Italy Antitrust Probes Armani, Dior over Alleged Exploitation of Workers

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
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Italy Antitrust Probes Armani, Dior over Alleged Exploitation of Workers

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo

Italy's competition authority said on Wednesday it had begun an investigation into luxury fashion groups Armani and Dior over the alleged exploitation of workers in their supply chain.
In June and April, Milan prosecutors ordered that several Chinese-owned firms in Italy - producing luxury goods for Dior and Armani - be placed under administration, accusing them of systematically abusing their employees.
The regulator alleged that Armani and Dior "emphasized the craftmanship and the excellence of their workmanship" while relying on workshops employing people on inadequate salaries, working long hours and in violation of health and safety rules.
The probe focused on some companies of the Armani Group and the LVMH-controlled Dior Group, and inspections were carried out at the companies on Tuesday, Reuters quoted the agency as saying.
"The (Armani and Dior) companies may have made untrue ethical and social responsibility claims, in particular with regard to working conditions and compliance with legality at their suppliers," the antitrust agency said.
They were placed under investigation "for possible unlawful conduct in the promotion and sale of articles and clothing accessories, in breach of the (Italian) Consumer Code," it said.
Armani and LVMH did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
Breaches of the consumer code are punishable with fines ranging from 5,000 euros ($5,456) to 10 million euros ($10.91 million).
The luxury industry's supply chain has come under increased scrutiny by consumers and investors in recent years. To reduce risks to their reputation, fashion labels have curbed the number of sub-contractors and brought production in-house.
Italy's antitrust agency also polices consumer rights and unfair commercial practices. Last year, it fined companies owned by fashion influencer Chiara Ferragni almost 1.1 million euros over misleading charity claims on a Ferragni-branded Christmas cake.



Nike Sinks as Gloomy Sales Forecast Fans Growth Concerns

The Nike swoosh logo is seen outside the store on 5th Ave in New York, New York, US, March 19, 2019. (Reuters)
The Nike swoosh logo is seen outside the store on 5th Ave in New York, New York, US, March 19, 2019. (Reuters)
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Nike Sinks as Gloomy Sales Forecast Fans Growth Concerns

The Nike swoosh logo is seen outside the store on 5th Ave in New York, New York, US, March 19, 2019. (Reuters)
The Nike swoosh logo is seen outside the store on 5th Ave in New York, New York, US, March 19, 2019. (Reuters)

Nike shares slumped 15% premarket on Friday as a forecast for a surprise drop in annual sales amplified investor concerns about the pace of the sportswear giant's efforts to stem market share losses to upstart brands such as On and Hoka.

The company on Thursday projected a mid-single-digit percentage fall in fiscal 2025 revenue, compared to analysts' estimates of a near 1% rise, dragging shares of rivals and sportswear retailers across Europe, UK and US on Friday, Reuters reported.

British sportswear retailer JD Sports fell as much as 6.6% and Germany's Puma lost 4%, while Adidas was flat after briefly rising nearly 2%.

"Nike shares are headed for a stay in the proverbial penalty box until new product innovations actually start to manifest themselves and management regains investor trust," Wedbush analyst Tom Nikic said in a note.

To be sure, Nike has cut back on oversupplied brands including Air Force 1 to curb a worsening sales decline as part of a $2 billion cost-cutting plan launched late last year.

Nike is set to roll out this year an Air Max version and Pegasus 41 with full-length foam midsole made from ReactX to boost sustainability, responding to concerns over stagnating innovation.

The company was "also accelerating planned reductions for our three largest franchises ... while we have work to do, we are very focused on scaling the newness to offset this planned reduction," CEO John Donahoe said on a post-earnings call.

Newer sporting goods brands, including Hoka, Asics, New Balance and On, accounted for 35% of global market share in 2023 compared to the 20% held over the 2013-2020 period, according to a RBC research report released in June.

"They know where the problems are, but they're having trouble right now generating demand and it is going to be a transition period that is going to take some time in different markets," Morningstar analyst David Swartz said.

Nike's US market share in the sports footwear category fell to 34.97% in 2023 from 35.37% in 2022, and 35.40% in 2021, according to GlobalData.

At least six brokerages downgraded the stock and 15 cut their price targets on Nike.

Nike's shares were trading at 25.13 times profit estimates while On and Deckers were trading at 37.41 and 31.13 times earnings expectations.