Kenzo Finds Its Groove in a Playful, Nostalgic Turn at Paris Fashion Week 

Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)
Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)
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Kenzo Finds Its Groove in a Playful, Nostalgic Turn at Paris Fashion Week 

Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)
Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)

Kenzo brought an electrifying jolt to Paris Fashion Week with a collection that blended nostalgia, cultural exchange and sharp tailoring under the leadership of Nigo.

With the graffiti artist Futura as a collaborator, the collection offered a fresh take on the brand’s signature aesthetic, fusing archival motifs with urban edge. The creative partnership channeled decades of shared influences, layering Kenzo’s heritage with the raw energy of 1990s street culture.

Bold patterns and thoughtful craftsmanship defined the runway. Futura’s iconic atom logo appeared reimagined with Kenzo’s florals on bombers, wide-leg pants, and tailored jackets.

Accessories, inspired by everyday objects like shopping bags and bouquet wraps, played with Japanese calligraphy and nostalgic cultural tags, adding tactile depth to the collection. These pieces reflected the era of cross-cultural exchange between Tokyo and New York, a key theme throughout the show.

The collection unveiled on Friday also showcased archival references with a contemporary twist. Train motifs, a nod to Kenzo’s late 1990s designs, appeared on suits and outerwear, while refined paisleys were integrated into modern workwear.

Weathered denim and six-button jackets brought a touch of sophistication to the nostalgic energy, blending vintage charm with precise tailoring. The collection’s footwear — chunky loafers and revisited Mary Janes — added playful contrast, grounding the designs in an approachable yet avant-garde aesthetic.

The atmosphere in the venue echoed the creative energy on display, with notable guests from fashion and music worlds contributing to the buzz.



Elie Saab’s Couture Escapism Finds a New Edge in Paris

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
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Elie Saab’s Couture Escapism Finds a New Edge in Paris

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

The sounds of spring, with babbling brooks and birdsong, set a serene yet surreal tone Wednesday as Elie Saab unveiled his latest couture collection inside the soaring Palais de Tokyo in Paris. It was punctuated only by whoops and clicking camera shutters as Eva Longoria swept in.

While the setting evoked pastoral bliss, the collection was a study in high-drama couture, as Saab’s signature opulence met a new architectural precision.

This season, the Lebanese designer, a red carpet mainstay, tempered his signature cascades of embroidery with an almost armor-like structure. Sweeping architectural flourishes curved around shoulders and hips, recalling the grandeur of Art Deco but with a modern sheen. Geometric bands of sparkles reinforced the sculptural intent, carving out silhouettes that felt more commanding than Saab’s typical fluid romance, The AP reported.

Models emerged on three parallel runways framed by classical white arches, wearing gowns dripping with jewels and embroidered feathers that echoed foliage. The effect was cinematic, an invitation into a world of 1920s glamour — Gatsby decadence reimagined with Saab’s unerring eye for fantasy. But in a world of uncertainty, the excess took on a different weight, a reminder that fashion has long been a glittering escape from reality.

Saab’s touchstone aesthetic — luxurious embellishment, silhouette-flattering cuts and red carpet allure — was intact, but there was an added sense of structure, a couture boldness that gave the collection its edge. The designer has never strayed far from his core of femininity and grandeur, yet here was a whisper of something stronger: a woman draped in fantasy, but armored for the future.