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Bold Looks Among Boulders at Michael Kors’ New York Fashion Week Show 

A model walks the runway during the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 10, 2024. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 10, 2024. (AFP)
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Bold Looks Among Boulders at Michael Kors’ New York Fashion Week Show 

A model walks the runway during the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 10, 2024. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 10, 2024. (AFP)

Fashion sometimes involves risk and designer Michael Kors would tell you some risks aren’t worth taking. Last year, his September show was held outside and the weather did not cooperate, so he decided his spring/summer 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week would bring nature inside instead.

Kors and his team created a unique runway in a cavernous raw space in a midtown building, with stark metal benches lining the rectangular walls and gigantic faux black rocks scattered in the center and sides, similar to the rocky beaches of the Amalfi Coast. The drama of Italian cliffs in an urban setting was part of Kors’ abstract inspiration.

Kors says he’s “glued” to pop culture and was especially fascinated by the recent Netflix series “Ripley,” based on Patricia Highsmith’s classic novel, “The Talented Mr. Ripley.” The dark story is set in coastal Italy where a man who covets a friend’s wealthy life kills him and takes over his identity, killing anyone else who threatens his new persona.

“Seeing this romantic, moody, dark story shot all in black and white, I thought it brought something very different to the romance of it,” Kors told The Associated Press backstage before the show. “There was this sort of dark side of romance that’s not sweet, not insipid, and mysterious. And then also, this is my 35th anniversary of working with Italian artisans and I really wanted to play up all of the incredible tailors and craftspeople in Italy.”

The result was a show that used stark lighting and a haunting instrumental score to set the mood for a lot of black and white and muted colors with looks that evoke Ripley’s 1950’s hybrid style of city and resortwear.

“There’s lots of texture, black raffia, white embroideries. Everything is very tactile,” Kors explained. “It’s all the colors that you would find in the Mediterranean. So all of the natural colors have very soft browns and creams. And then of course, there’s going to be blue.”

The brand’s craftsmanship was on display with intricate peekaboo lace dresses and skirts and several dresses, skirts and coats adorned with flower applique’. Accessories stood out in the collection with leather handbags, hats and shoes teeming with black raffia that looked like leather straw. Nearly every look had a belt — some styled loosely but extra-long and knotted to dangle, and others wide and tight at the waist. The ever-present trench coat appeared for men and women on the runway, mostly oversized and slouchy.

This season’s shows brought guests and media to all corners of the city and surroundings, showing off its beauty and designers’ creativity — from a horse ranch in the tony Hamptons for Ralph Lauren, to a giant ferry boat docked on the East River for Tommy Hilfiger, to an old Domino sugar factory in Brooklyn for Tory Burch.

The show’s front row was packed with celebrities, including Kerry Washington, Mary J. Blige, Shailene Woodley, Mindy Kaling, and Lindsay Lohan.

“I’m always really inspired by the simplicity, the craftsmanship. He has a real kind of a love for women that is so kind of understated, but just so consistent,” Olivia Wilde said. “I always feel so beautiful in his clothes.”

Suki Waterhouse was wearing a pink lace Kors dress and matching fluffy coat. “The straw shoes with the matching bag was my absolute favorite,” the actor and recording artist said after the show. “I need to book a holiday to be able to wear those things.”

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Fashion

French Parliament Adopts Bill to Regulate Fast Fashion

This photograph shows the logo of Asian e-commerce giant Shein in its stall at the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (BHV) department store in Paris on November 4, 2025, on the eve of the opening of its first physical store at BHV in Paris. (AFP)
This photograph shows the logo of Asian e-commerce giant Shein in its stall at the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (BHV) department store in Paris on November 4, 2025, on the eve of the opening of its first physical store at BHV in Paris. (AFP)
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French Parliament Adopts Bill to Regulate Fast Fashion

This photograph shows the logo of Asian e-commerce giant Shein in its stall at the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (BHV) department store in Paris on November 4, 2025, on the eve of the opening of its first physical store at BHV in Paris. (AFP)
This photograph shows the logo of Asian e-commerce giant Shein in its stall at the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (BHV) department store in Paris on November 4, 2025, on the eve of the opening of its first physical store at BHV in Paris. (AFP)

The French parliament on Monday passed a bill aimed at curbing the rise of fast fashion, targeting major Asian e-commerce platforms, such as Shein and Temu.

The legislation, first tabled two-and-a-half years ago, seeks to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" companies, known for selling large volumes of lower quality clothing at rock-bottom price.

Easy to order and replace, fast fashion items contribute to pollution from the textile industry, which accounts for nearly 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.

The Senate passed the bill Monday after the lower house National Assembly did last week.

It imposes a per-item fee for producing textile en masse that will increase over time, and a ban on advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands, including by social media influencers.

Lawmakers hope to rein in Asian e-commerce companies that have exploded in popularity in France in recent years.

