Europe’s Museums Are Open, but the Public Isn’t Coming

The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam had 10,000 visitors a day before the pandemic. These days, it’s about 800. Ilvy Njiokiktjien for The New York Times
The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam had 10,000 visitors a day before the pandemic. These days, it’s about 800. Ilvy Njiokiktjien for The New York Times
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Europe’s Museums Are Open, but the Public Isn’t Coming

The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam had 10,000 visitors a day before the pandemic. These days, it’s about 800. Ilvy Njiokiktjien for The New York Times
The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam had 10,000 visitors a day before the pandemic. These days, it’s about 800. Ilvy Njiokiktjien for The New York Times

Visitors to the Rijksmuseum’s vast, vaulted galleries of Dutch old master paintings can feel as though they’ve got the whole place to themselves these days. Before the pandemic, around 10,000 people used to crowd in each day. Now, it’s about 800.

In theory, even with strict social distancing guidelines — visitors must book ahead, wear a mask, follow a set path and stay at least six feet apart — the Dutch national museum could accommodate as many as 2,500 people a day. But the public isn’t exactly jostling for those limited tickets.

Across town, the Hermitage Amsterdam museum has extended an exhibition of imperial jewels from the Russian state collection that was attracting 1,100 visitors a day last year. Now, the museum has limited daily ticket sales to 600, though it’s only selling about half.

As cultural institutions reopen across the United States, with new coronavirus protocols in place, many have been looking to Europe, where many museums have been open since May, for a preview of how the public might respond to the invitation to return. So far, there’s little reason to be optimistic.

Almost all European museums are suffering from visitor losses, but their ability to cope depends almost entirely on how they are funded. Institutions supported by government funding are able to weather the storm with a little belt-tightening, while those that depend on ticket sales are facing tougher choices. Many are laying off employees and restructuring their business models.

Visitor information from across Europe tells a fairly consistent story: Museums that have reopened have about a third of the visitors they had this time last year. The Louvre in Paris reports about 4,500 to 5,000 visitors a day, compared with about 15,000 a year ago. The State Museums of Berlin, a group of 18 museums in the German capital, reports about 30 percent of its usual attendance.

Others are faring worse. The Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam is down to about 400 visitors a day, when it used to welcome 6,500. “It’s really very, very quiet in the museum,” said its director, Emilie Gordenker.

Travel restrictions and border closings have dramatically reduced the numbers of international tourists in European capitals. Over the summer, institutions in the Netherlands reported a boost in tourism from neighboring Belgium and Germany. That waned again when the school year started in September, and a surge of new coronavirus cases in the Netherlands led to “code red” alerts in several Dutch cities, including Amsterdam.

European governments support many national cultural institutions, but there is a broad range of business models across the continent, from privately established museums that receive virtually no government money to those that are wholly subsidized by taxpayers. In recent years, however, governments in many countries, including the Netherlands, have been cutting support of museums, as politicians have encouraged the “American model” of funding, with more reliance on earned income.

The Rijksmuseum and the Hermitage Amsterdam, less than a 10-minute bike ride from each other, represent two points on that spectrum. While the Dutch national museum receives one-third of its financing from the government, the Hermitage, a private initiative, has no government subsidy, and relies on ticket sales for 70 percent of its budget.

“Seniors have been our core business,” said Paul Mosterd, the deputy director of the Hermitage Amsterdam. “We had a lot of senior groups, a group of friends of pensioners, or grandpa celebrates his 80th birthday with a guided tour and a lunch.” Such patrons are now wary of indoor spaces and public transportation, he said, making the museum more reliant on younger visitors. But, he added, “That generation isn’t coming.”

Several European countries — including Britain, France, Germany and the Netherlands — have already announced government bailout packages for the arts. But many local institutions are still projecting shortfalls.

“We foresee huge losses for the next few years, and just a very slow return to normal,” said Lidewij de Koekkoek, the director of the Rembrandt House, a museum in the artist’s former home and studio. Before the pandemic, 80 percent of the museum’s visitors were international tourists.

