UK Businesses Fear for Afghan Rug Weavers After Taliban Takeover

Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)
Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)
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UK Businesses Fear for Afghan Rug Weavers After Taliban Takeover

Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)
Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)

Overseas businesses selling colorful handwoven rugs and vivid handblown glass from Afghanistan are concerned for their suppliers as the Taliban's takeover of the country threatens those with links to the West.

British businessman James Wilthew has built up close ties with Afghan rug weavers and sellers, buying the sought-after carpets directly from the northern provinces, where the industry is traditionally based.

The ex-serviceman sells the carpets at his shop in Hebden Bridge in Yorkshire in northern England and estimates that his company, The Afghan Rug Shop, supports about 200 families.

A share of the proceeds goes to Afghanaid, a British charity supporting people in Afghanistan.

He said he was frustrated by the British government's response, despite an emotive emergency debate on the crisis in parliament and urgent calls for help.

"Nothing happens, there's been no action," he said, warning: "Government bureaucracy will result in the death of thousands of people."

The former RAF officer worked in Afghanistan in 2004 on the UK Provincial Reconstruction Team, set up to help development projects.

Asked if hardliners could target those who worked with him due to his UK military background, he said: "Yes, of course".

The Taliban could say, "You've been working for Mr. James", he said. "It's just the association."

"I'm not necessarily sure how far the Taliban will go with these things: we just don't know what the spectrum of danger is."

Major export commodity
Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization.

Textiles are by far the most significant Afghan import to the UK, worth some £2.4 million ($3.3 million) per year, government figures show.

The ancient carpet trade existed under the previous Taliban regime, which ruled Afghanistan with an iron fist from 1996 until they were ousted in the US-led invasion in 2001.

The uncertainty and chaos since the return of the hardline extremists was "a temporary issue", said Wilthew.

"Under the Taliban regime, that trade (in textiles) will continue, they need the tax from that business, the employment," he added.

"It's their export commodity, it's how they make an income."

Most Afghan carpets are exported via neighboring Pakistan, but Wilthew is unusual in dealing directly with artisans and traders inside the country.

That could force him to change his business model, possibly using a middleman in Pakistan, and switching from US dollars if the greenback is banned in Afghanistan.

He is also unlikely to be able to continue using international shipping and delivery companies DHL and FedEx for delivery, he added.

"Acquiring rugs from Afghanistan is not a concern for me. It's not an issue, the issue is my friends," he said.

'Impossible' logistics
Another high-end company that sells goods made by Afghan artisans is London-based Ishkar, which sells contemporary-design carpets, as well handblown tumblers, jewelry and clothes.

The brand's creative director, Electra Simon, said the company was in daily contact with people in Afghanistan, and "pretty much everybody is trying to leave".

"They just basically want to get out, they can't leave their houses right now," she said, adding they felt "sheer desperation" at the situation.

"It's really hard: the relationships we've built up with people, seeing them in these massively tricky situations," she said.

Ishkar's online shop is selling photographic prints of Afghanistan to raise funds for Emergency, which provides medical treatment to conflict victims.

The company, which works with some 30 people in the country, has removed references to Afghan partners from its website to protect them.

"We want to do everything possible to continue working with people in Afghanistan, if it doesn't put them at risk," she said

"Some of them will be (at risk), others probably not as much because they are just traditional artisans working, so hopefully we can continue working with them."

Some artisans in areas captured by the Taliban have been able to keep working, she said, although the logistics of exporting to Britain were at the moment "completely impossible".

Both she and Wilthew said the situation was still too fluid to predict, and a clearer picture will emerge in the coming weeks.

"It will definitely be different for us, that's 100 percent," said Simon.



Oil Wavers as Trump's Colombia Sanctions Threat Rattles Markets

Pump Jacks are seen at sunrise near Bakersfield, California October 14, 2014. REUTERS/Lucy Nicholson
Pump Jacks are seen at sunrise near Bakersfield, California October 14, 2014. REUTERS/Lucy Nicholson
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Oil Wavers as Trump's Colombia Sanctions Threat Rattles Markets

Pump Jacks are seen at sunrise near Bakersfield, California October 14, 2014. REUTERS/Lucy Nicholson
Pump Jacks are seen at sunrise near Bakersfield, California October 14, 2014. REUTERS/Lucy Nicholson

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Oil market momentum was kept in check on Monday as prices fluctuated in and out of negative territory, with traders on edge despite the US pulling back from initial sanctions threats against Colombia, reducing immediate concern over oil supply disruptions.

Brent crude futures fell 36 cents, or 0.5%, to $78.14 a barrel by 1200 GMT. US West Texas Intermediate crude was at $74.27, down 39 cents, or 0.5%.

Both benchmarks oscillated between moderate gains and losses in early trading.

The US swiftly reversed plans to impose sanctions and tariffs on Colombia after the South American nation agreed to accept deported migrants from the United States, the White House said late on Sunday, Reuters reported.

Colombia last year sent about 41% of its seaborne crude exports to the US, data from analytics firm Kpler shows.

"Even if the sanctions didn't take place, this still creates nervousness that Trump will bully whoever needs to be bullied to get his way," said Bjarne Schieldrop, chief commodities analyst at SEB.

"Fundamentally, the market is surprisingly tight," said Schieldrop, referring to time spreads showing that the price of crude oil for quicker delivery is rising.

Gains were limited by Trump's repeated call on Friday for the Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC) to cut oil prices to hurt oil-rich Russia's finances and help to end to the war in Ukraine.

"One way to stop it quickly is for OPEC to stop making so much money and drop the price of oil ... That war will stop right away," Trump said.

Trump has also threatened to hit Russia "and other participating countries" with taxes, tariffs and sanctions if a deal to end the war in Ukraine is not struck soon.

Russian President Vladimir Putin said on Friday that he and Trump should meet to talk about the Ukraine war and energy prices.

"They are positioning for negotiations," said John Driscoll at Singapore-based consultancy JTD Energy, adding that this creates volatility in oil markets.

He added that oil markets are probably skewed a little bit to the downside, with Trump looking to boost US output and try to secure overseas markets for US crude.

"He's going to want to muscle into some of the OPEC market share; so in that sense he's kind of a competitor," Driscoll said.

However, OPEC and its allies including Russia have yet to react to Trump's call, with OPEC+ delegates pointing to a plan already in place to start raising oil output from April.

Both oil benchmarks registered their first weekly decline in five weeks on easing concern last week over potential supply disruptions resulting from the latest sanctions on Russia.

Goldman Sachs analysts said they do not expect a big hit to Russian production because higher freight rates have encouraged non-sanctioned ships to move Russian oil while the deepening discount on the affected Russian ESPO grade attracts price-sensitive buyers.

Still, JP Morgan analysts said some risk premium is justified given that nearly 20% of the global Aframax fleet currently faces sanctions.

"The application of sanctions on the Russian energy sector as leverage in future negotiations could go either way, indicating that a zero risk premium is not appropriate," they added in a note.

Elsewhere, Chinese manufacturing data on Monday was weaker than expected, adding fresh concerns over energy demand.