Trade Minister Serge Papin last week said the bill would target the main players, including three companies, which he said are driving the surge in ultra-fast fashion.

"Their names, which were still unknown three years ago... are now on everyone's lips in France: Temu, Shein and AliExpress," he said at the time.

But some have criticized the legislation for sparing European and French companies, such as Zara and Kiabi, with some leftist lawmakers in both chambers abstaining during the vote.

Green Party lawmaker Charles Fournier said last week the original bill had been "considerably scaled back", arguing that brands, such as Zara and H&M "have not become models of sustainable fashion".

Stop Fast Fashion, a coalition of organizations, also criticized what it called as a "greatly watered-down" version compared to the one originally put forward.

- Advertising ban doubts -

Anne-Cecile Violland, the center-right member of parliament who proposed the bill, said they needed legislation that could be passed "very quickly and be operational".

"We're coming down very hard on Shein, and that's the first step," she told AFP, adding she understood the disappointment.

The legislation targets ultra-fast fashion based on two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price.

The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each brand scores on both these standards.

The levy could reach up to 20 euros ($23) per item by 2030, though the cap remains at 50 percent of the product's pre-tax price.

Part of these penalties will go towards collection and recycling infrastructure.

The legislation also requires ultra-fast fashion companies to display messages on their websites promoting more moderate consumption, including reusing and repairing clothing.

A ban on advertising, including by influencers, is a central plank of the bill, though questions remain over how it could be enforced.

Fashion

Osaka Makes Spectacular Wimbledon Arrival in Kimono-Inspired Dress

Japan's Naomi Osaka arrives to play against France's Elsa Jacquemot during their women's singles first round tennis match on the first day of the 2026 Wimbledon Championships at The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in Wimbledon, southwest London, on June 29, 2026. (AFP)
Japan's Naomi Osaka arrives to play against France's Elsa Jacquemot during their women's singles first round tennis match on the first day of the 2026 Wimbledon Championships at The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in Wimbledon, southwest London, on June 29, 2026. (AFP)
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Osaka Makes Spectacular Wimbledon Arrival in Kimono-Inspired Dress

Japan's Naomi Osaka arrives to play against France's Elsa Jacquemot during their women's singles first round tennis match on the first day of the 2026 Wimbledon Championships at The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in Wimbledon, southwest London, on June 29, 2026. (AFP)
Japan's Naomi Osaka arrives to play against France's Elsa Jacquemot during their women's singles first round tennis match on the first day of the 2026 Wimbledon Championships at The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in Wimbledon, southwest London, on June 29, 2026. (AFP)

Japan's Naomi Osaka made a spectacular entrance at Wimbledon on Monday as she arrived on court in a kimono-inspired dress.

Osaka has become known for wearing flamboyant outfits before starting her matches and the four-time Grand Slam champion's Wimbledon costume was eagerly-awaited.

With fans and photographers crowded around Court Three prior to her Wimbledon first-round match against France's Elsa Jacquemot, Osaka didn't disappoint.

To match the All England Club's strict all-white dress code, the 28-year-old wore a kimono-style ceremonial dress decorated with embroidered cranes and cherry blossom.

She paired the white outfit with a traditional kanzashi hair ornament featuring white flowers before removing both to reveal a white Nike dress.

While much more conventional, the dress is inspired by kirigami, the Japanese art of paper cutting.

Osaka has worked with a range of fashion designers on her outfits, going for a jellyfish-modelled look at the Australian Open dedicated to her daughter Shai and a gold dress inspired by the Eiffel Tower at the French Open.

For Wimbledon, the former world number one collaborated with Japanese designer Hana Yagi, posting a video accompanied by the caption: "Culture".

Speaking to British Vogue, Osaka said: "I like to use fashion as a medium for storytelling.

"Every walk-out is an opportunity to bring people into my creative world. The fact that people care about it and are excited to see what's next is also pretty cool.

"Obviously, the outfit has to be white, but, aside from that, you can play with a lot of different design elements. In some ways, not having to think about the color allows you to highlight other cool features like fabrics and textures."

Osaka's longtime creative director Marty Harper said Wimbledon's traditions played a key role in the design of the outfit.

"It's one of the few places in sport where ceremony still feels inseparable from competition. We wanted to acknowledge that while creating a dialogue with Japanese ceremonial dress," he said.

"The starting point was the idea of evolving ceremony. The garment is constructed from vintage shiromuku, ceremonial garments originally created to mark important moments in people's lives."