“We expect that in 2024 we might be back to our normal visitor numbers,” she added. “Financially, it’s quite a disaster.”

Ms. de Koekkoek said that Rembrandt House had lost about 2.5 million euros, or around $3 million, because of the decline in visitors — more than half its overall budget.

A bailout from the Dutch government and support from the city of Amsterdam have helped recoup about $1 million, she said. “On the positive side, it’s back to basics, and there’s a lot of creativity in thinking towards the future,” she added.

Yilmaz Dziewior, the director of the Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany, said that the country’s museums were lucky because they have long received generous government subsidies. Few, he said, are in danger of failing, even if visitors don’t come.

“What the crisis also showed is how robust or healthy the German system is, in comparison with the US, for example,” he said. “We need the visitors, but they do not make up such a big part of our overall budget.”

He said that in the museum’s annual budget of roughly €13 million, about €3.5 million comes from earned income, with €1.8 million of that from ticket sales. He anticipates a loss of half of that.

The museum’s financial situation has nonetheless prompted a rethink, Mr. Dziewior said. “One thing that it showed us is that we need to work more with our own collection,” he said. “We do so many shows where we ship works from across the world, which is not good ecologically, economically and in other ways. Through the crisis, these issues became clearer.”

Mr. Mosterd of the Hermitage Amsterdam said the crisis had compelled the museum’s staff to rethink exhibitions and try to appeal to a different kind of visitor. An exhibition of medieval art, “Romanovs Under the Spell of the Knights,” for example, has been recast with greater emphasis on armor, weapons and battles.

“It’s more suitable for families with young kids, which is for us in some ways a new audience,” Mr. Mosterd said. “That's 100 percent a change we made for marketing reasons.”

Mr. Dziewior said that reorienting the Ludwig Museum, and finding a more sustainable, more inclusive approach to visitors — especially those who live locally — was unlikely to be a temporary shift.
“One thing that the crisis showed us was that the so-called normal wasn’t normal,” he said. “It’s not our aim to go back to where we left off.”

The New York Times



This Beirut Family Has Sold Falafel for 100 Years, Through War and Crisis. It Has No Plan to Stop

 Ziad Tabarra, right, holds falafel sandwiches made with finely ground fava beans at his family's shop in Beirut's Hamra district, Lebanon, Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2026. (AP)
Ziad Tabarra, right, holds falafel sandwiches made with finely ground fava beans at his family's shop in Beirut's Hamra district, Lebanon, Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2026. (AP)
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This Beirut Family Has Sold Falafel for 100 Years, Through War and Crisis. It Has No Plan to Stop

 Ziad Tabarra, right, holds falafel sandwiches made with finely ground fava beans at his family's shop in Beirut's Hamra district, Lebanon, Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2026. (AP)
Ziad Tabarra, right, holds falafel sandwiches made with finely ground fava beans at his family's shop in Beirut's Hamra district, Lebanon, Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2026. (AP)

For more than a century, the Tabbara family has been serving up falafel to Beirut’s residents.

Their business, which predates Lebanon’s founding, has survived two world wars and a series of local conflicts in the small Mediterranean nation.

Now, a fourth generation is getting ready to take over the modest shop, where customers can get $3 sandwiches of small, doughnut-shaped patties of deep-fried ground fava beans wrapped in flat Lebanese bread with pickled cucumber, tomatoes, parsley, thick tahini sauce and homemade dark red-hot pepper paste for the spice lovers.

“I have clients spread all over the world,” 82-year-old Mohammed Tabbara said as a European customer waited for a sandwich in Beirut’s busy Hamra district that's packed with cafes, clothing shops and two major universities.

“They all come to eat falafel because they know the flavor and the taste,” Tabbara added.

Photographs of Mohammed Tabarra taken in 1966, top, and 2024 hang at his family's shop in Beirut's Hamra district, Lebanon, Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2026. (AP)

He is passing down the culinary craft to his 40-year-old son, Ziad Tabbara, a former accountant who has spent the last six years working full time with his dad.

