Mexico Weaves Fashion Policy to Help Indigenous Communities

A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP
A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP
TT

Mexico Weaves Fashion Policy to Help Indigenous Communities

A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP
A model walks down the runway at the 'Original' fashion show in Mexico City Rodrigo Oropeza AFP

Clothing designers inspired by traditional Mexican motifs, embroidery and colors are exhibiting their work at a fashion fair in Mexico City promoted by the government to support marginalized Indigenous communities.

Traditional blouses made by the Tzotzil people of Chiapas, embroidered patterns from Michoacan and shirts from Oaxaca were among the garments on show at the first of seven parades at the "Original" event, AFP said.

"The creation of each product made in our community is a legacy of our ancestors," said Carlos Alberto Delgado Martinez, one of around 500 exhibitors at the event, which runs until Sunday at the Los Pinos former presidential residence.

"It's important that we artisans save our culture and defend it from plagiarism because each garment has a meaning. Each embroidery has an explanation," he added.

As with the first edition in 2021, "Original" aims to fight what Mexico calls plagiarism of Indigenous textiles by foreign clothing brands, and to create a more equitable fashion industry.

"We're not opposed to (the big fashion houses) using motifs of pre-Hispanic origin" as long as they recognize "the intellectual work and creativity" of Mexican artisans, President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador said Friday.

"The government is pursuing a policy of rehabilitating the dignity of Indigenous peoples," Lopez Obrador's spokesman Jesus Ramirez Cuevas told AFP.

"Mexico would not be what it is without its Indigenous peoples," he said, underlining the government's social programs for impoverished such communities.

"It's time for them to play a central role in the construction of the (country's) identity. Today, we recognize their art," he added.

Mexico has lodged several complaints against major clothing brands including Zara, Mango and SHEIN for alleged cultural appropriation.

Last month it won an apology from US fashion house Ralph Lauren after Lopez Obrador's wife Beatriz Gutierrez accused it of plagiarizing Indigenous designs.

French designer Isabel Marant also apologized in 2020 for the use of the traditional patterns from an Indigenous community.

Mexico's culture ministry has called for "ethical collaboration" between clothing brands and artisans.

"No to plagiarism. No to cultural appropriation. Yes to original creations and the communities behind them," Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto said.

The government is also trying to retrieve pre-Hispanic archaeological pieces from abroad and stop foreign auctions of such items that Lopez Obrador has branded "immoral."

"You want to buy Mexican art? Buy this one, which is alive," Frausto said, pointing to models dressed in blouses, shirts and belts made by Indigenous artisans.



Designer Rosita Missoni, Pioneer of Colored Knitwear, Dies Aged 93

Rosita Missoni poses before the Missoni Spring/Summer 2018 show at the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy September 23, 2017. (Reuters)
Rosita Missoni poses before the Missoni Spring/Summer 2018 show at the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy September 23, 2017. (Reuters)
TT

Designer Rosita Missoni, Pioneer of Colored Knitwear, Dies Aged 93

Rosita Missoni poses before the Missoni Spring/Summer 2018 show at the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy September 23, 2017. (Reuters)
Rosita Missoni poses before the Missoni Spring/Summer 2018 show at the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy September 23, 2017. (Reuters)

Italian designer Rosita Missoni, co-founder of the eponymous fashion house known for its bright and patterned styles, died on Thursday at the age of 93, a company official said.

She had launched the business in 1953 with her husband Ottavio Missoni, developing a brand which became popular for its colorful knitwear featuring geometric patterns and stripes, including the signature zigzag motif known as fiammato.

Born into a family of textile artisans close to the northern Italian town of Varese, Rosita studied modern languages.

On a trip to London in 1948 to improve her English, she met Ottavio, who was competing with the Italian 400 meters hurdles team at the Olympics in the city.

The Missoni brand gained international recognition and awards for its distinctive patterns and avant-garde use of textiles and an approach to fashion often compared to modern art.

It was also helped by what was dubbed the "battle of the bras" in 1967.

Missoni had been invited to show at the Pitti Palace in Florence but before the models went out on the runways Rosita noticed that their bras were visible through their tops, ruining the intended color and pattern effect.

She told the models to remove their bras but, under the runway lighting, their outfits became totally transparent and the incident caused a sensation.

They were not invited to return the next year but Missoni was quickly on the covers of big name fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Marie Claire.

Their layered designs, full of patterns, caught the attention of a fashion world that was turning away from high fashion, and became the standard bearer of the so-called "put together" style.

When the company moved its base to the Italian town of Sumirago, north of Milan, the Missonis set up home next door, with most of their windows overlooking Rosita's beloved Monte Rosa mountains.

Rosita remained creative director for the womenswear collections until the late 1990s, when she passed the task on to her daughter Angela.

The couple suffered tragedy in 2013 when Vittorio Missoni, their eldest son and the company marketing director, was killed in a plane crash off the coast of Venezuela.

Ottavio died in May 2013 at the age of 92, four months after their son's plane had gone missing but before the wreckage had been found.

The brand expanded into home collections and hotels. In 2018 Italian investment fund FSI invested 70 million euros in the family-owned company in exchange for a 41% stake, aiming to strengthen the brand abroad.

Missoni picked Rothschild in 2023 as financial adviser to explore a potential sale of the family-owned company.