Chanel Resurrects Lagerfeld's Punk Princesses

French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)
French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)
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Chanel Resurrects Lagerfeld's Punk Princesses

French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)
French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)

South Sudanese model Adut Akech was the star of Chanel's teeny-weeny Paris haute couture show Tuesday which featured two "punk princesses".

Designer Virginie Viard said she drew inspiration from her predecessor Karl Lagerfeld for the one-minute 22-second film, no more than a teaser for its autumn-winter collection.

The French designer, who was Lagerfeld's right-hand woman until his death last year, has already signaled that the days of his "pharaonic" extravaganzas are over at the label.

But even for her, this was minimalist.

Paris fashion week has been forced online for the first time in its history by the coronavirus, with labels showing short films of their clothes instead.

While Viard's collections so far for the iconic French house have been marked by soberness and simplicity, this time she channeled the decadence and "shimmering opulence and jewelry" of the Paris nightclub scene over which Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent presided in the late 1970s.

"I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of Le Palace at dawn," she said, referring to a legendary club in the French capital.

"With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers and lots of jewelry. This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to Le Palace, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too," Viard added.

Tears of joy

French designers Alexis Mabille and Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing to real fashion shows so far, both using one model to show all their looks, while fellow Parisian label Aganovich created a stop motion film with its garments with artist Erik Madigan.

Rolland used the Spanish model Nieves Alvarez, one of Saint Laurent's final muses, to show his black and white collection inspired by pop art.

Full of long and languorous looks, he told AFP he wanted to create "cocoon forms that were protective and generous" as well as glamorous.

But perhaps the day's most poetic offering was from the Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato who instead of teasing a collection, asked people from around the world to send him old white shirts they had been attached to which he then recut and transformed.

One Japanese woman gave him her dead mother's shirt, which like a kimono she wanted to hand down to future generations of her family.

Nakazato talked to each of his clients by video link about the history of their shirt before reimagining it, and then sending it off to them in a box.

The designer, who wears his studio white coat throughout the film, said the idea of the charity project, called "Face to Face", was to give people "courage and hope... at a time when our ability to meet people physically is limited".

Having drawn out his clients' stories, some were brought to tears by his creations and others were so awed by the "work of art" that they screamed with joy when they opened their box.



Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
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Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Pieter Mulier has been named the new creative director of the Milan fashion house Versace starting July 1, according to an announcement on Thursday from the Prada Group, which owns Versace.

Mulier is currently creative director of the French fashion house Alaïa, and was previously the right-hand man of fellow Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Dior.

In his new role, Mulier will report to Versace executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the designated successor to manage the family-run Prada Group. Bertelli is the son of Miuccia Prada and Prada Group chairman Patrizio Bertelli.

“We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue,’’ The Associated Press quoted Lorenzo Bertelli as saying of Mulier in a statement.

Mulier takes over from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after previewing just one collection during his short-lived Versace stint.

Mulier was honored last fall by supermodel and longtime Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his work paying tribute to brand founder Azzedine Alaïa. Mulier took the creative helm in 2021, after Alaïa’s death.


Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
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Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo

Ralph Lauren posted third-quarter results above Wall Street estimates on Thursday, but the luxury retailer's warning of margin pressure tied to US tariffs sent its shares down nearly 6.4% in premarket trading.

The company expects fourth-quarter margins, its smallest revenue period, to shrink about 80 to 120 basis points due to higher tariff pressure and marketing spend.

Ralph Lauren, which sources its products from regions such as China, India and Vietnam, has relied on raising prices and reallocating production to regions with lower duty exposure to offset US tariff pressures, Reuters reported.

"Ralph Lauren has been able to raise prices for some time now. There is some limit on how long it can continue to do this. I think (the company's) gross margins are near peak levels," Morningstar analyst David Swartz said.

The company, which sells $148 striped linen shirts and $498 leather handbags, has tightened inventory, lifted full-price sales and refreshed core styles, boosting its appeal among wealthier and younger customers, including Gen Z.

Higher-income households are still splurging on luxury items, travel and restaurant meals, while lower- and middle-income consumers are strained by higher costs for rents and food as well as a softer job market.

The New York City-based company saw quarterly operating costs jump 12% year-on-year as it ramped up brand building efforts through sports-focused brand campaigns such as Wimbledon and the US Open tennis championship.

The luxury retailer said revenue in the quarter ended December 27 rose 12% to $2.41 billion, above analysts' estimates of a 7.9% rise to $2.31 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG.

It earned $6.22 per share, excluding items, compared to expectations of $5.81, aided by a 220 basis points increase in margins and an 18% rise in average unit retail across its direct-to-consumer channel.

Ralph Lauren now expects fiscal 2026 revenue to rise in the high single to low double digits on a constant currency basis, up from its prior forecast of a 5% to 7% growth.


Saudi Fashion Commission, Kering Launch 'Kering Generation Award X MENA'

This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA
This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA
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Saudi Fashion Commission, Kering Launch 'Kering Generation Award X MENA'

This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA
This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA

Saudi Arabia’s Fashion Commission and global luxury group Kering have launched the "Kering Generation Award X MENA" across the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) for 2026.

The announcement was made on Tuesday during the opening of the RLC Global Forum, hosted at the French Embassy in Riyadh.

This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners.

Participants benefited from mentorship programs, workshops, and opportunities to strengthen their global presence. Building on this momentum, the 2026 program seeks to expand its impact across the MENA region.

The 2026 award focuses on four key areas of sustainable fashion: innovation in regenerative materials and clean production, circular design and sustainable business models, nature conservation and animal welfare, and consumer awareness and cultural engagement.

The program targets startups across the MENA region that operate in, or positively influence, the sustainable fashion sector, provided they demonstrate innovation capabilities and the ability to deliver measurable sustainability outcomes.