Libya Traditional Jewelery Hangs on by Silver Thread

A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP
A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP
TT

Libya Traditional Jewelery Hangs on by Silver Thread

A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP
A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP

n Tripoli's Old City, young Libyans weave delicate patterns with threads of silver and gold to create traditional filigree jewelry -- reviving an art almost lost through decades of dictatorship and war.

Abdelmajid Zeglam is just 12 years old, but his minutely detailed creations are already selling fast in the streets around a Roman-era archway dedicated to emperor Marcus Aurelius, AFP said.

"I hesitated at first for fear of failing because I'm young, but my mum encouraged me," Zeglam said.

He is the youngest of 20 or so students, around half of them female, studying at the Libyan Academy for Traditional Gold and Silver Crafts, in a building that once served as a French consulate to the Ottoman Empire.

Trainees learn about precious metal alloys before studying the art of filigree, in which beads and threads of the precious materials are woven into intricate designs then soldered together to create jewelry.

"I love it," Zeglam said. "I want to become a petroleum engineer in the mornings and a jeweler in the afternoons."

Mohamed al-Miloudi, a 22-year-old civil engineering student in a baseball cap, said he had not missed a class since signing up in September.

"It's a hobby, but I'd like to make it into my trade," he said.

The institute's founder, Abdelnasser Aboughress, said filigree jewelry was an ancient tradition in the North African country.

"Craftsmen in the medina of Tripoli were trained by Jewish masters and later by Arabs, at the prestigious School of Arts and Trades" founded in the late 19th century, he said.

- Secret jewelers -
But generations of tradition were abruptly halted after Moamer Kadhafi took power in a 1969 coup.

The capricious ruler scrapped the constitution and established his "jamahiriya" -- a medley of socialism, Arab nationalism and tribal patronage.

He also scrapped the private sector, seizing companies and confiscating their assets.

Overnight, self-employed artisans lost everything: their workshops, their livelihoods and their students.

"The state reduced Libyan crafts to nothing and forced a generation of young apprentices, who should have taken up the baton, to instead leave the traditional crafts and join the army" or become civil servants, said Aboughress.

The 55-year-old was born just a few streets away in the medina, and despite Kadhafi's ban, he took up the craft at the age of 15.

Along with his father, for decades he worked in secret on jewelry for trusted clients.

Now, he hopes to pass the craft on to younger generations, as well as fighting back against a tide of "lower-quality jewelry imported from Egypt and China (which) has flooded the market".

Aboughress is working on a project to document and preserve as much of this cultural heritage as possible.

- 'People with passion' -
Student Fatima Boussoua hit out at the practice of selling old Libyan silver jewelry at cheap prices to be exported then melted down.

"It's part of Libya's artisanal heritage that's disappearing!" she said.

A dentist in her 40s who also teaches at the University of Tripoli, Boussoua has been training at the center for the past year, hoping to master the craft.

"We should be training artists to preserve our heritage," she said. "All it needs is people with passion."

While becoming a true expert takes years of training, Aboughress's students are already producing works for sale online or at the center itself.

That said, he admits the project needs financial help to buy the expensive raw materials -- as well as "moral support".

He hopes that with enough resources, he will one day be able to set up a string of other workshops across Libya.

"It's time to bring this craft back to life," he said.



China Looks to Spur Births, Aid Families in Fight on Shrinking Population

 Tourists visit Jiayu Pass, a strategic point of the Great Wall of China along the ancient "Silk Road," near the city of Jiayuguan in China's northwestern Gansu province on Monday, Oct. 28, 2024. (AP)
Tourists visit Jiayu Pass, a strategic point of the Great Wall of China along the ancient "Silk Road," near the city of Jiayuguan in China's northwestern Gansu province on Monday, Oct. 28, 2024. (AP)
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China Looks to Spur Births, Aid Families in Fight on Shrinking Population

 Tourists visit Jiayu Pass, a strategic point of the Great Wall of China along the ancient "Silk Road," near the city of Jiayuguan in China's northwestern Gansu province on Monday, Oct. 28, 2024. (AP)
Tourists visit Jiayu Pass, a strategic point of the Great Wall of China along the ancient "Silk Road," near the city of Jiayuguan in China's northwestern Gansu province on Monday, Oct. 28, 2024. (AP)

China outlined steps on Monday to improve family planning and parenting measures in an effort to boost the number of births, a statement from the state council, or cabinet, showed, after two consecutive years of a shrinking population.

The birth rate hit a record low last year in China, which has a population of 1.4 billion, as fellow Asian giant India outpaced it to become the world's most populous nation.

The state council called for efforts to build "a new marriage and childbearing culture" by spreading respect for childbearing, marriages at the right age, and parents' shared responsibility for childcare.

Measures on offer are better maternity insurance, maternity leave, subsidies and medical resources for children, with the cabinet urging local governments to budget for childcare centers and levy preferential taxes and fees for such services.

"Supporting childbirth at this stage is of great significance," said Yang Chang, chief policy analyst at Zhongtai Securities Research Institute, adding that Monday's announcement would serve as a template for future measures.

With the number of women of childbearing age between 15 and 49 likely to decline, and willingness to bear children not expected to rise soon, policy support was key to help reverse the downward trend in births, he added.

Although China abandoned its 35-year-old one-child policy in 2015, it has struggled to get the birth rate up, particularly as the period saw rural people stream into the cities for jobs.

Education is another area targeted, with local authorities asked to step up financial aid for students from disadvantaged families, with a mention of the "gradual expansion of the scope of free education".

Local authorities were also told to assist with the burden of housing and employment, by providing more support for families with multiple children to buy homes, and beef up protection for pregnant women and new mothers among workers.

Setting up non-commercial platforms for young people to make friends, date and get married was another way to encourage births, the cabinet said.

Monday's measures follow a survey this month by health officials seeking to understand the factors governing attitudes towards childbearing and the fear around having offspring.