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Burberry Winter Collection Draws on British Country Homes, Equestrian Styles

Elizabeth McGovern displays a creation from Burberry during their Fall/Winter 2025/26 show, as part of London Fashion Week, on Monday, Feb. 24, 2025, in London. (Photo by Joel C Ryan/Invision/AP)
Elizabeth McGovern displays a creation from Burberry during their Fall/Winter 2025/26 show, as part of London Fashion Week, on Monday, Feb. 24, 2025, in London. (Photo by Joel C Ryan/Invision/AP)
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Burberry Winter Collection Draws on British Country Homes, Equestrian Styles

Elizabeth McGovern displays a creation from Burberry during their Fall/Winter 2025/26 show, as part of London Fashion Week, on Monday, Feb. 24, 2025, in London. (Photo by Joel C Ryan/Invision/AP)
Elizabeth McGovern displays a creation from Burberry during their Fall/Winter 2025/26 show, as part of London Fashion Week, on Monday, Feb. 24, 2025, in London. (Photo by Joel C Ryan/Invision/AP)

Burberry's winter 2025 collection, presented on Monday at London's Tate Britain museum, drew on country estates and featured leather trench coats, velvet brocade suits and equestrian styles like jodhpur trousers and high leather boots.
A star-studded cast including Naomi Campbell, actors Lesley Manville, Richard E Grant and Elizabeth McGovern, and Lila Moss, daughter of supermodel Kate Moss modelled creative director Daniel Lee's fifth collection for the British brand.
It is the second show since CEO Joshua Schulman took the reins at Burberry and began implementing a new strategy focused on outerwear, scarves, and marketing the brand's British heritage in a bid to turn sales around.
The catwalk was carpeted in bright blue, a color Lee has made his trademark at Burberry, and the museum's neoclassical architecture was complemented by drapes with an impressionist print inspired by great British landscape artists.
The collection's color palette of warm browns, greys, and taupe also evoked the British countryside, with some red and yellow accents, Reuters reported.
Jacquard-woven trenches and brocade jackets were inspired by the tapestries and wallpaper of stately homes, with silk pyjama shirts and trousers evoking domesticity.
"It's that great Friday night exodus from London to the countryside for long rainy walks and to disconnect in the great outdoors," Lee said of his inspiration for the collection.
Accessories included oversized scarves with chunky fringes and leather boots featuring Burberry's signature check.
In keeping with its renewed emphasis on scarves, Burberry sent each guest a dark green and navy check scarf along with their invitation.
Burberry's was the closing show of London Fashion Week, the second leg of the autumn-winter 2025 catwalk calendar, which began in New York and will go to Milan and Paris.

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Fashion

Sweden Drowns in Discarded Fast Fashion Items

A worker sorts incoming clothing items at Artikel2 sorting center in Stockholm on April 10, 2025. (Photo by Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP)
A worker sorts incoming clothing items at Artikel2 sorting center in Stockholm on April 10, 2025. (Photo by Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP)
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Sweden Drowns in Discarded Fast Fashion Items

A worker sorts incoming clothing items at Artikel2 sorting center in Stockholm on April 10, 2025. (Photo by Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP)
A worker sorts incoming clothing items at Artikel2 sorting center in Stockholm on April 10, 2025. (Photo by Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP)

Sweden's recycling centers are overflowing with clothes after an EU-wide ban this year on throwing away textiles, leaving overwhelmed municipalities eager to have fast fashion giants take responsibility.

"It's a huge amount coming in everyday. It's been crazy, it's a huge increase," said Brian Kelly, secretary general of the Artikel2 charity shop in Stockholm, where rows of bins were overfilled with discarded apparel.

Since the beginning of this year, EU countries must have separate textile recycling, alongside existing processes for glass, paper and food waste.

The aim is to promote circular waste management, where textiles are sorted and reused, or recycled if they are not too damaged.

"We have seen a 60-percent increase in textiles collected in January and February this year compared with the same period last year," said Karin Sundin, an expert on textile waste at Stockholm city's waste and recycling management company Stockholm Vatten och Avfall.

Once the textiles are sorted, some 60 to 70 percent is designated for reuse, and 20 to 30 percent for recycling as padding, isolation or composite materials.

Around seven to 10 percent is burned for energy, according to the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency.

That is a huge improvement from before the new law, according to experts, who note that discarded clothing used to be systematically incinerated.

However, a lack of infrastructure in Sweden means used clothes are largely exported abroad, primarily to Lithuania, where they are sorted, reused, or burned for energy.

"We don't have the big sorting plants that can put everything into value in the same way that they have in eastern Europe for example," explained Sundin.

"The reason is that it's so labor intensive (and) costs a lot of money," she said as she gave AFP a tour of the Ostberga recycling center in southern Stockholm.

Swedes throw away 90,000 tons of textiles per year, or 10 kilograms (22 pounds) per person, according to the Swedish Society for the Conservation of Nature.

The EU average is 19 kilograms, according to 2022 statistics, up from 17 in 2019, data from the European Environment Agency showed.

The clothing industry also pollutes the environment.

To make a t-shirt that weighs 135 grammes (4.76 ounces), 2,500 liters (660 gallons) of water and one kilogram (2.2 pounds) of chemicals are needed, noted Yvonne Augustsson, advisor at the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency.

"That means greenhouse gas emissions of around two to five kilos," she said.

"In Sweden, an article of clothing is used on average 30 times. If you double this to 60 times -- which seems reasonable -- you reduce the climate impact by half," she said.

Textile sorting in Sweden is handled by municipalities, many of which have been overburdened by the quantities received since the introduction of the new law.

In the sparsely populated north, some towns, such as Kiruna, continue to incinerate textiles because they have no takers for the items.

Fast fashion giants, such as H&M and Zara, are expected to eventually play a role in handling the waste they help generate, and negotiations are ongoing at the European level to determine their responsibility.

According to a preliminary agreement EU member states reached in February, clothing giants will be responsible for the end of lifetime of the products they sell, required to pay for collection, sorting, reuse and recycling.

The idea is to encourage fast fashion retailers to produce "clothing designed to last longer," said Augustsson.

Swedish brand H&M told AFP it welcomed moves in that direction.

Consumers also need to change their mindset.

Each person should "buy no more than five new articles of clothing per year," said Beatrice Rindevall, head of the Swedish Society for the Conservation of Nature, which regularly organizes clothing swaps.

In the town of Linkoping on a sunny spring day, a clothing exchange on a student campus had racks featuring everything from a hot pink jacket with feathered sleeves to faded jeans, bags and striped t-shirts.

"People can give us clothes in good condition that they don't wear anymore (and) exchange them for something else," volunteer Eva Vollmer said.

"We focus on creating the solution so that people actually have an alternative."