Elie Saab’s Couture Escapism Finds a New Edge in Paris

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
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Elie Saab’s Couture Escapism Finds a New Edge in Paris

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring- (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

The sounds of spring, with babbling brooks and birdsong, set a serene yet surreal tone Wednesday as Elie Saab unveiled his latest couture collection inside the soaring Palais de Tokyo in Paris. It was punctuated only by whoops and clicking camera shutters as Eva Longoria swept in.

While the setting evoked pastoral bliss, the collection was a study in high-drama couture, as Saab’s signature opulence met a new architectural precision.

This season, the Lebanese designer, a red carpet mainstay, tempered his signature cascades of embroidery with an almost armor-like structure. Sweeping architectural flourishes curved around shoulders and hips, recalling the grandeur of Art Deco but with a modern sheen. Geometric bands of sparkles reinforced the sculptural intent, carving out silhouettes that felt more commanding than Saab’s typical fluid romance, The AP reported.

Models emerged on three parallel runways framed by classical white arches, wearing gowns dripping with jewels and embroidered feathers that echoed foliage. The effect was cinematic, an invitation into a world of 1920s glamour — Gatsby decadence reimagined with Saab’s unerring eye for fantasy. But in a world of uncertainty, the excess took on a different weight, a reminder that fashion has long been a glittering escape from reality.

Saab’s touchstone aesthetic — luxurious embellishment, silhouette-flattering cuts and red carpet allure — was intact, but there was an added sense of structure, a couture boldness that gave the collection its edge. The designer has never strayed far from his core of femininity and grandeur, yet here was a whisper of something stronger: a woman draped in fantasy, but armored for the future.



Birkin Bag Maker Hermes End of Year Sales Jump

A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)
A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)
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Birkin Bag Maker Hermes End of Year Sales Jump

A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)
A Mimosa Matte Mississippiensis Alligator Birkin handbag by Hermes is pictured during an auction preview at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, November 7, 2024. (Reuters)

French luxury group Hermes reported an 18% rise in fourth quarter sales on Friday, showing robust appetite from wealthy shoppers for the most expensive luxury items like its Birkin bags, which cost upwards of $10,000.

Hermes continues to outshine rivals like LVMH and Kering-owned Gucci thanks to its wealthier customers as the industry suffers its slowest sales in years. Global luxury sales fell around 2% last year, hurt by a property crisis crimping spending in China and inflation-weary shoppers elsewhere.

"We are celebrating an excellent year, in a tougher environment," Axel Dumas, executive chairman, told journalists on a call.

Sales for the fourth quarter came to 3.96 billion euros ($4.14 billion), an 18% rise at constant exchange rates, accelerating in the important end of year period, with the fastest growth in the Americas and Japan.

The growth beat analyst expectations for a 10% rise, according to a Visible Alpha consensus cited by UBS.

The Hermes leather goods and saddlery division, which accounts for nearly half of group revenue, grew the fastest, up 21.5%. Analysts had expected a rise of 13%.

The double-digit growth at Hermes contrasts with LVMH's 1% rise over the last three months of the year.

Hermes also reported 9% growth in sales in the Asia region excluding Japan, the label's biggest market, despite the downturn in traffic in Greater China seen since the end of the first quarter of 2024.

Dumas added, however, that it was "too early to see an inflection" in the industry, despite some positive signs.

Hermes is known for its tight grip on production, sticking to an annual increase of around 6-7% a year, with order backlogs cushioning it from falling demand while holding up the label's exclusive aura.

Sales in the Americas region clocked 22.3% growth, matching growth in Japan.

Asked about the impact from potential US tariffs on European goods, Dumas said the company would not adjust its production.

"We are attached to keeping our production where it is," he said, citing France for leather goods, Switzerland for watches and Italy for shoes.

"We'll adapt to tariffs, and raise prices accordingly," he added.

The company is raising prices 6-7% this year to reflect higher production costs and exchange rates, Dumas added.