Makeup Makes Comeback in Middle East Market as Pandemic Eases

Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)
Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)
TT

Makeup Makes Comeback in Middle East Market as Pandemic Eases

Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)
Social media influencer Gehna Advani of Delhi, India, tries a lip liner made by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic’s Makeup by Mario brand at an event held at City Center Mirdif Mall in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Friday, Oct. 29, 2021. (AP)

While pandemic style saw people put on pajamas and their hair up in a bun, 2021 is more about mascara and lip liners — and makeup sales in the multi-billion-dollar Mideast market are beginning to improve.

After a pandemic sales slump, analysts now predict the Middle East makeup market will grow by as much as 5% over the next five years, even as sales in some parts of the world continue to slow, such as in Western Europe and North America.

Drawing on those trends, Dubai — the glitzy city state that is part of the United Arab Emirates — has been hosting a number of events and celebrities. Among them was Mario Dedivanovic, known for doing Kim Kardashian’s makeup, who hosted a talk on the future of beauty over the weekend. With more than 9 million followers, Dedivanovic is one of the most influential makeup artists currently on the scene.

Mask-less women donning designer shoes and bags and wearing the latest makeup trends, gathered at Mirdif City Center Mall to listen to him.

Dedovanovic said Dubai is on par with global beauty hubs.

“Dubai is such a cosmopolitan city. Everywhere in the world, you know, everybody knows about Dubai,” Dedovanovic told The Associated Press. He said makeup artists in Dubai are “doing everything at the same pace that ... it is being done in Paris and Milan and London.”

The makeup industry was worth $4 billion in the Middle East even during the pandemic, according to market research group Euromonitor International. But the pandemic hit it hard with the surge in working from home and cancellations of many social events such as weddings. Pandemic-related job losses also meant less disposable income, and spending focused more on necessities.

Globally, the makeup industry declined by 16% in 2020, Euromonitor said, with the slump slightly less drastic at 10% in the Middle East.

Amna Abbas, a consultant for beauty and fashion at Euromonitor, said some areas of the Middle East, including the UAE, had shorter lockdown periods. Once markets reopened, “we saw signs of recovery happening immediately,” she said.

As people began to go back to offices, socialize more and attend events, makeup sales began improving. Euromonitor said makeup sales growth should hit 6% to 8% in the Middle East this year.

Abbas said the growth has been faster than expected, even though the market is not likely to bounce back to pre-pandemic levels until 2022 or 2023. She added that “recovery is still on.”

Online shopping is also becoming increasingly important and so is the use of social media. After 2020, more women turned to purchasing their favorite shades of lipstick or foundation online, assisted at times by an augmented reality feature where they could see what they would look like wearing a specific color.

As part of the growing reliance on online shopping, women in the Gulf follow celebrities, influencers, and makeup brands on social media to find out about trends and beauty tips. Huda Kattan, a Dubai-based Iraqi-American beauty magnate, has built a billion-dollar business here on that.



Britain's JD Sports Says Chairman Higginson to Step Down

A branch of JD Sports is seen on a high street in London, Britain April 4, 2025. REUTERS/Maja Smiejkowska/File Photo
A branch of JD Sports is seen on a high street in London, Britain April 4, 2025. REUTERS/Maja Smiejkowska/File Photo
TT

Britain's JD Sports Says Chairman Higginson to Step Down

A branch of JD Sports is seen on a high street in London, Britain April 4, 2025. REUTERS/Maja Smiejkowska/File Photo
A branch of JD Sports is seen on a high street in London, Britain April 4, 2025. REUTERS/Maja Smiejkowska/File Photo

British sportswear retailer JD Sports Fashion said on Wednesday its chairman Andrew Higginson will step down from the role in July.

Higginson has chaired the group since 2022. He will leave after its annual shareholders meeting on July 21, Reuters reported.

Higginson, a retail ⁠veteran who was ⁠a long serving executive at Tesco before chairing Morrisons, oversaw the global expansion of JD Sports with about 40% of its business now ⁠in the United States. He also transformed its governance framework.

Analysts said his imminent departure was a surprise.

JD Sports said its board has started the process to find a successor.

It said independent non-executive director Darren Shapland will become interim chair following the July ⁠AGM ⁠until a permanent chair is appointed.

In January, JD Sports reported a fall in underlying sales over the key Christmas trading period. Its shares are down 9.5% so far this year, giving it a market capitalization of 3.7 billion pounds ($5.0 billion).


