Tory Burch not only put her own twist on American sportswear in her new fall/winter collection at New York Fashion Week — she made it “twist-ed,” with exaggerated shapes and details, a splashy backdrop and memorable music.
Known for her classic lines and splashes of color against neutral tones, Burch says her inspiration for Monday’s show was “twisted American sportswear,” her way of taking expected pieces and adding unconventional details and pairings.
“It was sort of a literal and figurative take on the word ‘twisting.’ I loved the idea that sportswear was created in America,” Burch told The Associated Press after the show.
“I ... wanted it to give people the ability to have a second glance when you look at something. It has more depth than when you first perceived what it would be. And whether that’s in the luxurious yarn that you use or the sophistication of an interesting cut line and drape ... It was an exploration of that — of how do you twist things that make it more desirable?”
The collection featured layers galore, with sweaters draped on top of coats and button downs peeking from underneath sweaters, with an oversized blazer on top. Other standout looks included reimagined track pants, made in brushed wool and cotton, paired with blazers and sweaters.
Several utilitarian short jackets had multiple pockets, which Burch called “handbag jackets,” in black leather, denim, and one in fire engine red, paired with a brown skirt.
Some jackets and button-down shirts had exaggerated sleeves and cuffs, that hung loosely on the models like dad’s sportscoat. A series of textured velvet and jersey dresses with draping in muted colors could be dressed up or down.
Burch loves a little drama in her shows and always chooses venues that make a statement. She said she felt “very fortunate” to be showing at New York’s Museum of Modern Art.
“I’ve come here for my whole life and I’ve always loved MoMA and it’s just a miracle to me. It’s like the quintessential perfect space in New York.”
The runway was in two separate spaces connected by a giant staircase the models descended during the show. Some guests were seated on metal benches on the top of the two-story space and others were below in a stark white room with one wall of windows facing the street, and another a giant video screen showing skewed camera angles of the models walking and guests watching the show, giving off very big brother vibes.
The eerie soundtrack added to the experience — starting out with a booming techno beat. There were few if any lyrics, and instead a woman was heard giggling – sometimes maniacally. “It’s a bit twisted,” Burch said of the music with a smile. “You didn’t know if she was laughing or crying.”
Stars who attended the Burch show Amanda Seyfried, Jodie Turner-Smith, and Alexandra Daddario shared a bench with singer-songwriter Ciara and media icon Martha Stewart.
“Industry” star Myha’la said of Burch's collection: “It really exuded female strength, which I love."
Singer-songwriter-actor Charlotte Lawrence said she loved all the details in the show. “You can tell when a designer loves women, and obviously Tory does and knows how to dress women in a very elegant way that I believe ... sets a kind of blueprint of how to carry yourself with strength and confidence.”
