Pompadour & Rooster Cuts: Iraqi Styles Sculpt 'Revolution'

Iraqi anti-government protesters are expressing their rebellion against the existing social order via wild hairstyles | AFP
Iraqi anti-government protesters are expressing their rebellion against the existing social order via wild hairstyles | AFP
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Pompadour & Rooster Cuts: Iraqi Styles Sculpt 'Revolution'

Iraqi anti-government protesters are expressing their rebellion against the existing social order via wild hairstyles | AFP
Iraqi anti-government protesters are expressing their rebellion against the existing social order via wild hairstyles | AFP

Elvis Presley may have been the advance guard, but young Iraqis own it -- protesters in Baghdad sport slicked styles and rockabilly haircuts, a testament to their unyielding rebel spirit.

"The revolution has changed everything," said Qassem, nearly three months into a popular movement that seeks to unseat Iraq's highly dysfunctional political establishment.

"Now, it is all so different -- we are free," the young protester added under a tent where he doles out tea and biscuits to peers in Tahrir Square.

"We also know how to let loose," Qassem continued, his face switching suddenly from serious to smiling.

"And so I invented a new style," he chuckled, glancing upwards towards his rectangular pompadour.

Outside his tent, thousands of students and young unemployed people thronged the iconic square, railing once more against "crooked" politicians.

Their enthusiasm has remained undimmed since the start of the revolt on October 1, despite clashes with security forces that have killed close to 460.

One thing strikes the eye perhaps above all else -- the unbridled hairstyles young men sport.

High quiffs, tight fades, and loads of attitude -- it is quite the male beauty pageant.

- 'Why be scared?' -

Exclusively male and in large part inspired by the fashionable cuts of football stars, the phenomenon is coursing through the Arab world.

And it is particularly exuberant in Tahrir Square.

"Here, we call it the rooster comb," explained a local journalist.

For 23-year-old actor and renowned activist Omar Dabbour, "the style began two years ago".

Then "it exploded with the revolution in Tahrir. The people feel increasingly free," he noted.

Dabbour himself sports an impressive, albeit more natural, style -- an afro worthy of the Jackson Five, which amounts to a radical departure, in what is otherwise an ocean of hair gel.

"In Tahrir Square, young people are daring -- it has become normal," added Dabbour.

"But in the rest of the city, it's a bit different -- more conservative. There is the army, the militiamen who can bother you at checkpoints," he continued.

"I don't care. Before, I had a short haircut. Now I have let it grow. Why be scared?"

Sporting yellow-tinted glasses and maintaining a studious air, Karrar Riad, 20, pushed a hand through his long and deliberately disordered locks.

With a black leather bracelet, he has the air of a young Johnny Depp. "Today, everything is possible. We do what we want here," he said.

Here perhaps, but not in Riad's home district of Kadhimiya, which houses a key Shiite mausoleum.

Going home requires him to restore some conventional order to his unruly mop.

Other fashionistos don a cap to blend back in when they depart the protest hotbed.

Their caution is not without reason.

In 2012, at least 15 youths were stoned, beaten, or shot to death in a spate of targeted attacks against people sporting the "emo" look -- tight-fitting black clothes and alternative hairstyles.

- Voluminous proliferation -

The range of styles is wide, but it is Iraq's take on the Elvis cut that rises head and shoulders above the rest: a towering pompadour with undercut back and sides.

"Adopted by celebrities, students and hipsters," the pompadour -- named after a mistress of French King Louis XV -- will transform you into a "sexy and trendy man", according to one website.

But this style itself unfurls into a multitude of sub-styles in Iraq, from classic rockabilly to even the mohawk.

And amid the proliferation of looks, cuts are becoming ever more voluminous.

"The idea is to do what you want to do," said Dabbour.

And probably also to attract the throngs of young women who frequent Tahrir Square, in a commingling that is unusual in Iraq.

The hairstyles on display have "roots in the 1990s, in the hairdressing salons, and male beauty parlors of Sadr City," explained Zahraa Ghandour, an Iraqi documentary filmmaker.

