Libya's Underground Homes Wait for Tourism Revival

The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP
The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP
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Libya's Underground Homes Wait for Tourism Revival

The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP
The interior of a 'damous', a dwelling carved into Libya's arid Nafusa mountains, in Gharyan town, southwest of the capital Tripoli Mahmud TURKIA AFP

Gharyan's unique underground houses were hewn into the mountainside centuries ago, and many lie abandoned, but residents of the Libyan town are hoping tourism can help restore their heritage.

"My great-great-great-great-great-grandfather dug this yard 355 years ago," said Al-Arbi Belhaj, who owns one of the oldest houses in the mixed Berber-Arab town south of Tripoli.

His ancestor would have used a "tajouk" pickaxe to chip away at the ground before loading the rubble into a woven date-palm "gouffa" basket to carry it away, he said.

Dug deep into the arid Nafusa mountains at around 700 meters (2,300 feet) above sea level, the home would have been protected against the scorching summers that bring temperatures up to 45 degrees Celsius (113 Fahrenheit), AFP said.

It would have also stayed warm throughout the often snowy winters.

The region's bedrock has a consistency that allowed the underground dwelling -- known as a damous -- to last for centuries without collapsing.

Some of the buildings are over 2,300 years old, and ancient Greek historians mentioned their existence, according to historian Youssef al-Khattali.

The area also has burial sites dating back to Phoenician times, he added.

Today, Belhaj says he is the owner of the oldest underground home in Gharyan, a town where many residents have family records and property deeds dating back centuries.

The warren of rooms dug into the rock around the courtyard once housed as many as eight large families, he said.

He was the last person to be born there, in 1967.

In 1990, like many people seeking more comfortable dwellings with running water and electricity, the family moved out of the home, but they kept ownership of it.

Now, Belhaj has renovated it and turned it into a tourist attraction.

- 'Designed to be versatile' -
While late dictator Moamer Kadhafi allowed tourists to visit the country on organized trips, visitors have been thin on the ground since his fall in a 2011 revolt, which sparked a decade of chaos.

But the region's Berber villages have continued to attract domestic tourists, and Belhaj is hoping that a return to relative stability could open the door to more visitors from Europe and elsewhere.

He charges an entry fee equivalent to a dollar for Libyans, or two for foreigners.

While some come for a cup of tea and to explore the building, others stay for lunch or spend the entire day there.

Damous structures were once common across a stretch of western Libya and eastern Tunisia -- the other side of a border only drawn up in 1886.

"The same tribes extend from Nalut to Gabes," said historian Khattali, referring to towns on the Libyan and Tunisian sides.

Their sites were carefully chosen and the buildings painstakingly excavated by hand to avoid them collapsing in the process.

In 1936, they attracted the attention of colonial power Italy, featuring in a tourist guide.

And they were not just used as homes.

"First of all, there were underground dwellings for humans and their animals, then buildings intended as places of worship," Khattali said, referring to synagogues and churches that were mostly later converted to mosques.

Some were also used as defenses, he said.

"You can still make out the traces of fortifications in certain parts of the mountain, including the remains of watchtowers."

The buildings "were designed to be versatile, and they've stood the test of time," Khattali said.

"That's why they're so important in the history of Libyan architecture."



Prince Harry's Lawsuit against The Sun is Part of a Long Saga of Alleged Tabloid Misbehavior

FILE PHOTO: Britain's Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex, departs the Rolls Building of the High Court in London, Britain June 7, 2023. REUTERS/Hannah McKay/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Britain's Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex, departs the Rolls Building of the High Court in London, Britain June 7, 2023. REUTERS/Hannah McKay/File Photo
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Prince Harry's Lawsuit against The Sun is Part of a Long Saga of Alleged Tabloid Misbehavior

FILE PHOTO: Britain's Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex, departs the Rolls Building of the High Court in London, Britain June 7, 2023. REUTERS/Hannah McKay/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Britain's Prince Harry, Duke of Sussex, departs the Rolls Building of the High Court in London, Britain June 7, 2023. REUTERS/Hannah McKay/File Photo

