Libya Traditional Jewelery Hangs on by Silver Thread

A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP
A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP
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Libya Traditional Jewelery Hangs on by Silver Thread

A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP
A Libyan woman crafts a piece of traditional filigree jewelry. Mahmud Turkia AFP

n Tripoli's Old City, young Libyans weave delicate patterns with threads of silver and gold to create traditional filigree jewelry -- reviving an art almost lost through decades of dictatorship and war.

Abdelmajid Zeglam is just 12 years old, but his minutely detailed creations are already selling fast in the streets around a Roman-era archway dedicated to emperor Marcus Aurelius, AFP said.

"I hesitated at first for fear of failing because I'm young, but my mum encouraged me," Zeglam said.

He is the youngest of 20 or so students, around half of them female, studying at the Libyan Academy for Traditional Gold and Silver Crafts, in a building that once served as a French consulate to the Ottoman Empire.

Trainees learn about precious metal alloys before studying the art of filigree, in which beads and threads of the precious materials are woven into intricate designs then soldered together to create jewelry.

"I love it," Zeglam said. "I want to become a petroleum engineer in the mornings and a jeweler in the afternoons."

Mohamed al-Miloudi, a 22-year-old civil engineering student in a baseball cap, said he had not missed a class since signing up in September.

"It's a hobby, but I'd like to make it into my trade," he said.

The institute's founder, Abdelnasser Aboughress, said filigree jewelry was an ancient tradition in the North African country.

"Craftsmen in the medina of Tripoli were trained by Jewish masters and later by Arabs, at the prestigious School of Arts and Trades" founded in the late 19th century, he said.

- Secret jewelers -
But generations of tradition were abruptly halted after Moamer Kadhafi took power in a 1969 coup.

The capricious ruler scrapped the constitution and established his "jamahiriya" -- a medley of socialism, Arab nationalism and tribal patronage.

He also scrapped the private sector, seizing companies and confiscating their assets.

Overnight, self-employed artisans lost everything: their workshops, their livelihoods and their students.

"The state reduced Libyan crafts to nothing and forced a generation of young apprentices, who should have taken up the baton, to instead leave the traditional crafts and join the army" or become civil servants, said Aboughress.

The 55-year-old was born just a few streets away in the medina, and despite Kadhafi's ban, he took up the craft at the age of 15.

Along with his father, for decades he worked in secret on jewelry for trusted clients.

Now, he hopes to pass the craft on to younger generations, as well as fighting back against a tide of "lower-quality jewelry imported from Egypt and China (which) has flooded the market".

Aboughress is working on a project to document and preserve as much of this cultural heritage as possible.

- 'People with passion' -
Student Fatima Boussoua hit out at the practice of selling old Libyan silver jewelry at cheap prices to be exported then melted down.

"It's part of Libya's artisanal heritage that's disappearing!" she said.

A dentist in her 40s who also teaches at the University of Tripoli, Boussoua has been training at the center for the past year, hoping to master the craft.

"We should be training artists to preserve our heritage," she said. "All it needs is people with passion."

While becoming a true expert takes years of training, Aboughress's students are already producing works for sale online or at the center itself.

That said, he admits the project needs financial help to buy the expensive raw materials -- as well as "moral support".

He hopes that with enough resources, he will one day be able to set up a string of other workshops across Libya.

"It's time to bring this craft back to life," he said.



'The Herds' Begins its Journey from Central Africa to the Arctic Circle

Puppeteers move cardboard animals through DRC's capital Kinshasa's botanical gardens Thursday, April 10, 2025, the first steps of "The Herds". (AP Photo/Samy Ntumba Shambuyi)
Puppeteers move cardboard animals through DRC's capital Kinshasa's botanical gardens Thursday, April 10, 2025, the first steps of "The Herds". (AP Photo/Samy Ntumba Shambuyi)
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'The Herds' Begins its Journey from Central Africa to the Arctic Circle

Puppeteers move cardboard animals through DRC's capital Kinshasa's botanical gardens Thursday, April 10, 2025, the first steps of "The Herds". (AP Photo/Samy Ntumba Shambuyi)
Puppeteers move cardboard animals through DRC's capital Kinshasa's botanical gardens Thursday, April 10, 2025, the first steps of "The Herds". (AP Photo/Samy Ntumba Shambuyi)

In the Kinshasa Botanical Garden, a troupe of cardboard animals – monkeys, a gorilla, leopards, a giraffe – stand at attention in a clearing.

Their handlers, puppeteers dressed in black, begin to move slowly through the woods, eventually picking up speed and breaking out into a run.

These were the first steps of “The Herds,” a moving theater performance made up of cardboard puppet animals that flee from the Democratic Republic of Congo to the Arctic Circle in a bid to bring attention to the climate crisis.

This week, the puppet animals started their journey in Kinshasa, the capital of the DRC in central Africa, according to The Associated Press.

The story goes that the animals will be forced out of their natural habitats due to global warming and displaced north, stopping in cities along the way and being joined by more animals.

Just meters away a real-life example of climate change: Part of the botanical garden lay under floodwaters left over from massive flooding earlier this week that left half the city inaccessible and killed dozens. The sight brought “The Herds” story to life in a bleak way. The main event planned in the center of Kinshasa on Friday was canceled because of the heavy rain.

“The Herds” comes from the team that was behind “The Walk” in 2021, in which a 12-foot tall puppet of a refugee girl called Little Amal drew attention to the refugee crisis by traveling to 15 countries — from Türkiye to the UK, Ukraine, Mexico and the US.

Tshoper Kabambi, a Congolese filmmaker and producer, is working on “The Herds” as its DRC producer. He said “The Herds” main goal is to raise awareness.

“Nature is very important to us. But humans have a tendency to neglect nature,” he said. “We want to raise awareness among people about everything that is happening. You have seen the floods all over the world, global warming, deforestation.”

“The Herds” will stay in Kinshasa until Saturday before moving onto Lagos, Nigeria, and Dakar, Senegal.

“The Herds” organizers say the significance of starting in Congo lies in the fact that the country is home to the second biggest rainforest in the world. The Congo Basin serves as one of the planet’s “lungs,” the other being the Amazon Rainforest.

They say much less attention has been focused on Congo’s rainforest, but it is still in dire need of protection.

Congolese artists were an integral part of “The Herds” opening act, just as artists from other countries will be as the project moves north.

Amir Nizar Zuabi was on that team and is now the artistic director of “The Herds.” He was also a part of “The Walk.”

“I think one of the big impacts of this project is the fact that this project is happening in 20 different cities,” he said. “It will travel through different cultures, different places, and it accumulates. And it will tell the story of the Congo also in Norway, because we have partners everywhere.”