Sadr City -- a huge working-class district of northeastern Baghdad -- was marginalized under the regime of deposed dictator Saddam Hussein.

"The residents wanted to mark themselves out. It was a means to express themselves, to protest," said Ghandour.

Baroque haircuts, meanwhile, "really started around two years ago, again in Sadr city."

Zouheir-al-Atouani, a local videographer who has gained nationwide fame, spread this style by posting wedding videos in which men sport ever more sculpted looks.

According to Ghandour, "in Tahrir, ever more frequented by young people from Sadr city, it's a way to rebel, to free oneself".

It is also most likely a way of defying the country's all-powerful militias, and social revenge for young people who feel despised, yet now find themselves at the forefront of fashion.

"They are especially creative," smiles Ghandour.

And the styles are "spread far and wide by social networks", where dandies love to showcase their ever crazier cuts.



Oldest Known Whale Recording Could Unlock Mysteries of the Ocean

Carcasses of pilot whales found on Macquarie Heads beach on the west coast of Tasmania in 2022 (AFP)
Carcasses of pilot whales found on Macquarie Heads beach on the west coast of Tasmania in 2022 (AFP)
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Oldest Known Whale Recording Could Unlock Mysteries of the Ocean

Carcasses of pilot whales found on Macquarie Heads beach on the west coast of Tasmania in 2022 (AFP)
Carcasses of pilot whales found on Macquarie Heads beach on the west coast of Tasmania in 2022 (AFP)

A haunting whale song discovered on decades-old audio equipment could open up a new understanding of how the huge animals communicate, according to researchers who say it’s the oldest such recording known.

The song is that of a humpback whale, a marine giant beloved by whale watchers for its docile nature and spectacular leaps from the water, and was recorded by scientists in March 1949 in Bermuda, said researchers at Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in Falmouth, Massachusetts.

Just as significant is the sound of the surrounding ocean itself, said Peter Tyack, a marine bioacoustician and emeritus research scholar at Woods Hole. The ocean of the late 1940s was much quieter than the ocean of today, providing a different backdrop than scientists are used to hearing for whale song, he said, The AP news reported.

The recovered recordings “not only allow us to follow whale sounds, but they also tell us what the ocean soundscape was like in the late 1940s,” Tyack said. “That’s very difficult to reconstruct otherwise.”

A preserved recording from the 1940s can also help scientists better understand how new human-made sounds, such as increased shipping noise, affect the way whales communicate, Tyack said. Research published by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration states that whales can vary their calling behavior depending on noises in their environment.

The recording predates scientist Roger Payne's discovery of whale song by nearly 20 years. Woods Hole scientists on a research vessel at the time were testing sonar systems and performing acoustic experiments along with the US Office of Naval Research when they captured the sound, said Ashley Jester, director of research data and library services at Woods Hole.

The scientists didn't know what they were hearing, but they decided to record and save the sounds anyway, Jester said.

“And they were curious. And so they kept this recorder running, and they even made time to make recordings where they weren't making any noise from their ships on purpose just to hear as much as they could,” said Jester. “And they kept these recordings.”

Woods Hole scientists discovered the song while digitizing old audio recordings last year. The recording was on a well-preserved disc created by a Gray Audograph, a kind of dictation machine used in the 1940s. Jester located the disc.

While the early underwater recording equipment used to capture the sound would be considered crude by today's standards, it was cutting-edge at the time, Jester said. And the fact that the sound is recorded on a plastic disc is significant because most recordings of the time were on tape, which has long since deteriorated, she said.

Whales' sound-making ability is critical to their survival and key to how they socialize and communicate. The sounds come in the form of clicks, whistles and calls, according to NOAA scientists who study them.

The sounds also allow the whales to find food, navigate, locate each other and understand their surroundings in the vast ocean, scientists say. Several species make repetitive sounds that resemble songs. Humpback whales, which can weigh more than 55,000 pounds (24,947 kilograms), are the ocean's most renowned singers, capable of complex vocalizations that can sound ethereal or even mournful.

