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Chanel Revisits Deauville Roots with Cinematic Flair at Paris Fashion Week

Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)
Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)
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Chanel Revisits Deauville Roots with Cinematic Flair at Paris Fashion Week

Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)
Models present creations by Chanel for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 5, 2024. (AFP)

In a cinematic homage blurring fashion and film, Chanel transported its audience at Paris Fashion Week to a fictional Deauville for its latest showcase. The black and white film of the Normandy seaside town, starring Brad Pitt and front-row observer Penelope Cruz, evoked Chanel’s roots. Fusing the 1920s heyday of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel with the drama of the ’70s, designer Virginie Viard recreated the founder’s wardrobe from the “winter sojourns by the sea.” Deauville changed the course of Chanel and arguably the Paris fashion industry.

Here are some highlights of fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear shows:

DEAUVILLE, THE MOVIE Pitt and Cruz, depicted in the idyllic town, captivated guests who watched the romance unfold on giant plasma screens, with scenes of beach frolics and bonding over an order of medium-rare Chateaubriand steaks. Deauville, which influenced Viard’s fall aesthetic with its floppy beach hats, played a pivotal role in Chanel's journey from licensed milliner to revolutionary designer.

“Deauville is where everything started for the house,” Viard said. It’s where Chanel drew inspiration from the world around her: the salty and striped uniforms of the fishermen, the speed of horses at the racetrack, the chic madames sunning on the sands.

“For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk,” Viard said, with chunky sailor sweaters, dressing gown-style belted coats and strong-shoulder peacoats. The colors evoked the hues of the town’s romantic skies with pinks, pale blue and oranges.

Despite the poetical musing and finely proportioned coats, the penchant for accessories sometimes distracted from the garments and, at times, muddied the clarity of Viard’s vision. The setting evoked memories of a past spectacle by Karl Lagerfeld, her flamboyant predecessor, known for transforming the Grand Palais into a real beach with actual water. Some attendees felt the décor, and the clothes, this time lacked vibrancy by comparison.

MIU MIU’S GROWING UP Miu Miu’s fall collection took a playful jab at the transition from childhood to adulthood. Miuccia Prada’s tongue-in-cheek little sister brand once again addressed profound themes through the lens of frivolity.

Cropped sleeves, rounded-toe shoes and pajamas with outerwear amid exaggeratedly shrunken proportions evoked the Tom Hanks movie “Big." Adulthood was seen as gloves and handbags, brooches, tailoring. The human condition, the pioneering designer seemed to say, was sometimes a fusion of both.

Miu Miu’s creations consistently embody a youthful spirit, merging elegance with playful defiance. This is evident in unexpected styling choices like pairing sometimes clashing classic pieces with undergarments or athletic wear, challenging traditional fashion norms.

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Fashion

Demna Dials Down Theatrics for a More Saleable Vision of Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week 

Jessica Alba upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (AP)
Jessica Alba upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (AP)
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Demna Dials Down Theatrics for a More Saleable Vision of Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week 

Jessica Alba upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (AP)
Jessica Alba upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (AP)

Balenciaga is no stranger to spectacle, and Demna has built his reputation on turning the ordinary into the extreme. But this season, the brand's it-designer pulled back, choosing precision over provocation. His Sunday fall collection at Paris Fashion Week, Standard, focused on familiar dress codes, subtly warped but never fully broken.

Was this a study in refinement, or — shockingly — a step toward the conventional for a man known for breaking molds?

The show took place in a dimly lit maze of black curtains at the Cour du Dôme des Invalides, giving a sense of movement without grand theatrics. The models stormed through the narrow pathways, inches from VIP guests Tyra Banks, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Jessica Alba, their stiletto-heeled stomp set to the brooding strains of Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata.

Businesswear was the foundation, with suits that alternated between crisp and intentionally crumpled. Denim pencil skirts, laced corset shirts, and long overcoats played with structure, while cocooned hoods and exaggerated lapels introduced a sculptural quality.

The impact, however, felt restrained. Silhouettes that once enveloped the body now followed a more familiar form. Sportswear, too, was tempered—tracksuits and bombers were leaner, and denim, usually one of Demna’s most manipulated materials, was given only slight modifications, treated to appear permanently wrinkled rather than wholly reimagined.

Absent were the shock elements of past seasons—no simulated disasters, no extreme exaggerations. Instead, the focus was on subtle transformations. For some, this marked a designer refining his vision; for others, it felt like a step away from the bold statements that defined his early Balenciaga years.

The Balenciaga x PUMA collaboration underscored this shift. While undoubtedly positioned for commercial success, its straightforward execution felt at odds with Demna’s usual approach to reworking streetwear. One reaction among critics pointed to its simplicity as a move toward accessibility rather than innovation.

More than ever, this collection seemed geared toward long-term retail appeal rather than shock-driven virality. While Demna has scaled back the provocation, the emphasis on businesswear, streamlined outerwear, and luxury-inflected sportswear suggests a strategic pivot toward a more commercially viable Balenciaga. The tailoring was clean, outerwear was softened, and layers leaned into versatility.

However, although some insiders pointed out how the reversed quarter-zip added an unexpected neckline shift, and a bathrobe-style coat blended casual ease with structured elegance—neither pushed the boundaries in the way past seasons have.

The collection may have been titled Standard, but it left an open question: Is Demna reshaping Balenciaga’s future, or settling into a more commonplace standard?