Prince Harry’s trial against the publisher of The Sun, which opens Tuesday, follows two decades of legal drama over the cutthroat practices of the British press in the days when newspapers sold millions of copies and shaped the popular conversation.
The scandal destroyed a Rupert Murdoch -owned newspaper and cost Murdoch hundreds of millions of dollars to settle lawsuits from the targets of tabloid attention. And it fueled Harry’s quest to tame the British press, which he blames for dividing his family, blighting his life and hounding both his late mother Princess Diana and his wife, Meghan Markle, The Associated Press said.
Here are key moments in the saga:
November 2005 Murdoch’s Sunday tabloid the News of the World reports that Prince William has a knee injury. A Buckingham Palace complaint prompts a police inquiry that reveals information for the story came from a voicemail that was hacked.
January 2007 Glenn Mulcaire, a private investigator working for the News of the World, is sentenced to six months in prison and the paper’s royal editor Clive Goodman to four months for hacking the phones of royal aides to listen to messages left by William and others. Goodman later acknowledges hacking William’s phone 35 times and that of his then-girlfriend Kate Middleton — now Princess of Wales — more than 150 times.
Murdoch’s company initially maintains that the illicit behavior was the work of two rogue employees working without editors’ knowledge.
January 2011 British police reopen an investigation into tabloid phone hacking after the News of the World says it has found “significant new information.”
April 2011 The News of the World admits liability for phone hacking. The following month, it agrees to pay actress Sienna Miller 100,000 pounds to settle a hacking lawsuit. Since then, Murdoch’s News Corp. has paid to settle claims by scores of celebrities, politicians, athletes and others against both the News of the World and its sister tabloid, The Sun – though it has never accepted liability for hacking by The Sun.
July 2011 The Guardian newspaper reports that News of the World journalists hacked the phone of Milly Dowler, a murdered 13-year-old schoolgirl, while police were searching for her in 2002. The revelation causes public outrage, and prompts Murdoch to shut down the 168-year-old News of the World.
November 2012 A judge-led inquiry into media ethics ordered by then-Prime Minister David Cameron concludes that “outrageous” behavior by some in the press had “wreaked havoc with the lives of innocent people whose rights and liberties have been disdained.” Judge Brian Leveson recommends the creation of a strong press watchdog, backed by government regulation. His findings have only been partially implemented.
October 2013 Former News of the World editors Andy Coulson and Rebekah Brooks go on trial alongside several other defendants at London’s Central Criminal Court on charges of phone hacking and illegal payments to officials. After an eight-month trial, Coulson is convicted and sentenced to 18 months in prison. Brooks is acquitted. She is now chief executive of Murdoch’s British newspaper business.
December 2015 England’s chief prosecutor says there will be no more criminal cases against Murdoch’s UK company or its employees, or against 10 people under investigation from the rival Mirror Group Newspapers, including former Daily Mirror editor Piers Morgan. Both companies continue to pay to settle hacking lawsuits.
2019-onwards Prince Harry launches lawsuits against three newspaper groups – Murdoch's News Group, the Mirror Group and Associated Newspapers. He claims stories about his schooldays, teenage shenanigans and relationships with girlfriends were obtained by hacking, bugging, deception or other forms of illegal intrusion.
February 2021 Harry’s wife Meghan wins an invasion of privacy lawsuit against Daily Mail publisher Associated Newspapers over publication of a letter she wrote in 2018 to her estranged father.
June 2023 Harry testifies in his case against the Mirror Group, becoming the first British royal in more than a century to appear in the witness box.
December 2023 Harry wins his case against the Mirror Group when a judge rules that Mirror newspapers had hired private investigators to snoop for personal information and engaged in illegal phone hacking for well over a decade. He is awarded legal costs and 140,000 pounds in damages.
February 2024 The Mirror Group agrees to pay Harry legal costs and undisclosed damages to settle outstanding claims. Harry says he is vindicated and vows: “Our mission continues.”
Jan. 21, 2025 The trial is due to open in lawsuits by Harry and former Labor Party lawmaker Tom Watson against The Sun. They are the only two remaining from among dozens of claimants after others accepted settlements rather than risk potentially ruinous legal bills. The prince is due to testify in person during the 10-week trial.
Harry’s case against Associated Newspapers, which publishes the Daily Mail, is ongoing.