The discovery of long-lost whale song from a quieter ocean could be a jumping-off point to better understanding the sounds the animals make today, said Hansen Johnson, a research scientist at the Anderson Cabot Center for Ocean Life at the New England Aquarium.

“And, you know, it's just beautiful to listen to and has really inspired a lot of people to be curious about the ocean, and care about ocean life in general,” said Johnson, who was not involved in the research. “It's pretty special.”


Buzz, Unease as UK Crowds Watch US Bombers Head to War

US military personnel loaded missiles onto a bomber at the Fairford base. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
US military personnel loaded missiles onto a bomber at the Fairford base. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
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Buzz, Unease as UK Crowds Watch US Bombers Head to War

US military personnel loaded missiles onto a bomber at the Fairford base. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
US military personnel loaded missiles onto a bomber at the Fairford base. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP

Hidden behind a tall hedgerow in the English countryside, Charlie Cumming stood at the fence of an air force base, camera raised towards a US B-1 Lancer bomber parked nearby.

He was one of hundreds of curious onlookers who flocked to the airfield at RAF Fairford in the southwestern county of Gloucestershire since US aircraft began arriving on March 6, days after the start of the US-Israeli war with Iran.

"I've come just for pictures for my Instagram, really," said the 17-year-old. "It's a bit concerning they're here, but I still think they're really cool to see."

Beside him stood his friend James Martin, 18, from Oxford, who first got him into plane spotting. Seeing bombers loaded for active combat felt "quite surreal", Martin said.

"Seeing these machines going out to cause destruction and actually being used in a war zone is quite a weird experience... we've always seen planes just doing standard training roles."

On Saturday, cars spilled onto verges and down narrow lanes as visitors converged from across the country.

Along a road offering a panoramic view, veteran enthusiasts, excited locals, dog walkers and father-and-son pairs found their spots in the spring sunshine, armed with telephoto lenses, binoculars, stepladders and air-traffic scanners.

Some settled in with fold-out chairs, sandwiches and flasks of tea.

Dave Savage, a truck driver who had driven three hours from mid-Wales with his son, summed up the "excitement" many felt.

"I just like the power and the size of them," he said. "I get a buzz out of seeing something that big and that impressive."

Adrian, a warehouse worker from Doncaster, arrived in time to see a B-1 take off shortly after dawn.

He has spent 22 years spotting warplanes and said the turnout on Saturday dwarfed anything he had seen at a military airfield on a normal weekend.

"Down the lane there's just as many cars as there would have been on air show days," the 58-year-old said, asking not to give his full name.

He came prepared, arriving with a multi-camera setup and heavy-duty ear defenders round his neck.

"The B-1 is pretty much the loudest thing on earth. I've never heard anything as loud as that before."

- Thrill and dread -

Yet the excitement was tempered by an awareness of what these planes were being sent to do -- and Britain's role in their mission.

Fairford, along with Diego Garcia in the Indian Ocean, is one of two bases Britain finally allowed the United States to use for "defensive" operations in Iran.

The US Department of Defense did not immediately respond to a request for comment on its use of the base.

But according to estimates from AFP journalists at the site, around six B-52s and 12 B-1s have been using the base, conducting two to three sets of departures and landings per day.

Starmer's refusal to join the US and Israel in bombing Iran from February 28 triggered a public row with US President Donald Trump.

Polls show most Britons oppose the war, with half against US use of RAF bases even when the missions are restricted to bombing Iranian missile sites.

James Martin, who grew up close to RAF Brize Norton some 12 miles (19 kilometers) away, said even those in his local village accustomed to military aircraft overhead were now listening differently.

"Every time the fighter jet comes over, they're very worried about what that could mean," he said. "It's just scary how quickly it's evolving."

Research analyst Christoph Bergs from the London think tank RUSI said Fairford staff were experienced in dealing with large numbers of plane spotters.

"Given the US administration's public statements on Iran, visible activity at RAF Fairford may have been deemed an acceptable if not a welcomed externality of the current air campaign," he told AFP.

For Adrian, the spectacle was compelling.

"You can't turn your back on it, even though you might not necessarily agree with what they're actually doing," he said.

