Hugo Boss May Push Back 2025 Targets as Luxury Sector Falters

The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
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Hugo Boss May Push Back 2025 Targets as Luxury Sector Falters

The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP

Hugo Boss may push back key sales and profit targets beyond 2025 when it reports its second-quarter results on Thursday, as investors watch for updates on trading and cost-cutting plans.
Shares in the company fell as much as 10% in July as it cut its full-year sales and earnings forecasts, citing weakening global consumer demand, especially in China and Britain, said Reuters.
It warned in March that its target of reaching 5 billion euros ($5.4 billion) in annual revenues in 2025 might be delayed, but said it still expected its margin on earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) to reach at least 12% next year.
"Besides comments on current trading, which will be closely watched by investors, we would not rule out an update on Hugo Boss' mid-term targets," said Felix Jonathan Dennl, analyst at Metzler Capital Markets in Frankfurt.
Some analysts, including Dennl, expect Hugo Boss to hit its mid-term sales target two to three years later than originally forecast, and to reach its mid-term EBIT margin goal after 2028.
"If Hugo Boss can't provide more visibility, the revenue and EBIT targets should be in doubt," Alexander Zienkowicz, senior analyst at Mwb Research said.
In an average of estimates last updated ahead of the company's preliminary results in mid-July, analysts had forecast sales of 4.65 billion euros and an operating profit of 519 million for 2025, corresponding to an EBIT margin of 11%.
Cost cuts are also going to be in focus, said Joerg Philipp Frey, analyst at Warburg Research. He highlighted the company's 21% jump in marketing spend and higher brick-and-mortar retail expenses in the second quarter from a year earlier, in contrast with its quarterly sales decline.
The upmarket fashion brand has been on an expansion drive, increasing marketing spend and opening 102 new points of sale, including own stores, "shop-in-shops" and outlets, in 2023. It is trying to stem a slowdown in sales growth which has contributed to the company's shares almost halving in value this year.
"To lift the share price, it will be important for Hugo Boss to demonstrate effective management of the issues at hand and a credible path to recovery," Zienkowicz said.
The luxury sector is grappling with weaker sales and pressure on margins as inflation-hit shoppers hold off from splashing out on designer fashion. A property slump and job insecurity in China has exacerbated the problem.
Earnings from luxury companies this quarter have demonstrated the strains that the sector is under with both LVMH and rival Kering falling short of forecasts.



LVMH Shares Drop after Missing Second-quarter Estimates

A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
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LVMH Shares Drop after Missing Second-quarter Estimates

A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights

Shares in LVMH (LVMH.PA) fell as much as 6.5% in early Wednesday trade and were on track for their biggest one-day drop since October 2023 after second-quarter sales growth at the French luxury goods giant missed analysts' consensus estimate.

The world's biggest luxury group said late Tuesday its quarterly sales rose 1% year on year to 20.98 billion euros ($22.76 billion), undershooting the 21.6 billion expected on average by analysts polled by LSEG.

At 1000 GMT, LVMH's shares were down 4.5%.

The earnings miss weighed on other luxury stocks, with Hermes (HRMS.PA), down around 2% and Kering (PRTP.PA), off 3%.

Kering is scheduled to report second-quarter sales after the market close and Hermes reports on Thursday, Reuters reported.

Jittery investors are looking for evidence that the industry will pick up from a recent slowdown, as inflation-hit shoppers hold off from splashing out on designer fashion.

JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini cut full year profit forecasts by 2-3% for the group, citing softer trends at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division, home to Louis Vuitton and Dior.

"The soft print is likely to add to ongoing investors’ concerns on the sector more broadly in our view, confirming that even best-in-class players like LVMH cannot be immune from the challenging backdrop," said Battistini in a note to clients.

The weakness of the yen, which has prompted a flood of Chinese shoppers to Japan seeking bargains on luxury goods, added pressure to margins, another source of concern.

Equita cut 2024 sales estimates for LVMH by 3% - attributing 1% to currency fluctuations - and lowered its second half organic sales estimate to 7% growth from 10% growth previously.

The lack of visibility for the second half beyond the easing of comparative figures - as the Chinese post-pandemic lockdown bounce tapered off a year ago - is unlikely to improve investor sentiment to the luxury sector, Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said in an email to clients.

"No miracle with the luxury bellwether; sector likely to remain out of favour," he wrote.

Jefferies analysts said the miss came as investors eye Chinese shoppers for their potential to "resume their pre-COVID role as the locomotive of industry growth and debate when Western consumers will have fully digested their COVID overspend".

LVMH shares have been volatile since the luxury slowdown emerged, and are down about 20% over the past year, with middle-class shoppers in China, the world's No. 2 economy, a key focus as they rein in purchases at home amid a property slump and job insecurity.

LVMH offered some reassurance, with finance chief Jean-Jacques Guiony telling analysts during a call on Tuesday that Chinese customers were "holding up quite well," while business with US and European customers was "slightly better".