie “Big." Adulthood was seen as gloves and handbags, brooches, tailoring. The human condition, the pioneering designer seemed to say, was sometimes a fusion of both.

Miu Miu’s creations consistently embody a youthful spirit, merging elegance with playful defiance. This is evident in unexpected styling choices like pairing sometimes clashing classic pieces with undergarments or athletic wear, challenging traditional fashion norms.



Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
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Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)

Birkenstock beat market expectations for fourth-quarter results on robust demand for its pricey footwear and forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025, sending the company's shares up 7% on Wednesday.

With fresh styles becoming a priority for consumers, Birkenstock's sandals and closed-toe clogs have drawn new customers both at its own stores and at retailers.

The company bypassed steep discounting trends evident during the holiday shopping season, which Birkenstock executives said was off to a strong start globally.

"The expansion of ranges into more closed-toe silhouette has helped boost revenue, given that they offer multi-season wear," Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said.

Germany-based Birkenstock's average selling prices across its product range were up 8% in fiscal 2024, in part due to higher sales of clogs, the company said, adding that closed-toe styles now made up about a third of its business.

The company has invested in expanding its global store presence and increasing manufacturing capacity this year to meet demand.

While it led to a 330-basis point drop in gross margins in fiscal 2024, Birkenstock forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025 as it ramps up production from new facilities.

The company reported fourth-quarter revenue of 455.8 million euros ($478.27 million), compared with the average analyst estimate of 439.2 million euros, according to data compiled by LSEG.

However, Birkenstock's forecast for fiscal 2025 revenue to increase between 15% and 17% was below estimates of 17.5% growth.

"It would appear with this incredibly healthy growth, the company is choosing to adopt a conservative approach that they expect to be able to meet and beat," BMO Capital Markets analyst Simeon Siegel said.

On an adjusted basis, Birkenstock earned 0.29 euro per share, beating estimates of 0.26 euro.