"We're never going to see this again. It's special in that respect -- but a little bit sad as well."


Chinese Firms Seek to Loosen West's Grip on Lucrative Snow Business

A visitor snowboards on the slopes at Lianhuashan Ski Resort on the outskirts of Beijing. Pedro PARDO / AFP
A visitor snowboards on the slopes at Lianhuashan Ski Resort on the outskirts of Beijing. Pedro PARDO / AFP
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Chinese Firms Seek to Loosen West's Grip on Lucrative Snow Business

A visitor snowboards on the slopes at Lianhuashan Ski Resort on the outskirts of Beijing. Pedro PARDO / AFP
A visitor snowboards on the slopes at Lianhuashan Ski Resort on the outskirts of Beijing. Pedro PARDO / AFP

Lianhuashan's slopes have been kept snow-covered by ageing European snow cannons for more than 20 years, but the Beijing resort added its first Chinese snowmaker this ski season.

The snow gun, made by Beijing-based Carving Ski, costs about a third less than Western brands such as Italian giant TechnoAlpin, Carving resort manager Tang Lingling told AFP on a crisp February morning at the bottom of the slopes.

"By producing and assembling locally, we avoid the high costs of overseas production and shipping," said Tang, whose company sold around 200 snow machines last year.

"But the pressure from competition is very great."

"The truth is, the profit margin for our snow machine business isn't high."

However, Chinese winter sports firms are slowly chipping away at foreign dominance in the 84.6 billion yuan ($12.3 billion) snow equipment market despite such ferocious price competition.

They aim to replace foreign brands at home before conquering overseas markets by investing in research and making use of China's formidable supply chains.

- Targeting the masses -

China's snow-related equipment sales have surged almost fourfold since 2015, but interest has levelled off since the Beijing Winter Olympic Games in 2022 and a post-Covid boom.

Chinese consumers are now tightening their belts.

"Since 2007, the price of raw materials has at least doubled... but we haven't raised our prices," said Jin Huiyuan, founder of snowboard brand Lidakis.

Her company targets beginners and children with social media-friendly, ultralight boards with detachable dolls that she sells for around 2,000 yuan ($290) each.

They sold around 20,000 boards last year out of their frigid warehouse in Zhangjiakou, close to the slopes used for the 2022 Winter Games.

"Big foreign brands are high-end brands, which are bought by the rich; ours is for the masses. So, on this point, I think we are competitive with them, since not every consumer has lots of money," Jin said.

- Olympic void -

The government has heavily supported this "ice and snow economy", with President Xi Jinping's goal of 300 million winter sports participants surpassed by 2022.

Companies such as Carving and Lidakis benefit from research funding and subsidized rents.

Still, foreign brands dominate the high-end market.

Domestic skis and boards "haven't reached the level" of international competitors, according to Li Zhibo, general manager of ski firm Qianmao Xuelong.

"Some are century-old companies; we can't overtake that kind of history and technical accumulation overnight."

Qianmao mostly sells entry-level ski boots and bindings, but has pivoted to high-end equipment and supplied skis to China's Aerials team for the Milan-Cortina Winter Olympics in February.

However, eventual women's Aerials champion Xu Mengtao opted for the Swiss brand Oxess during the competition.

Likewise, superstars Su Yiming and Eileen Gu secured gold using boards from US brand Burton and skis by Switzerland's Faction, highlighting the gap between Chinese brands and foreign competitors.

- Snow blow -

Despite not finding wide global popularity, some Chinese brands are finding a niche for themselves.

Lidakis has sold to Kazakhstan, South Korea and Iran, while Carving has exported to Russia, filling the void left by European firms locked out by EU export restrictions imposed after the invasion of Ukraine.

For now, the focus is on a domestic shift.

Tang Lingling is optimistic about the transition from imports to local manufacturing.

"In many ski resorts, you will see a lot of European snow machines at first. Gradually, (resorts) are beginning to choose to try Chinese snow-making machines," she said.

"Later, they won't even consider imported ones. They will directly choose Chinese brands."