Kering Seeks to 'Reignite Desirability' with Gucci Reset

(FILES) This illustrative photograph shows screens displaying the logo of the French company Kering, listed on the CAC 40, the main stock market index of the Paris Stock Exchange, in Toulouse on March 31, 2026. (Photo by Lionel BONAVENTURE / AFP)
(FILES) This illustrative photograph shows screens displaying the logo of the French company Kering, listed on the CAC 40, the main stock market index of the Paris Stock Exchange, in Toulouse on March 31, 2026. (Photo by Lionel BONAVENTURE / AFP)
TT

Kering Seeks to 'Reignite Desirability' with Gucci Reset

(FILES) This illustrative photograph shows screens displaying the logo of the French company Kering, listed on the CAC 40, the main stock market index of the Paris Stock Exchange, in Toulouse on March 31, 2026. (Photo by Lionel BONAVENTURE / AFP)
(FILES) This illustrative photograph shows screens displaying the logo of the French company Kering, listed on the CAC 40, the main stock market index of the Paris Stock Exchange, in Toulouse on March 31, 2026. (Photo by Lionel BONAVENTURE / AFP)

French luxury group Kering vowed Thursday to "reignite desirability" of its flagging Gucci label, once the jet set's most coveted brand, as it seeks to turn around its financial performance.

The giant Paris-based fashion conglomerate, which also owns Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, chose Florence, the birthplace of its flagship double-G brand, to unveil its turnaround plans to investors.

Kering plans a "structural reset" to be completed by the end of the year that will make it more efficient in order to improve margins and restore financial discipline to its brands, AFP quoted the company as saying.

Kering promises to offer "the agility of a challenger, a renewed focus on desirability and a stronger commitment to execution," Chief Executive Luca de Meo said in a statement.

Whether Kering's new plan -- called ReconKering -- will be enough to revive the struggling Gucci brand is yet to be seen, especially given the tough selling environment facing the entire luxury sector amid geopolitical tensions and more cautious consumer spending.

Long the bright spot in Kering's portfolio and the darling of the fashion set before the Covid pandemic, sales of Gucci have since slumped by over a third to six billion euros last year.

While Gucci accounted for two-thirds of Kering's sales in 2019, that share fell to under 40 percent in 2025, pointing to its lackluster reception by luxury shoppers.

Profitability also sagged over this period.

Last year, Kering brought in Georgian Gen Z streetwear favorite Demna as Gucci's new artistic director while poaching De Meo from Renault, where he revitalized the automaker's lineup and financial performance.

Kering said it will go about "reigniting desirability by refocusing the brand around what makes it unmistakably Gucci, with clear creative direction, disciplined codes and a revitalized heritage with true cultural impact."

Sales in Gucci's first quarter declined by 14 percent to 1.35 billion euros, hit by shrinking demand in its key market of China and a cautious consumer environment due to the war in the Middle East.

Shares of Kering fell nearly two percent on the Paris stock exchange, underscoring investor's tepid response to the turnaround plans.

Kering gave few clues as to how exactly it would right the ship at Gucci, which enjoyed its headiest days under designer Tom Ford in the 1990s, who turned the leather goods brand into a fashion powerhouse beloved of the jetset.

"Gucci has had all sorts of issues. It's had issues on distribution. It's had issues on product. It's had issues on pricing," said Flavio Cereda, a luxury sector specialist at GAM, an investment firm, ahead of the investor day.

"Do people care about Gucci today? I don't think they do. Can people care about Gucci in six months' time? It's perfectly possible. We just don't know."

Kering said a new group platform will consolidate key functions such as purchasing, logistics, research and development and quality control for all its brands.

That will allow each brand within the portfolio to operate with more "power, speed and efficiency", Kering said.

For the group as a whole, Kering envisions doubling its recurring operating margin in the medium term to reach at least 22 percent, while improving its return on capital -- another measure of profitability -- by 20 percent, helped by more controlled inventory and selective investments.

By the end of 2028, Kering said, the group "will be in a phase of renewed, sustainable growth."


Kering Shares Slide After Gucci Sales Disappoint

A logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a shop in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. (Reuters)
A logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a shop in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. (Reuters)
TT

Kering Shares Slide After Gucci Sales Disappoint

A logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a shop in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. (Reuters)
A logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a shop in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. (Reuters)

Kering shares plunged as much as 10% on Wednesday after first-quarter sales at its Italian flagship brand Gucci dropped more than expected, underlining the challenges in reviving the brand's appeal.

Gucci sales fell 8%, the 11th straight quarterly decline, as the Iran war weighed on spending by Middle Eastern shoppers and curtailed international travel.

Shares ‌were down ‌8.5% to 255 euros at ‌0827 ⁠GMT and on ⁠track for their steepest daily decline in more than a year.

The result came days before Kering CEO Luca de Meo is due to unveil his strategic plan to turn around the 33-billion-euro ($39 ⁠billion) group's fortunes.

"While guidance was ‌confirmed, the timeline ‌for a Gucci turnaround remains uncertain and likely ‌gradual, against a challenging macro backdrop and ‌ongoing geopolitical tensions," Citi analysts wrote.

Like larger peers LVMH and Hermes, Kering is facing deteriorating demand from customers impacted by the conflict in the ‌Middle East.

Kering said it had seen strong demand for Gucci ⁠products ⁠in North America, but JPMorgan analysts said this was likely a trend for all luxury brands, rather than just Gucci, and pointed to double-digit declines in all other regions.

"This suggests, in our view, that the turnaround will take a lot longer, and much more work, than the bulls would hope for," they said.

Kering shares are down around 7% so far in 2026.