UK Businesses Fear for Afghan Rug Weavers After Taliban Takeover

Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)
Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)
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UK Businesses Fear for Afghan Rug Weavers After Taliban Takeover

Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)
Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization. (AFP)

Overseas businesses selling colorful handwoven rugs and vivid handblown glass from Afghanistan are concerned for their suppliers as the Taliban's takeover of the country threatens those with links to the West.

British businessman James Wilthew has built up close ties with Afghan rug weavers and sellers, buying the sought-after carpets directly from the northern provinces, where the industry is traditionally based.

The ex-serviceman sells the carpets at his shop in Hebden Bridge in Yorkshire in northern England and estimates that his company, The Afghan Rug Shop, supports about 200 families.

A share of the proceeds goes to Afghanaid, a British charity supporting people in Afghanistan.

He said he was frustrated by the British government's response, despite an emotive emergency debate on the crisis in parliament and urgent calls for help.

"Nothing happens, there's been no action," he said, warning: "Government bureaucracy will result in the death of thousands of people."

The former RAF officer worked in Afghanistan in 2004 on the UK Provincial Reconstruction Team, set up to help development projects.

Asked if hardliners could target those who worked with him due to his UK military background, he said: "Yes, of course".

The Taliban could say, "You've been working for Mr. James", he said. "It's just the association."

"I'm not necessarily sure how far the Taliban will go with these things: we just don't know what the spectrum of danger is."

Major export commodity
Afghan rugs are a major commodity and the country's second largest non-agricultural export, according to the World Trade Organization.

Textiles are by far the most significant Afghan import to the UK, worth some £2.4 million ($3.3 million) per year, government figures show.

The ancient carpet trade existed under the previous Taliban regime, which ruled Afghanistan with an iron fist from 1996 until they were ousted in the US-led invasion in 2001.

The uncertainty and chaos since the return of the hardline extremists was "a temporary issue", said Wilthew.

"Under the Taliban regime, that trade (in textiles) will continue, they need the tax from that business, the employment," he added.

"It's their export commodity, it's how they make an income."

Most Afghan carpets are exported via neighboring Pakistan, but Wilthew is unusual in dealing directly with artisans and traders inside the country.

That could force him to change his business model, possibly using a middleman in Pakistan, and switching from US dollars if the greenback is banned in Afghanistan.

He is also unlikely to be able to continue using international shipping and delivery companies DHL and FedEx for delivery, he added.

"Acquiring rugs from Afghanistan is not a concern for me. It's not an issue, the issue is my friends," he said.

'Impossible' logistics
Another high-end company that sells goods made by Afghan artisans is London-based Ishkar, which sells contemporary-design carpets, as well handblown tumblers, jewelry and clothes.

The brand's creative director, Electra Simon, said the company was in daily contact with people in Afghanistan, and "pretty much everybody is trying to leave".

"They just basically want to get out, they can't leave their houses right now," she said, adding they felt "sheer desperation" at the situation.

"It's really hard: the relationships we've built up with people, seeing them in these massively tricky situations," she said.

Ishkar's online shop is selling photographic prints of Afghanistan to raise funds for Emergency, which provides medical treatment to conflict victims.

The company, which works with some 30 people in the country, has removed references to Afghan partners from its website to protect them.

"We want to do everything possible to continue working with people in Afghanistan, if it doesn't put them at risk," she said

"Some of them will be (at risk), others probably not as much because they are just traditional artisans working, so hopefully we can continue working with them."

Some artisans in areas captured by the Taliban have been able to keep working, she said, although the logistics of exporting to Britain were at the moment "completely impossible".

Both she and Wilthew said the situation was still too fluid to predict, and a clearer picture will emerge in the coming weeks.

"It will definitely be different for us, that's 100 percent," said Simon.



Saudi Arabia to Bring Together 45 Ministers, 200 Speakers to Boost Global Jobs

A general view of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. (SPA)
A general view of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. (SPA)
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Saudi Arabia to Bring Together 45 Ministers, 200 Speakers to Boost Global Jobs

A general view of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. (SPA)
A general view of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. (SPA)

Saudi Arabia will host 45 ministers and more than 200 local and international speakers to boost cooperation and create more suitable job opportunities for youth worldwide, according to Dr. Abdullah Abuthnain, Vice Minister of Human Resources and Social Development for Labor and Chairman of the Executive Committee.

The Ministry of Human Resources and Social Development is holding the second edition of the Global Labor Market Conference (GLMC) in Riyadh on January 29-30.

The event aims to establish a key dialogue platform to discuss opportunities and challenges and provide solutions for the future of global labor markets.

Abuthnain told Asharq Al-Awsat that the ministerial roundtable will serve as an annual global platform bringing together policymakers, industry leaders, and decision-makers to discuss labor market challenges, solutions, and relevant developments worldwide.

Over 45 labor ministers from around the world will meet at the event to discuss innovative policies aimed at improving working conditions and youth employment, he added.

The conference will serve as a platform for sharing best practices and discussing challenges and successes in global labor markets, including Saudi Arabia, which is seeing major advancements in policy and a competitive work environment.

The ministerial meeting also aims to “strengthen international cooperation to create more job opportunities for youth worldwide,” Abuthnain added. The meeting is primarily a “platform for exchanging ideas and experiences.”

Building on discussions from the first meeting, the second session will continue to explore previous topics, incorporating new insights and developments over the past year, and looking ahead to future trends. This will give participating countries the chance to share their successes and challenges.

The ministerial meeting will encourage ongoing dialogue to strengthen collective efforts and make use of research and studies to support the future of global labor markets.

With around 200 local and international speakers, the conference will focus on six main themes: continuous learning, the impact of digital transformation on labor markets, wage growth, and the importance of skills-based employment.

Other topics will include productivity, the role of mobile workforces in economic growth, youth challenges, and the contribution of small and medium businesses to innovation and digital transformation.

The conference has strategic partnerships with over 45 countries, as well as organizations like the International Labour Organization, the World Bank, the UN Development Program, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development and the Misk Foundation.

It will feature experts from think tanks like Combining Trust International, the Korea Labor Institute, and the Indian Labor Economics Association, who will contribute ideas and solutions to common labor market challenges.

Abuthnain believes the diverse group of leaders and experts from around the world will have a significant impact on improving youth employment opportunities.

“Our goal is to find solutions that benefit not only our region but also provide a model for global cooperation,” he told Asharq Al-Awsat.

“We expect participating countries to learn from each other based on their unique needs. This conference is a global platform for sharing ideas and experiences, with a common goal of supporting today’s youth and future generations,” he added.

Saudi Arabia’s labor market is supported by Vision 2030, which has helped achieve historic successes, including reducing the unemployment rate to 3.7% and driving technological progress, Abuthnain said.