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Zalando to Open Tech Site in China

A woman walks past an Honor sign at the handset maker's headquarters in Shenzhen, Guangdong province, China August 4, 2024. REUTERS/David Kirton
A woman walks past an Honor sign at the handset maker's headquarters in Shenzhen, Guangdong province, China August 4, 2024. REUTERS/David Kirton
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Zalando to Open Tech Site in China

A woman walks past an Honor sign at the handset maker's headquarters in Shenzhen, Guangdong province, China August 4, 2024. REUTERS/David Kirton
A woman walks past an Honor sign at the handset maker's headquarters in Shenzhen, Guangdong province, China August 4, 2024. REUTERS/David Kirton

Zalando said on Tuesday it would open a new tech site in China's tech-hub Shenzhen, but it was not planning to expand its marketplace to China at this point in time.
The Chinese tech center would allow the German online fashion retailer to tap into local expertise in social commerce and integrate that with the company's knowledge of the European e-commerce market, finance chief Sandra Dembeck said on an investor call following Zalando's second-quarter results.
According to Zalando, Reuters said it currently had no plans to expand its e-commerce platform to China.
The company, which serves around 50 million active customers in 25 markets across Europe, has recently focused on higher-priced brands and sportswear as it competes with low-priced retailers such as Shein, introducing its own sports collection and launching sports brands such as Lululemon, Hoka, and On Running in recent quarters.
These premium sportswear brands are seeing robust growth in China, as health and wellness have become a priority for aspirational, middle class consumers since the pandemic, with many people taking up activities such as yoga, hiking and running for the first time.
"We are still focused on tapping into the growth opportunities that Europe has to offer and are sure that our tech site in China will contribute to achieve our goals," Zalando said in an email.

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Opens with Light, Ethereal Yet Grounded Looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni 

A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
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Milan Fashion Week Opens with Light, Ethereal Yet Grounded Looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni 

A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)

Just as the northern hemisphere starts the wardrobe transition from summer to fall, runway shows in the world’s fashion capitals seek to stir the imagination, and desire, for the next warm weather season.

Milan designers have been ambiguous about seasons in recent fashion weeks, with summer collections not corresponding to the soaring temperatures. That was not the case during the first day of Milan Fashion Week previews on Tuesday, featuring diaphanous, dreamy summery dresses, alongside crisp cotton.

Here are highlights from the first day of Milan Fashion Week of runway previews of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025:

Fendi centenary

Fendi honored its upcoming centenary with a Spring-Summer 2025 collection that paid elegant homage to the founding era, from art deco detailing to a flapper silhouette, light on the fringe.

In snippets of conversation that punctuated the show’s soundtrack, Silvia Venturini Fendi emphasized the matriarchal lineage that has made her the third generation to play a key Fendi role. “My mother was the energy of the house,” Venturini Fendi recalled.

The collection by Fendi womenswear artistic director Kim Jones sought to spotlight “100 years of very chic Roman women,” combining ready-to-wear with artisanal detailing of couture. Diaphanous dresses with art-deco embroidery were grounded with boots. Slip dresses were turned upside down as skirts, worn with a sheer top embellished with crystals. Knitwear defined the silhouette, under sheers or hugging the body over diaphanous trousers.

Bags by Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories, were soft and huggable, often carried in triplicate.

Ferretti’s artisanal summer

Alberta Ferretti showed her summery creations in the courtyard of a former cloister, now a science museum, with an elegant dome rising in the background, the juxtaposition emphasizing the artisanal heritage in her collection.

Instead of embellishments, Ferretti focused on technique. Laser cut cotton created an almost lace effect. Individual cotton leaves were stitched together as dresses or accents on bodices. Pleating elevated dresses, while boxer shorts gave a casual flair.

The day looks were in earthy tones of sand, ecru and black. For evening, chiffon dresses flowed in bright shades.

“They are real summer clothes, because the world in the summer is very warm. I know a show is supposed to be a show but reality is important,” Ferretti said backstage.

Marni’s essential beauty

Marni maintained its zany heritage under creative director Francesco Risso, with a wardrobe of whimsically tailored everyday looks for him and for her.

The female silhouette was swathed in form-fitting dresses and skirts, often with deep back slits, sometimes with a mermaid flair. Feathers, boas and crystal embellishments were pretty, and sometimes off-beat accents.

For him, broad shouldered jackets contrasted with skinny trousers. An off-skew bow on a chiffony blouson was kept aloft through some sartorial trickery.

Mixing art with fashion, models emerged in threes, and wandered through the showroom full of wooden chairs on conversational groups to a percussive piano trio.

A sense of Marni whimsy permeated the collection, partly but not only through a series of hats with a yesteryear military flair made light with feathery accents. Risso appeared to confirm his Napoleonic intentions, taking a bow with his hand thrust inside his jacket.

“We like things that are bold,” Risso said after the show.