Fashion Industry in Saudi Arabia Shows Off Local Heritage

A creation by Saudi fashion designer Hanan Al-Turki.
A creation by Saudi fashion designer Hanan Al-Turki.
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Fashion Industry in Saudi Arabia Shows Off Local Heritage

A creation by Saudi fashion designer Hanan Al-Turki.
A creation by Saudi fashion designer Hanan Al-Turki.

The Kingdom of Kindah, the city of Thaj, Tantora, and the Hejazi "Rawashin"… all these Saudi Arabian historic treasures are now woven on garments, and widely used in the fashion industry to recall stories from the past, and express the pride of Saudi women in their precious heritage.

“It’s not as easy as it seems,” says Saudi fashion designer Hanan Al-Turki, who uses her drawing talent to weave those landmarks and antiquities on female garments, mostly Abayas. Having a father with a wide interest and knowledge in archeology, Al-Turki obtains the information and historic facts she needs from his archive, which enhances her inspiration based on ancient civilizations in Saudi Arabia.

In an interview with Asharq Al-Awsat, the designer explains that many request her Abayas inspired by Saudi history, noting that her debut in the fashion industry goes back to 2006, when she coincidentally embroidered one of her drawings on an Abaya. The piece was displayed at the time and many loved the idea of it, which encouraged her to move forward in this industry.

"In light of our country’s significant interest in antiquities, I have increasingly focused on drawings inspired by our old heritage and historic landmarks," she said.

The Tantora Abaya, featuring "Qasr al-Farid" or "The Lonely Castle" from the Nabatean Tombs in AlUla region (western Saudi Arabia), is one of Al-Turki's best known designs. The history of Al Diriyah is also featured on one of her Abayas. The designer notes that she had to read many books on this city, its old buildings and the materials used in their construction, engravings, wooden windows, and iron pillars to draw the most beautiful details reflecting its history.

The "Rawashin" and "Mashrabiyas," a prominent Hejazi architecture feature, are among the most requested drawings, says Al-Turki. The designer has managed to seamlessly integrate Mashrabiyas' historic beauty and significance in her designs.

The Abaya inspired by the Kingdom of Kindah highlights the uniqueness of construction, jewelry, and pottery of that era. "It was like a dream. To design this Abaya, I had to watch a video so I can reimagine the picture in my head and assemble the unique details," she noted.

Al-Turki's rich collection includes designs that explore the history of Ḥaʼil, engravings from Al Ahsa region, and the Rashrash necklace (large gold necklace widely known in Saudi Arabia). The designer explained that she used a 3D design technique to integrate special engravings inspired by Najd region, and the Eastern Province as well.

There is also the Saudi Ardah Abaya (Ardah is a Saudi folkloric dance), described by Al-Turki as "bold," because of its vivid colors, and the Asiri Qatt Abaya inspired by the popular murals in Asir region. "I like the idea of delivering an artistic and cultural message in each design. Every piece I make comes with a little note that explains the details of the abaya," the designer said.

These efforts come from a growing enthusiasm among Saudi women to renew the concept of Abayas, and an eagerness to reflect their identity and the authenticity of their country's history in their garments. This trend encouraged many fashion designers to explore new areas that combine modern appearance with heritage, and to use fashion in promoting the value of the Saudi Arabian heritage.



Shein Says US Tariff Hit Won't Stop Fast-fashion Flood

FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
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Shein Says US Tariff Hit Won't Stop Fast-fashion Flood

FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo

Tariffs imposed by the Trump administration will not eject fast-fashion juggernaut Shein from the US market, its executive chairman Donald Tang has told AFP.
The head of the online platform, which has come in for scrutiny over its environmental footprint and allegations of human rights violations, also insisted that the company does not use forced labor.
'Customers not affected'
"We're not focusing on customs policy," Tang said about the new US import levies, speaking during a visit to France this week.
"We will find a way to deliver the goods," he added, saying that Shein's "business model" had seen the company through other global trade upsets like the coronavirus pandemic.
This time, however, China is directly in Washington's crosshairs, with 20-percent additional tariffs levied on products imported from the country.
The Trump administration has also cast doubt on whether imported packages worth less than $800 will continue to enjoy duty-free status.
Shein -- a firm founded in China but now headquartered in Singapore -- and Temu have for years surfed on that practice to send tens of billions of dollars worth of product into the US from their network of Chinese factories.
Tang said that whatever happens, "we will do our best to make sure the customers' interest and customers' experience is not affected" -- without detailing any specifics.
'No forced labor'
Like other major players in the textile sector, Shein has come in for regular allegations of exploiting members of the Uighur minority in the cotton fields and factories of the northwestern Chinese region Xinjiang.
"The policy is zero tolerance" on forced labor, Tang told AFP. "We don't tolerate it at all, no questions asked."
He added that the company had a code of conduct "totally, 100 percent aligned with the International Labor Organization Convention" that it required suppliers to sign.
And once deals are in place, "we have international renowned auditors come into the factories with unannounced visits," Tang said.
David Hachfeld of campaign group Public Eye, which has published an investigation into Shein, said the group's measures had not been enough.
"In manufacturing, 75 hours a week was typical for most workers," Hachfeld said, with "one and a half free days per month".
Amnesty International has also called for Shein to be more transparent.
Any company with operations in Xinjiang should set up human rights checks, the campaign group has argued.
"If Shein has not undertaken this crucial step, it should pause its operations in Xinjiang," Amnesty told AFP by email.
"Conversely, if the company is confident it has eliminated such risks, it should publicly disclose how this has been verified".
Market flotation
Many investors expect Shein to float on a major global stock market sometime this year, with London seen as the most likely venue.
But Tang was not giving away any hints about the plans -- beyond saying that a listing would reinforce trust.
"We wanted to embrace the universal mechanism for accountability and transparency, to have transparency as a requirement, not optionality," he told AFP, hoping to stoke "public trust, which is crucial for our long-term growth".
The head of the British Parliament's Business and Trade Committee said in January he and other members were "horrified" by Shein's lack of transparency about where its products come from.
Tang said that the company has since responded to MPs' questions.
The brand recently announced it will pump 200 million euros ($220 million) into European circular-economy and recycling projects, in a bid to polish its image.
"We have been meeting different companies in Paris and other cities in France and talking to the technology leaders" in the sector, Tang said -- without naming the prospective partners.
Shein will likely face a hard sell when it comes to European environmental groups.
Friends of the Earth calculated in 2023 that Shein's operations -- which it said add around 7,200 new items for sale per day on average -- emit "between 15,000 and 20,000 tons of carbon dioxide" every 24 hours.
The European Union and individual countries including France are already weighing regulations to limit waste from fast-fashion giants.