Luxury Group LVMH's Sales Defy Downturn

People walk past the Louis Vuitton store at Miami Design District, in Miami, Florida, US November 30, 2021. REUTERS/Marco Bello/File Photo
People walk past the Louis Vuitton store at Miami Design District, in Miami, Florida, US November 30, 2021. REUTERS/Marco Bello/File Photo
TT
20

Luxury Group LVMH's Sales Defy Downturn

People walk past the Louis Vuitton store at Miami Design District, in Miami, Florida, US November 30, 2021. REUTERS/Marco Bello/File Photo
People walk past the Louis Vuitton store at Miami Design District, in Miami, Florida, US November 30, 2021. REUTERS/Marco Bello/File Photo

Luxury goods group LVMH's sales rose 9% in the fourth quarter as shoppers in Europe and the United States splurged over the crucial holiday season, helping to partly offset COVID disruptions in China.

Sales at the world's biggest luxury group reached 22.7 billion euros ($24.65 billion) in the final three months of the year, with the 9% increase on an organic basis a touch above analyst expectations for 7% growth, based on a consensus cited by UBS.

That marked a deceleration from the 20% growth recorded in the first nine months of the year, due to the hit in China from lockdowns and its subsequent exit from a zero-COVID policy, which has spurred a surge of infections in the world's second-largest economy.

"China was sharply down in the fourth quarter," the group's finance chief, Jean-Jacques Guiony, told reporters.

"The Chinese market has been complicated due to the health restrictions ... the second quarter was difficult, the third one better and the fourth one complex again," he said, adding the pandemic had "spread like wildfire" after Beijing authorities relaxed travel curbs in December, causing problems in warehouses, stores and distribution networks.

"Everybody was sick, it's as simple as that" he said. The situation had however markedly improved since the beginning of the year.

LVMH, a conglomerate spanning spirits, jewelry, cosmetics and fashion which is regarded as a bellwether for the wider luxury industry, does not give a breakdown for its brands.

But it said that in 2022 its star designer label Louis Vuitton surpassed 20 billion euros in sales for the first time -- around a quarter of total group revenues for the year.

LVMH has gained market share every year since 2019, said its boss Bernard Arnault, the world's richest man. The group proposed a dividend of 12 euros per share, up from 10 euros a year ago.

"Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Celine, Fendi, Loro Piana, Loewe, and Marc Jacobs are all gaining market share globally and reaching record levels of revenue and earnings," said Luca Solca, luxury analyst at Bernstein, referring to LVMH's fashion and leather goods brands.

LVMH's shares have hit new highs this month, giving the luxury goods group a market capitalization of 400 billion euros for the first time and cementing its lead as Europe's most valuable company, Reuters reported.

Analysts expect a strong return of Chinese shoppers – the main source of profits for luxury companies before the pandemic - after three years of COVID disruptions to boost the industry this year.

But the sector is likely to still see a slowdown overall after two years of stellar growth, with demand easing in the United States and Europe, where rising prices have prompted some high-end spenders to tighten their purse strings.

"With the month of January having started well and despite an uncertain geopolitical and economic environment, LVMH is confident in its ability to continue the growth observed in 2022," the group said.



Shein Gains UK Approval for London IPO, Awaits China Nod

FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
TT
20

Shein Gains UK Approval for London IPO, Awaits China Nod

FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A company logo for fashion brand Shein is seen on a pile of gift bags on its Christmas bus as part of a nationwide promotional tour in Liverpool, Britain, December 14, 2024. REUTERS/Phil Noble/File Photo

Online fast-fashion retailer Shein has secured approval from Britain's Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) for its planned initial public offering in London, according to two sources with knowledge of the matter.

The FCA's approval marks a significant step forward in the China-founded company's pursuit of a London listing after it confidentially filed papers with the British regulator last June.

But it will also have to contend with market turmoil caused by US President Donald Trump's 145% tariffs on Chinese goods and tighter rules on duty-free shipments from China to the US.

Shein, which sells $10 dresses and $12 jeans in more than 150 countries and was valued at $66 billion in its last fundraising round in 2023, will also need to secure approvals from Chinese regulators, notably the China Securities Regulatory Commission (CSRC), for the London float, sources have said.

The company in recent weeks informed the CSRC of the FCA's approval but has yet to receive a green light from the regulator, said one of the sources. They declined to be named as the information remains private.

Shein and the FCA declined to comment, while the CSRC did not respond to a request for comment.

Shein, whose clothes are produced at thousands of factories mostly in China, last year sought Beijing's approval to go public in London, despite the company having moved its headquarters from Nanjing, China, to Singapore in 2022.

Shein's filing with the CSRC makes it subject to Beijing's new listing rules for Chinese firms going public offshore, sources have said.

Shein does not own or operate any manufacturing facilities and instead sources its products from around 5,800 third-party contract manufacturers mainly in China, subjecting it to the CSRC's listing rules, a separate source said previously.

The rules are applied on "a substance over form" basis, giving the CSRC discretion on when and how to implement them, the source added.

Shein ships the majority of its products directly to shoppers by air in individually addressed packages.

Under the CSRC's rules, a host of authorities such as the National Development and Reform Commission, which supervises foreign holdings in local firms, the cybersecurity regulator and others may get involved in approving offshore IPO applications.

'DE MINIMIS' ISSUES

Shein, founded by China-born entrepreneur Sky Xu, initially aimed to go public in London in the first half of this year, contingent on securing approvals from regulators in both the UK and China, Reuters reported in January.

But its prospects have come under a cloud in recent months as the Trump administration moved to end the "de minimis" duty exemption, which allows shipments worth less than $800 duty-free entry to the US and has helped Shein keep prices low.

Trump last week signed an executive order ending de minimis for shipments from China and Hong Kong effective on May 2.

The measure's removal could force it to hike prices in the US, its biggest market, though the change has been widely expected and Shein has sought to adapt by adding suppliers in Brazil and Türkiye.

The development, along with market turmoil caused by Trump's tariffs on China, could also delay the fast-fashion group's original IPO schedule to the second half of the year, said the sources.

In February, Reuters reported that Shein was set to cut its valuation in a potential listing to around $50 billion, nearly a quarter less than the $66 billion valuation it achieved in a $2 billion private fundraising in 2023.

Shein's eventual IPO valuation will hinge on the impact of the de minimis termination on its business, sources have said. The amount to be raised in the IPO remains unclear.

Trump's trade war with China has more broadly triggered fears of resurgent inflation and weaker consumer spending in the US, muddying the outlook for retailers including Shein and its Chinese discount goods rival Temu.

The stock market volatility of the past week also makes pricing an IPO very challenging, and has caused companies like Swedish fintech Klarna to pause their listing plans.

Shein last year shifted its focus to a London listing, ending an attempt at a US IPO after pushback from US lawmakers concerned about alleged labor practices in its supply chain in China.

Shein has said it has a zero-tolerance policy for forced labor and child labor in its supply chain.