Unique Expo Places Saint Laurent among Paris Treasures

A portrait of the late designer with Madison Cox, president of the Yves Saint Laurent-Pierre Berger Foundation. STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN AFP
A portrait of the late designer with Madison Cox, president of the Yves Saint Laurent-Pierre Berger Foundation. STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN AFP
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Unique Expo Places Saint Laurent among Paris Treasures

A portrait of the late designer with Madison Cox, president of the Yves Saint Laurent-Pierre Berger Foundation. STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN AFP
A portrait of the late designer with Madison Cox, president of the Yves Saint Laurent-Pierre Berger Foundation. STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN AFP

Tucked away like Easter eggs in the most prestigious Paris museums, a unique commemoration of designer Yves Saint Laurent cements his status among the greats of French cultural history.

"I am utterly eclectic," the designer once said, and the point is proven by how easily his clothes fit into museums covering very different eras and artistic styles.

In the Apollo Gallery of the Louvre, alongside the crowns and jewels of French kings and queens, the almost absurdly ornate "Versailles jacket" covered in gold leaves and rock crystals, looks perfectly at home, AFP reportedly.

The Louvre is one of six museums taking part in the unique collaboration to mark 60 years since the designer's first catwalk show, when he was 26.

Head across town to the Centre Pompidou, France's mecca for modern art, and you find a very different Saint Laurent on display.

Dresses in the abstract styles of Piet Mondrian, Sonia Delaunay and US pop artists hang alongside the portraits that inspired them.

Saint Laurent was often ahead of the game: his Mondrian collection came out to rave reviews in 1965, four years before the Dutch artist, who died in 1944, had his first career retrospective at the Orangerie Museum.

"It was precisely that moment when fashion changed and started to become an art in its own right," said Aurelie Samuel, of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, which is displaying some of his drawings as part of the city-wide exhibition, which runs until May.

His creations have also been snuck into the Orsay, Picasso and Contemporary Art museums.

- 'Something different' -
It is not the first time that Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, has been granted the imprimatur of the art establishment.

As early as 1983, barely two decades after his first show, he became the first living designer to have his work presented in a major art institution -- at the Metropolitan Museum in New York.

The Petit Palais in Paris put on a career retrospective in 2010.

"The house has already done so many anniversaries. I wanted to do something different," said Madison Cox, president of the Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation.

Many of the influences were made explicit by Saint Laurent at the time -- others have been chosen for how well they play off each other.

They include the dresses he made for the "Proust Ball", one of the most decadent social events of France in the last century, organised by the Rothschild family to mark the author's 100th birthday.

Those dresses are now on display alongside Belle Epoque masterpieces by Monet, Degas and Renoir on the top floor of the Orsay Museum.

"It would have been boring to just find an empty space, throw up some scenery and fill it with his clothes," said Cox. "It was important to integrate them into permanent collections."



Nike’s Turnaround Put to Test as Middle East Conflict Poses New Risks

A man walks past Nike booth with installation of shoes at the 8th China International Import Expo (CIIE) venue in Shanghai, China, November 5, 2025. (Reuters)
A man walks past Nike booth with installation of shoes at the 8th China International Import Expo (CIIE) venue in Shanghai, China, November 5, 2025. (Reuters)
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Nike’s Turnaround Put to Test as Middle East Conflict Poses New Risks

A man walks past Nike booth with installation of shoes at the 8th China International Import Expo (CIIE) venue in Shanghai, China, November 5, 2025. (Reuters)
A man walks past Nike booth with installation of shoes at the 8th China International Import Expo (CIIE) venue in Shanghai, China, November 5, 2025. (Reuters)

Nike's efforts to steady its business ‌face a fresh setback, with executives cautioning that unrest in the Middle East could further complicate the turnaround, while the sportswear giant still struggles to regain traction in China.

The company on Tuesday warned of a sharp drop in current-quarter sales and slower-than-expected progress on its turnaround, as higher trade-related costs squeeze its margins and cautious consumers rein in spending.

Shares of the company slumped 10% to $47.35 in premarket trading on Wednesday and were on track to open at their lowest in over a ‌decade.

On an earnings ‌call, Chief Financial Officer Matthew Friend said ‌the ⁠conflict in the ⁠Middle East had already disrupted shopping behavior in parts of Europe, the Middle East and Africa, contributing to softer store traffic and weaker sportswear sales.

"The Middle East conflict is compounding the pressure, with Nike flagging traffic disruption and elevated inventory across EMEA," said Josh Gilbert, market analyst at eToro.

Nike CEO Elliott Hill, ⁠who took the helm in 2024, has ‌been looking to steady the company ‌as it grapples with several challenges, including a sluggish digital business, ‌stubborn excess inventory and intensifying competition from Chinese sportswear brands.

To boost ‌margins and bolster investor confidence, Hill has moved to rein in promotions, sharpen product innovation and refocus the business on core franchises such as running.

The efforts showed some signs of improvement in the ‌reported quarter, with the running category growing over 20%, but analysts still see a long road ⁠ahead for ⁠Nike.

At least eight brokerages cut their price target on the stock.

"We are turning at least somewhat frustrated, with seemingly slower than planned pace of recovery," Oppenheimer analyst Brian Nagel said.

The company's forward price-to-earnings multiple, a common benchmark for valuing stocks, is 25.47, compared with 13.54 for Adidas and Under Armour's ratio of 25.72, according to LSEG data.

"These earnings show Nike is keeping pace at a steady jog, but it keeps tripping over hurdles along the way," eToro's Gilbert added.

"Patience is clearly the price of admission."


