Prada Returns to Minimalist Roots for 1st Joint Collection

FILE PHOTO: The Prada store is shown in Las Vegas, Nevada, US, January 17, 2020. REUTERS/ Mike Blake/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: The Prada store is shown in Las Vegas, Nevada, US, January 17, 2020. REUTERS/ Mike Blake/File Photo
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Prada Returns to Minimalist Roots for 1st Joint Collection

FILE PHOTO: The Prada store is shown in Las Vegas, Nevada, US, January 17, 2020. REUTERS/ Mike Blake/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: The Prada store is shown in Las Vegas, Nevada, US, January 17, 2020. REUTERS/ Mike Blake/File Photo

Miuccia Prada went back to her trademark minimalist style for her first collection with Belgian designer Raf Simons, who joined the Italian fashion group as co-creative director in February.

The pair's Spring/Summer 2021 women's show was streamed live on Thursday for Milan's fashion week, where most collections are being presented digitally and without audiences due to coronavirus social distancing rules.

"It's a really strange situation," Prada said in a video after the show, where she and Simons answered questions from people around the world.

"But we have the occasion to really show the clothes, we can't see the real people, the public, but at least we hope you can enjoy and see the clothes better."

Models wore mostly black and white or pastel-colored vests, trousers and long skirts in simple, monochrome designs which Prada said were inspired by the idea of uniforms. Many clothes had round-shaped holes cut out of the fabric.

"Clothes are pared-back, refined, focused, without superfluous decoration: shell tops, straight pants, overcoats in industrial re-nylon," the brand said in a statement.

Simons, 52, said he had never expected to be, one day, co-designing a collection with Miuccia Prada, but that he was "extremely happy" with the result.

"Maybe it's harder as you have more dialogue, and that can also impact on the timing, but all in all I find it easier," he said when asked what it was like to jointly create a collection.

"Decision-making for me is strengthened when I know that Miuccia likes very much what I also like very much. Even if I am convinced, my decision is strengthened when I know that she too is convinced."



Valentino’s New Designer Showcases History and Drama at Couture Debut in Paris

 A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
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Valentino’s New Designer Showcases History and Drama at Couture Debut in Paris

 A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)

Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture debut was the most anticipated ticket of Paris Couture Week, and the designer didn't disappoint with a lavish spectacle at the Palais Brongniart, a fittingly historic backdrop for his past-meets-present storytelling.

Known for his “more is more” aesthetic, Michele delivered a VIP-filled show on Wednesday brimming with historical reverence, theatricality, and his signature offbeat twists.

Michele, who previously spent nearly eight years redefining Gucci with his eclectic maximalism, has long drawn inspiration from history. It's an obsession that traces back to his childhood in Rome, where he would rummage through his mother’s closet, captivated by the textures of bygone eras.

His tenure at Gucci transformed the brand into a powerhouse of layered nostalgia and offbeat opulence, making his appointment at Valentino — a house steeped in aristocratic elegance — both a natural evolution and a challenge.

His arrival was a significant shift from Valentino's former designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was celebrated for his pared-down romanticism.

The opening look set the tone: a harlequin-patterned gown of enormous proportions, fusing the whimsy of the circus with regal splendor.

Full skirts billowed with 18th-century grandeur against a stark black runway, while ’70s-inspired ruffles added his distinctive vintage-inflected edge. A standout floral gown, evocative of Marie Antoinette, received the New Romantics treatment, a nod to the late ‘70s and early ’80s era that has long fascinated the designer.

Though the collection largely played to Michele’s strengths, with exuberance tempered by couture-level precision, some elements felt overdone. A polka dot jacket with an oversized bow veered into twee territory, an example of how his fondness for embellishment can sometimes tip into excess. Yet, the overall balance leaned toward refinement, with a relative restraint compared to his past work at Gucci.

Michele’s couture debut reaffirmed his reputation as a designer who finds beauty in historical excavation.