Egypt's Nubians Tame Crocodiles for Selfie-Snapping Tourists

Mamdouh Hassan (R) shows a crocodile to visitors at his crocodile terrarium in the Nubian village of Gharb Soheil, on the west bank of the Nile River in southern Egypt | AFP
Mamdouh Hassan (R) shows a crocodile to visitors at his crocodile terrarium in the Nubian village of Gharb Soheil, on the west bank of the Nile River in southern Egypt | AFP
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Egypt's Nubians Tame Crocodiles for Selfie-Snapping Tourists

Mamdouh Hassan (R) shows a crocodile to visitors at his crocodile terrarium in the Nubian village of Gharb Soheil, on the west bank of the Nile River in southern Egypt | AFP
Mamdouh Hassan (R) shows a crocodile to visitors at his crocodile terrarium in the Nubian village of Gharb Soheil, on the west bank of the Nile River in southern Egypt | AFP

Deep in the Nubia, a region along the Nile in southern Egypt, a baby crocodile sits on Mamdouh Hassan's shoulder to wow tourists.

The reptiles are a source of income for Egypt's Nubian minority, with visitors paying to marvel at the tamed creatures.

But beyond bringing in tourist dollars, crocodiles play an important role in the culture of the ethnic group with a history dating to Pharaonic times and its own unique language.

The Nubians traditionally lived along the banks of the Nile in southern Egypt with roots extending into northern Sudan.

In Gharb Soheil, a Nubian village near Aswan, mummified crocodile heads still adorn the doors of the traditional blue and white-domed homes.

Crocodiles represent an important physical totem of blessings in Nubian belief.

In Gharb Soheil a stuffed crocodile on the door shows that the homeowner keeps the large reptiles as pets.

Outside his humble home in the village, Hassan gently rubbed the back of Francesca -- a 1.5-meter (five-foot)-long, 15-year-old crocodile.

"I have raised her since she was born," the 45-year-old said lovingly of his pride and joy.

"She lives on fish, meat, and chicken."

- Pet crocodiles -

During the reign of president Gamal Abdel Nasser, the construction of the Aswan High Dam created a reservoir over traditional Nubian lands.

When Lake Nasser began filling in 1964, 44 Nubian villages were flooded.

While the Nile's crocodiles benefited from the new habitat, Nasser never fulfilled his promise to adequately compensate Nubians with new land.

Instead, about 50,000 Nubians were displaced to villages north of the dam, on the west bank of the Nile near Kom Ombo and Aswan -- a narrow strip of land with limited space for agriculture.

Ever since, Nubians have demanded the return of their lands and have maintained their culture by modernizing their traditions. Keeping crocodiles became a way to supplement incomes and promote their heritage.

Hassan learned to domesticate crocodiles from his father.

"My father was one of the first people in the Nubian village who really pioneered the idea of bringing in crocodiles as pets to lure tourists," he told AFP.

In the 20 years since, he has developed a keen sense for where and when wild crocodile eggs will hatch.

Female crocodiles lay their eggs along the banks of Lake Nasser where Hassan watches for the baby reptiles to emerge before carrying them home.

"The crocodile's aggressive nature is tempered by growing up in the home with us and being cared for," he said.

Francesca is the star of the show in the village, Hassan says. She was named by Italian tourists who enjoyed her sunny personality, so Hassan kept the name.

Visitors snap selfies with the lounging beasts, while the villagers regale the tourists with Nubian folk tales about the crocodiles.

Hany, a tourist from Cairo, was delighted with the spectacle of Hassan opening the crocodiles' mouths wide with his bare hands.

"I came here with my family to spend school holidays, for the kids to enjoy seeing the crocs," the 35-year-old said.

- 'Angels of the Nile' -

For ancient Pharaohs, the crocodile-headed god Sobek embodied the fluid nature of the Nile and was prayed to for protection from the annual floods.

A temple is dedicated to Sobek in Kom Ombo, engraved with pictograms and hieroglyphics detailing the embalming of crocodiles.

To this day, Nubians maintain a tradition of crocodile taxidermy, one that remains true to a centuries-old technique.

"Although we know very well the value of crocodile leather, we do not sell it... we cherish it," Hassan explained.

A dead crocodile is skinned from its gut and filled with straw or sawdust. Large crocodiles take about a month to mummify while a smaller one dries in a few days, Hassan said.

"This is Franco, who died last month," he said of the large mummified head of one of his former pets.

