Zara Owner Inditex Says Autumn Sales Stronger After First-Half Growth Slowdown 

A woman carries a bag from Spanish multinational retail clothing chain Zara, the flagship brand of the Inditex clothing company, in the Gran Via of Bilbao, Spain, March 12, 2024. (Reuters)
A woman carries a bag from Spanish multinational retail clothing chain Zara, the flagship brand of the Inditex clothing company, in the Gran Via of Bilbao, Spain, March 12, 2024. (Reuters)
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Zara Owner Inditex Says Autumn Sales Stronger After First-Half Growth Slowdown 

A woman carries a bag from Spanish multinational retail clothing chain Zara, the flagship brand of the Inditex clothing company, in the Gran Via of Bilbao, Spain, March 12, 2024. (Reuters)
A woman carries a bag from Spanish multinational retail clothing chain Zara, the flagship brand of the Inditex clothing company, in the Gran Via of Bilbao, Spain, March 12, 2024. (Reuters)

Zara owner Inditex reported on Wednesday stronger recent sales of its first autumn-winter collections after posting a slowdown in sales growth in the first half of the year that was in line with analysts' expectations.

The fashion giant said its sales between Aug. 1 and Sept. 8 saw an 11% boost in constant currency compared with a year ago. In the first half, sales growth had slowed to 7.2% from 13.5% in the same period the prior year.

The world's biggest listed fashion retailer reported a 10% rise in first-half profit amid tougher times for fashion retailers in Europe, partly due to a wet and cold June in its biggest market, Spain. Despite those headwinds, Inditex posted net income of 2.8 billion euros ($3.09 billion) and sales of 18.1 billion euros in its first half ending in July.

Analysts polled by LSEG had expected a profit of 2.77 billion euros based on 18 billion euros in sales.

The company reported a gross margin of 58.3% for the period. Analysts from HSBC, RBC, JPMorgan and Bestinver had forecast Zara's sales growth would rebound into the double digits in the first five weeks of its third quarter beginning in August after the poor weather in June dashed Zara's initial expectations of a bumper second quarter.

The fashion company has fought to stay ahead of competitors such as H&M and fast-growing Chinese rival Shein by investing in logistics and technology to deliver fashion trends faster and making an effort to minimize price increases on everyday items.

Zara hiked prices more slowly than in the past in the second quarter and less than H&M in the United States, its second-biggest market, according to retail analytics firm EDITED.

Prices for women's jeans at Zara were 2% higher than a year ago, while the average price of jeans at H&M increased by 8%, EDITED added.

H&M said June sales were likely to fall 6% in local currencies versus a year earlier, partly due to worse weather in many markets, while the wet weather in Britain also hit summer sales at Primark.

"I don't look at stocks with a short-term horizon. (On) a three-to-five year view, Inditex is the best fashion retailer in the whole brick-and-mortar space, as well as online," said fund manager Vera Diehl of Union Investment, who considers Inditex's gap with H&M and Shein has widened.

"The company takes long-term strategic decisions," Diehl added. Inditex said Zara will offer live shopping broadcasts in key markets such as Spain, the US, France, Italy, Germany, Britain, Ireland, the Netherlands and Canada in the coming weeks, following the format's launch in the Chinese market in November 2023.

Zara's parent company, which also owns the Pull&Bear, Bershka and Massimo Duti brands, is expanding in the US, enlarging and relocating stores and investing 900 million euros per year through 2025 on new logistics centers in Spain and the Netherlands.



Valentino Unit Put Under Court Administration in Italy over Labor Exploitation

Designer Valentino shoes are seen on display at the Nordstrom flagship store during a media preview in New York, US, October 21, 2019. REUTERS/Shannon Stapleton/File Photo
Designer Valentino shoes are seen on display at the Nordstrom flagship store during a media preview in New York, US, October 21, 2019. REUTERS/Shannon Stapleton/File Photo
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Valentino Unit Put Under Court Administration in Italy over Labor Exploitation

Designer Valentino shoes are seen on display at the Nordstrom flagship store during a media preview in New York, US, October 21, 2019. REUTERS/Shannon Stapleton/File Photo
Designer Valentino shoes are seen on display at the Nordstrom flagship store during a media preview in New York, US, October 21, 2019. REUTERS/Shannon Stapleton/File Photo

An Italian court on Thursday placed under judicial administration a company owned by fashion group Valentino for subcontracting its production to Chinese-owned firms that allegedly exploited workers.

The court in Milan ordered a one-year administration for Valentino Bags Lab Srl, which makes Valentino-branded handbags and travel articles, according to the 30-page ruling seen by Reuters.

The administration will be lifted earlier if the company brings its practices into line with legal requirements.

The court said Valentino Bags Lab "culpably failed" to adequately oversee its suppliers in order to pursue higher profits.

Neither Valentino nor Valentino Bags Lab could be immediately reached for comment.

French fashion group Kering bought a 30% stake of the Italian brand in 2023 from Qatari investment fund Mayhoola, with an option to purchase the whole of its share capital by 2028.

Valentino Bags Lab is the fourth fashion company to be targeted by the same Milan court over similar labor issues since December 2023, following an Italian unit of French luxury giant LVMH's Dior, Italy's Armani, and Alviero Martini, an Italian handbag company.

The Milan court lifted the judicial administration it placed on these three companies before the end of the one-year deadline imposed on them.

The judges wrote in their ruling that despite the previous cases being widely reported "Valentino Bags Lab kept operating with suppliers who exploit workers and use labor in violation of safety regulations, without in any way increasing its control systems".

The prosecutors in the case said the violation of rules among fashion companies in Italy was "a generalized and consolidated manufacturing method".

Italy is home to thousands of small manufacturers that cover 50%-55% of global luxury goods production, consultancy Bain has calculated.

DAY-NIGHT PRODUCTION

In the latest case, Carabinieri police from the Milan labor protection unit inspected seven Chinese-owned workshops around Italy's financial capital from March to December 2024, including one of the firms involved in the Dior case last year.

They identified 67 workers, of whom nine were completely off the books. Three of these were irregular immigrants.

Workers were made to sleep in the workplace in order to have "manpower available 24 hours a day," according to the ruling.

It said data mapping electricity consumption showed "seamless day-night production cycles, including during the holidays". In addition, safety devices had been removed from the machinery to allow them to operate faster, it said.

One of the contractors, Bags Milano Srl, has had Valentino Bags Lab as its sole purchaser since 2018, commissioning around 4,000 bags per month, with production costs ranging from 35-75 euros ($39.20-$84) per bag, judicial sources said.

These bags were then sold to customers at prices ranging from 1,900 to 2,200 euros, according to two judicial sources.

The judges said the owner of Bags Milano subcontracted the production of some of the Valentino bags to other Chinese-owned workshops.

The owners of the contracting and subcontracting companies are under investigation by Milan prosecutors for exploiting workers and employing people off the books. Valentino Bags Lab itself faces no criminal probe.

Investigations by Italian magistrates have over the last years exposed alleged exploitation of workers in the fashion and luxury supply chain.

Milan's court proposed in June 2024 a scheme under which luxury firms should strengthen checks on suppliers to ensure they respect labor laws.