Fashion

Heat Catches Europe’s Fashion Industry Unprepared as Models Face the Sun in Fur and Wool

A model presents a creation for Dior for the Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on June 24, 2026. (AFP)
A model presents a creation for Dior for the Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on June 24, 2026. (AFP)
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Heat Catches Europe’s Fashion Industry Unprepared as Models Face the Sun in Fur and Wool

A model presents a creation for Dior for the Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on June 24, 2026. (AFP)
A model presents a creation for Dior for the Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on June 24, 2026. (AFP)

The most coveted accessory at the Paris Fashion Week shows this week was not a bag, a sneaker or a watch. It was an ice pack.

As a historic heat wave gripped the French capital, fashion houses fought to keep guests cool with mist machines, chilled towels, parasols and iced Evian on silver platters.

It wasn’t enough. Historic venues sweltered, guests were packed in tight, air conditioning was absent or inadequate and water ran short — at one house, organizers weighed serving none at all, having found only plastic bottles to hand out.

That mattered because Paris Fashion Week is not a minor cultural event.

It is one of France’s most visible export machines: six fashion seasons a year, global luxury houses, celebrities, editors, buyers and clients moving through an industry worth billions, often inside aging venues built for a cooler age.

This week raised a harder question: whether Paris should keep staging menswear and haute couture in the height of summer at all if climate change keeps bringing more frequent and intense heat waves.

“I honestly thought I was going to pass out,” said Ben Freeman, a London-based fashion critic from Australia.

Paris neared 41 degrees Celsius (106 Fahrenheit) during a heat wave that pushed France into emergency mode. Large parts of the country were under red alert, and hospitals were told to prepare for more heat-related cases.

Like the dusty Louvre, which cut hours and said its historic building “remains vulnerable and is not sufficiently adapted to climate change,” fashion week exposed a Paris problem as much as a fashion one: how to keep prestige institutions running when the weather no longer fits the building, the calendar or the crowd.

“Paris Fashion Week is the canary in the mine,” Freeman said.

The deeper contradiction was on the runway. At a Paris Fashion Week Men’s where the industry paid to imagine next summer could barely survive this one, houses cooled the people watching the shows, then dressed their models in unseasonable leather, neoprene, wool and fur.

“The calendar does not make any sense,” acknowledged Dior’s Jonathan Anderson, blaming fractured delivery cycles and a business that bears no relation to the season outside.

Some in the front row suggested that fashion week in the hottest months be scrapped.

“In Paris we don’t have AC everywhere, it’s quite rare,” said Thomas Levy, 24, a fashion student outside one show. “I don’t know how the models did it this week in some of the leather and knit coats."

The venues couldn’t cope

Pascal Morand, who heads France’s fashion federation, said organizers were following the government’s heat-wave plan.

“We are conscious of the challenges and very attentive to preserving the Fashion Week experience in this context of structural change,” he told The Associated Press.

The cause ran deeper — an industry whose fixed parts, from the buildings to the clothes, were designed for a cooler world and a customer who lives somewhere else.

The response included earlier shows, more water, more mist, more shade.

Fashion had already been warned about heat management. In March, Celine built an okoumé-wood pavilion in the courtyard of the Institut de France for a winter show, packed guests inside and still saw some leave because of the temperature.

Dior shifted its show to 9 a.m. from mid-afternoon, and Rick Owens moved his forward too. Yet inside Dior’s half-renovated mansion, water was scarce, there was no air conditioning, and some guests looked ready to pass out.

The strain had already shown at Milan Fashion Week last week. At Thom Browne’s first show there, giant misting fans ran and black umbrellas went out as guests waited out the midday sun.

Runways out of season

The clothes were made not for summer in Paris but for global markets and customers who pass the hottest months in refrigerated air. For them, a wool coat in June is not a contradiction. It is just a purchase.

Louis Vuitton presented wetsuits in neoprene, as well as coats in cashmere and fur.

At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello sent models through cooling clouds of vapor from a Fujiko Nakaya fog sculpture, then ran hot and cold at once: featherweight, unlined tailoring stripped down for the heat, against leather briefs, choker scarves and transparent shoes fogging with the wearer’s sweat.

Issey Miyake’s IM Men gave the clearest practical answer, handing out ice packs at the door, then bamboo-thread fabrics and shadowy prints that moved with the air rather than against it.

Rick Owens made the anxiety literal, sending models through mist in garments with fans whirring inside. One critic called it metaphor for climate catastrophe.

France’s uneasy cooling debate

Air conditioning remains culturally suspect in France — blamed for sore throats, dismissed as wasteful or bad for the planet — even as heat waves turn cooling into a question of public safety.

President Emmanuel Macron’s government leans toward shade, insulation and trees; environmentalists warn that mass cooling would only deepen the emissions driving the heat.

Europe is the fastest-warming continent, but its old cities are short on the cooling a hotter climate demands. From sport to tourism to construction, industries built around fixed calendars and outdoor crowds are being forced to adapt to heat that comes earlier, lasts longer and climbs higher.

The question is how much longer an aging 19th century Paris can host a summer spectacle where guests need ice packs to reach the finale.