From Plastic Jars to Transport, Iran War Drives up Beauty Industry Costs

Visitors browse stalls at the beauty industry Cosmoprof trade show, in Bologna, Italy, March 26, 2026. Picture taken with a mobile phone. (Reuters)
Visitors browse stalls at the beauty industry Cosmoprof trade show, in Bologna, Italy, March 26, 2026. Picture taken with a mobile phone. (Reuters)
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From Plastic Jars to Transport, Iran War Drives up Beauty Industry Costs

Visitors browse stalls at the beauty industry Cosmoprof trade show, in Bologna, Italy, March 26, 2026. Picture taken with a mobile phone. (Reuters)
Visitors browse stalls at the beauty industry Cosmoprof trade show, in Bologna, Italy, March 26, 2026. Picture taken with a mobile phone. (Reuters)

The Iran war is seeping into the cosmetics supply chain, pushing up the cost of everything from plastic jars and lipstick tubes to transport, and reminding the beauty industry that even a tub of face cream depends on fragile global trade routes.

Cost pressures were a recurring theme last week at one of the sector's largest trade fairs in the northern Italian city of Bologna, as executives watched Iran's blockade of the vital Strait of Hormuz shipping route approach a fifth week.

The Cosmoprof fair drew 3,100 exhibitors from 68 countries and 255,000 visitors from 150 nations, ranging from companies seeking packaging solutions to retailers scouting new products.

Cosmetics companies are primarily worried about higher raw material and transport costs due to rising oil prices ‌and disrupted shipping, five ‌industry executives told Reuters.

"We are beginning to see cost increases driven ‌by ⁠energy price inflation, compounded ⁠by delivery delays," said Simone Dominici, CEO of Italian cosmetics group Kiko, who estimates additional logistics-related costs of about 1.5 million euros ($1.7 million) for the group over the year.

Kiko, which sells lipsticks starting at 5 euros and mascaras from 7.5 euros, operates more than 1,000 stores worldwide.

"With so many containers stuck in the Middle East, there is a tighter container availability ... and goods are not being moved efficiently," Dominici said, adding that higher prices for some chemical components and packaging - much of it sourced from the ⁠Far East - would add further pressure.

As the Iran crisis upends supply ‌chains, Yonwoo, a container maker for L'Oreal and K-beauty firms, ‌said it was scrambling to secure stocks of plastic resin to manufacture the pots used for skincare and cosmetics.

ALTERNATIVE ‌ROUTES

Beyond higher costs, the industry could also face softer demand from consumers whose purchasing power ‌is being eroded by inflation, Dominici said.

"It's the perfect storm," he warned.

Milan-listed Intercos and privately owned Ancorotti Group, among Italy's largest contract manufacturers in the sector, said they had not yet faced major supply shortages but cited higher logistics costs, longer delivery times and rising raw material prices as challenges.

"Lead times have lengthened as routes have ‌become longer and ports more congested. What once took eight weeks now can take 12 to 14 weeks," said Ancorotti Chief Executive Roberto ⁠Bottino.

Some clients have turned ⁠to rail transport to reach Asia, Bottino added.

Ancorotti Group makes around 220 million euros in revenues per year from selling products to beauty brands worldwide.

Bottino said it was difficult to imagine supply-chain cost increases not ultimately being passed downstream.

"Middle East customers value quality and are willing to pay a premium for added value, so being unable to access these markets can have a negative impact," said Fabio Franchina, chairman of haircare products maker Framesi.

Franchina said the company's distributor in the region was exploring alternative delivery routes.

"They are looking at ... (options such as) shipping to Jeddah and then moving goods by road instead of routing them through Gulf ports," he said.

Some goods are currently being shipped by air rather than by sea, he added, further lifting costs.

Italy produced 18 billion euros of cosmetics in 2025, including 8.4 billion euros in exports, according to industry body Cosmetica Italia, making the country the world's fifth-largest exporter of beauty products and one of the leading producers of hair dyes, eye make-up and fragrances.


Judge Lifts Judicial Control on 2 Italian Fashion Firms in Worker Exploitation Case

A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)
A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)
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Judge Lifts Judicial Control on 2 Italian Fashion Firms in Worker Exploitation Case

A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)
A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)

An Italian judge has lifted the judicial control imposed by Milan prosecutors on two Italian fashion firms over alleged worker exploitation, court documents seen by Reuters showed, meaning a court-appointed administrator need no longer monitor the two firms' operations.

It is the first time a judge has not upheld such a measure in a series of similar cases involving the high-end fashion sector.

Milan prosecutors had placed the two firms under investigation on March 17, along with their two directors and three Chinese nationals ⁠who owned two ⁠workshops to which the brands had subcontracted production.

In a 25-page ruling seen on Monday, Judge Roberto Crepaldi said "the conditions do not exist" for placing Alberto Aspesi and Dama Spa, owner of the Paul & Shark brand, under judicial oversight.

He added it had not been proven that ⁠the two companies' directors were complicit in the crime of labor exploitation.

The judge said the exploitation and underpayment of migrant workers had been established, but he attributed responsibility to the two subcontracting workshops rather than to the two client companies. Milan prosecutors said they would file an appeal on Tuesday over the judge's decision, asking a court to confirm the judicial oversight measure.

A three-judge panel will then decide whether to uphold the lower court ⁠judge's ruling ⁠or reimpose judicial control.

Being placed under investigation does not imply guilt or mean the case will go to trial.

Aspesi and Dama have not commented on the case, while the lawyer for Dama's director said he ruled out any criminal liability for his client, Andrea Dini.

The March 17 move had brought to seven the number of high-end brands put under various forms of judicial administration because of suspected labor violations, while another 13 have been subject to inspections - cases that have tainted the sector's image.