“This is a flavor that made history and heritage passed down through generations,” said Ziad Tabbara, who as a child helped his father in the shop during summer vacations.

Ziad has no children of his own to pass on the tradition to — a sore point with his father who wants to see him married with children.

Beirut was still part of the Ottoman Empire when Ziad's great-grandfather Kamel Tabbara opened the family’s first falafel shop in the city’s central Bab Idriss district in 1914. It would be six years before the state of Greater Lebanon was established after World War I.

Kamel passed the business to his son Ahmad. Since 1950, the business has been mostly run by Kamel’s grandson Mohammed. It was around that time that the family moved its business from central Beirut. The current shop in a narrow street has been in place since 1979.

“I have been through 40 wars,” Mohammed Tabbara said, referring to two civil wars, Israel's 1982 invasion of Lebanon, multiple Israel-Hezbollah wars, and several conflicts involving Palestinian groups and the Syrian army.

Mohammed Tabbara, who began working with his dad at the shop when he was just 6 years old, still mans the counter, taking orders from clients and assembling sandwiches. Always smiling, Mohammed knows many customers by name. Some have been getting falafel there for decades.

A falafel sandwich made with finely ground fava beans is prepared at the Tabarra family's shop in Beirut's Hamra district, Lebanon, Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2026. (AP)

Beirut is known throughout the Middle East for its cuisine, from fine restaurants to street food.

Small falafel spots can be found throughout Lebanon. A sandwich is a filling, affordable meal for people in a nation that's been experiencing a historic economic meltdown since 2019, rooted in decades of corruption and mismanagement.

Mohammed Tabbara's shop is decorated with two photos of him: A black-and-white one taken in 1966 and another taken two years ago in which he wears his trademark skull cap.

He takes pride in the shop's cleanliness. They change the cooking oil every day and wash the vegetables with vinegar and salt.

Jean Matta, 60, works in the neighborhood and has been eating falafel at Tabbara since 1992. “It’s crunchy, tasty and clean,” Matta said.

Ziad has learned his father's special secret recipe for falafel, which is made of Australian fava beans, soaked in water the night before, then ground before being mixed with salt and an array of spices, including coriander.

Mohammed said chickpeas, used in many falafel recipes, are heavier and take more time to digest than fava beans alone. He also said he was the first in Lebanon to introduce a falafel patty covered with sesame seeds and with a hole in the middle, making it well-cooked inside and crunchy on the outside.

“The sandwich you take from here is light and 100% healthy,” Mohammed said as he wrapped a sandwich while his son dropped falafel patties into a giant frying pot.

“God willing, I will continue to offer the same flavor,” Ziad said.


Missing Teen Found Alive After 6 Days in Australian Woodlands

In this image made from video and provided by the Victoria State Police 17-year-old William, center right, is embraced by his mother Elizabeth, only first names were provided by police, while in a helicopter in Cowwarr, Australia, Thursday, Nov. 12, 2026, after William spent six days lost in eastern Australian woodlands. (Victoria Police via AP)
In this image made from video and provided by the Victoria State Police 17-year-old William, center right, is embraced by his mother Elizabeth, only first names were provided by police, while in a helicopter in Cowwarr, Australia, Thursday, Nov. 12, 2026, after William spent six days lost in eastern Australian woodlands. (Victoria Police via AP)
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Missing Teen Found Alive After 6 Days in Australian Woodlands

In this image made from video and provided by the Victoria State Police 17-year-old William, center right, is embraced by his mother Elizabeth, only first names were provided by police, while in a helicopter in Cowwarr, Australia, Thursday, Nov. 12, 2026, after William spent six days lost in eastern Australian woodlands. (Victoria Police via AP)
In this image made from video and provided by the Victoria State Police 17-year-old William, center right, is embraced by his mother Elizabeth, only first names were provided by police, while in a helicopter in Cowwarr, Australia, Thursday, Nov. 12, 2026, after William spent six days lost in eastern Australian woodlands. (Victoria Police via AP)

A 17-year-old boy with autism was found alive Thursday after six days lost in eastern Australian woodlands.