Abdel-Hakim Abdou, a curly-haired, 37-year-old cafe owner who recommends Hassan's terrarium as a must-see tourist attraction, rhapsodized about the importance of crocodiles to Nubians.

"The Nile for the Nubian represents life... everything that roams in it we consider angels," he said.



Artificial Glaciers Boost Water Supply in Northern Pakistan

The ice forms in the shape of cones that resemble Buddhist stupas, and act as a storage system -- steadily melting throughout spring when temperatures rise. Manzoor BALTI / AFP
The ice forms in the shape of cones that resemble Buddhist stupas, and act as a storage system -- steadily melting throughout spring when temperatures rise. Manzoor BALTI / AFP
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Artificial Glaciers Boost Water Supply in Northern Pakistan

The ice forms in the shape of cones that resemble Buddhist stupas, and act as a storage system -- steadily melting throughout spring when temperatures rise. Manzoor BALTI / AFP
The ice forms in the shape of cones that resemble Buddhist stupas, and act as a storage system -- steadily melting throughout spring when temperatures rise. Manzoor BALTI / AFP

At the foot of Pakistan's impossibly high mountains whitened by frost all year round, farmers grappling with a lack of water have created their own ice towers.
Warmer winters as a result of climate change has reduced the snow fall and subsequent seasonal snowmelt that feeds the valleys of Gilgit-Baltistan, a remote region home to K2, the world's second-highest peak.

Farmers in the Skardu valley, at an altitude of up to 2,600 meters (8,200 feet) in the shadow of the Karakoram mountain range, searched online for help in how to irrigate their apple and apricot orchards.

"We discovered artificial glaciers on YouTube," Ghulam Haider Hashmi told AFP.

They watched the videos of Sonam Wangchuk, an environmental activist and engineer in the Indian region of Ladakh, less than 200 kilometers away across a heavily patrolled border, who developed the technique about 10 years ago.

Water is piped from streams into the village, and sprayed into the air during the freezing winter temperatures.

"The water must be propelled so that it freezes in the air when temperatures drop below zero, creating ice towers," said Zakir Hussain Zakir, a professor at the University of Baltistan.

The ice forms in the shape of cones that resemble Buddhist stupas, and act as a storage system -- steadily melting throughout spring when temperatures rise.

'Ice stupas'
Gilgit-Baltistan has 13,000 glaciers -- more than any other country on Earth outside the polar regions.
Their beauty has made the region one of the country's top tourist destinations -- towering peaks loom over the Old Silk Road, still visible from a highway transporting tourists between cherry orchards, glaciers and ice-blue lakes.

Sher Muhammad, a specialist in the Hindu Kush-Himalayan mountain range that stretches from Afghanistan to Myanmar, however said most of the region's water supply comes from snow melt in spring, with a fraction from annual glacial melt in summers.

"From late October until early April, we were receiving heavy snowfall. But in the past few years, it's quite dry," Muhammad, a researcher at the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD), told AFP.

The first "ice stupas" in Gilgit-Baltistan were created in 2018.

Now, more than 20 villages make them every winter, and "more than 16,000 residents have access to water without having to build reservoirs or tanks", said Rashid-ud-Din, provincial head of GLOF-2, a UN-Pakistan plan to adapt to the effects of climate change.

Farmer Muhammad Raza told AFP that eight stupas were built in his village of Hussainabad this winter, trapping approximately 20 million liters of water in the ice.

"We no longer have water shortages during planting," he said, since the open-air reservoirs appeared on the slopes of the valley.

"Before, we had to wait for the glaciers to melt in June to get water, but the stupas saved our fields," said Ali Kazim, also a farmer in the valley.

Harvest seasons multiply
Before the stupas, "we planted our crops in May", said 26-year-old Bashir Ahmed who grows potatoes, wheat and barley in nearby Pari village which has also adopted the method.

And "we only had one growing season, whereas now we can plant two or three times" a year.

Temperatures in Pakistan rose twice as fast between 1981 and 2005 compared to the global average, putting the country on the front line of climate change impacts, including water scarcity.

Its 240 million inhabitants live in a territory that is 80 percent arid or semi-arid and depends on rivers and streams originating in neighboring countries for more than three-quarters of its water.

Glaciers are melting rapidly in Pakistan and across the world, with a few exceptions including the Karakoram mountain range, increasing the risk of flooding and reducing water supply over the long term.

"Faced with climate change, there are neither rich nor poor, neither urban nor rural; the whole world has become vulnerable," said 24-year-old Yasir Parvi.

"In our village, with the ice stupas, we decided to take a chance."