The boy, whom police identified only as William, had begun camping with a teenage friend when he disappeared last Friday near Walhalla, a former gold-mining town 185 kilometers (115 miles) east of Melbourne, police said.

A police helicopter crew found him surrounded by wilderness lying asleep on a flat rock beside a creek, and he was later reunited with his mother. William was in good spirits and mostly in good health, the police statement said.

Video shot from the rescue helicopter showed he was shirtless and sunburned. He was wearing shorts and boots and was using towels as blankets.

“I’m just over the moon that he’s alive,” his mother, Elizabeth, told reporters.

The AP has decided not to provide her family name to avoid identifying her son.

“And he’s never leaving the house again. He’s grounded for life. He’s not going anywhere ever again,” she joked.

William was later taken to a hospital for his health to be monitored, police said.

William's family have said he has Level 2 autism. That requires “substantial support,” according to the Australian advocacy group Autism360.

Such a person may have marked deficits in verbal and non-verbal social communication and rely heavily on routines and predictable activities.

Disruption can cause significant distress.

The Southern Hemisphere spring weather had been mild for the past week in the alpine region where William was lost and there had been little rain.

Elizabeth had dropped off her son and his friend last Friday for a weekend of camping. William walked a short distance from the campsite to the drop-off location to collect more camping equipment but never returned to his friend, police said.

After becoming lost, William trekked for days up and down “some very steep terrain,” Acting Police Inspector Jason Benbow said.

He spent the last two days where he was found at the creek, trapped by the steepness of his surrounds 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) from his camp site, Benbow said.

“He woke up to the sound of the helicopter, gave them a thumbs up and they winched him to safety,” Benbow told reporters.

The extensive police search for him involved more than 100 emergency services personnel and volunteers.


Europe’s Hera Spacecraft Begins Close Inspections of an Asteroid Rammed by NASA in a 2022 Test

This undated image provided by the European Space Agency on Nov. 5, 2026 and taken by the Hera spacecraft, shows asteroid Didymos. (European Space Agency via AP)
This undated image provided by the European Space Agency on Nov. 5, 2026 and taken by the Hera spacecraft, shows asteroid Didymos. (European Space Agency via AP)
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Europe’s Hera Spacecraft Begins Close Inspections of an Asteroid Rammed by NASA in a 2022 Test

This undated image provided by the European Space Agency on Nov. 5, 2026 and taken by the Hera spacecraft, shows asteroid Didymos. (European Space Agency via AP)
This undated image provided by the European Space Agency on Nov. 5, 2026 and taken by the Hera spacecraft, shows asteroid Didymos. (European Space Agency via AP)

A European spacecraft has begun close inspections of an asteroid rammed by NASA four years ago in a planetary defense test.

The European Space Agency announced Wednesday that the Hera spacecraft is now studying Didymos and its moonlet Dimorphos from just 15 miles to 18 miles (25 kilometers to 30 kilometers) away, The AP news reported.

NASA’s Dart spacecraft deliberately slammed into little Dimorphos in 2022 to see whether such a defensive move might help save Earth from a killer space rock one day.

The impact shortened the moonlet’s orbit around Didymos. More importantly, it nudged the moonlet into a slightly different path around the sun.

Next month, the small car-sized Hera, launched in 2024, will venture even closer — just 12 miles (20 kilometers) away.

ESA officials consider this a “crash site investigation” worthy of its finest robotic detective. Hera is carrying 25 science instruments as well as a pair of shoebox-sized Cubesats to survey Dimorphos even more closely and attempt to land on it.

The Dart spacecraft — short for Double Asteroid Redirection Test — sent rubble and even boulders flying off Dimorphos, providing an extra kick to the impact’s momentum. The debris trail extended thousands of miles (more than 10,000 kilometers) into space for months.

Some of that debris could still be in the vicinity, according to scientists.

Dimorphos is an estimated 500 feet (151 meters) in diameter. Didymos is roughly 2,560 feet (780 meters) in diameter.