Hermes Expands in Nanjing as Luxury Industry Bets on Chinese Return 

A Hermes store sign is seen at a shopping mall in San Diego, California, US, November 23, 2022. (Reuters)
A Hermes store sign is seen at a shopping mall in San Diego, California, US, November 23, 2022. (Reuters)
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Hermes Expands in Nanjing as Luxury Industry Bets on Chinese Return 

A Hermes store sign is seen at a shopping mall in San Diego, California, US, November 23, 2022. (Reuters)
A Hermes store sign is seen at a shopping mall in San Diego, California, US, November 23, 2022. (Reuters)

Birkin bag maker Hermes is opening a new, enlarged store in China's Nanjing city, signaling the luxury industry's confidence in a strong return of Chinese shoppers after three years of tough COVID-19 restrictions. 

Hermes, which first opened a store in the city in 2010, has now relocated to the upscale mall Deji Plaza, with a wider product selection spread across two floors, from silk scarves to leather goods, as well as home decor, jewellery and clothing.  

European luxury houses have continued to invest in China, expected to become the sector's largest market by 2025, despite a turbulent year marked by disruptions as the country imposed strict curbs to contain the spread of the coronavirus. 

News in late December that the country was relaxing travel rules pushed up the share prices of global luxury companies including the world's largest, LVMH. 

Hermes and LVMH both generated around 30% of annual sales in China in 2020, according to UBS. Mainland China, where Hermes counts 27 stores, has been a strong focus for the leather goods specialist. Last year, Hermes opened a larger store in Wuhan, and set up its first shop in Zhengzhou, in Henan province. 

China is expected to serve as an important source of growth in the coming months as Europe faces an energy crisis and the U.S. economy cools. Bernstein analyst Luca Solca forecasts luxury sales could grow between 25% and 35% in the country this year while in the West they are expected around 5% to 10%. 



Etro Founding Family Exits Group as New Investors Including Türkiye's RAMS Global Join

L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters
L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters
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Etro Founding Family Exits Group as New Investors Including Türkiye's RAMS Global Join

L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters
L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters

The founding family of Italian fashion house Etro has sold the minority stake it still owned in the brand to a group of investors including Turkish group RAMS Global, the company said on Friday.

L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner and "will continue to actively support the brand's long-term growth strategy," Etro added, according to Reuters.

The new investors comprise also Italian fashion group Swinger International and small private equity firm ⁠RSI.

In addition to buying the stake, they all subscribed to a capital increase that will lower L Catterton's holding in Etro to between 51% and 55% from around 65%.

When including both the acquisition and the capital increase, the deal is worth around 70 ⁠million euros ($82 million), two sources close to the matter said. Etro did not disclose financial details.

Chief Executive Fabrizio Cardinali will remain at the helm, while Faruk Bülbül, representing RAMS Global, will become chairman of the board.

L Catterton bought a 60% stake in the brand known for its paisley motif four years ago, and it slightly increased the holding over the years.

The company, founded by Gimmo Etro in 1968, has ⁠been struggling with its turnaround. Last year it posted a net loss of 23 million euros with net revenues declining to 245 million euros from 261 million euros, according to filings with the local chambers of commerce reviewed by Reuters.

Rothschild advised L Catterton and the Etro family on the deal.

Rothschild had been hired in 2024 to look for a new investor who could buy all or part of the Etro fashion group, sources had previously told Reuters.


Paris Court Rejects Bid to Suspend Shein Platform in France

A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
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Paris Court Rejects Bid to Suspend Shein Platform in France

A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo

A Paris court on Friday rejected a government request to suspend Chinese fast-fashion platform Shein in France after authorities found illegal weapons and child-like sex dolls for sale on the fast-fashion giant’s website.

Shein welcomed the decision, saying it remains committed to strengthening its control processes in cooperation with French authorities.

“Our priority remains protecting French consumers and ensuring compliance with local laws and regulations," the company said in an emailed statement to The Associated Press.

The controversy dates to early November, when France’s consumer watchdog and Finance Ministry moved toward suspending Shein’s online marketplace after authorities said they had found childlike sex dolls and prohibited “Class A” weapons listed for sale, even as the company opened its first permanent store in Paris.

French authorities gave Shein hours to remove the items. The company responded by banning the products and largely shutting down third-party marketplace listings in France.

French officials have also asked the European Commission to examine how illegal products were able to appear on the platform under EU rules governing large online intermediaries.


Lululemon Jumps on Elliott's $1 Billion Bet Ahead of Leadership Change

FILE PHOTO: A logo is displayed inside a Lululemon outlet retail store at Bicester Village in Oxfordshire, Britain, August 21, 2024. REUTERS/Hollie Adams/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A logo is displayed inside a Lululemon outlet retail store at Bicester Village in Oxfordshire, Britain, August 21, 2024. REUTERS/Hollie Adams/File Photo
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Lululemon Jumps on Elliott's $1 Billion Bet Ahead of Leadership Change

FILE PHOTO: A logo is displayed inside a Lululemon outlet retail store at Bicester Village in Oxfordshire, Britain, August 21, 2024. REUTERS/Hollie Adams/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A logo is displayed inside a Lululemon outlet retail store at Bicester Village in Oxfordshire, Britain, August 21, 2024. REUTERS/Hollie Adams/File Photo

Lululemon Athletica shares rose nearly 8% in early trading on Thursday after reports Elliott Management has built a $1 billion stake in the athleisure wear maker and is working with former Ralph Lauren executive Jane Nielsen for a potential CEO role.

The Canada-based retailer said last week that Calvin McDonald will step down after nearly seven years as its top boss, sparking hopes for a leader who can reverse slowing growth and win back younger shoppers amid fierce competition from trendier players like Alo and Vuori. The stock has lost nearly half of its value this year, underscoring investor concerns over Lululemon's struggles. The company's shares were trading at $224 on Thursday.

"Elliott is famous for agitating for change. These positions aren't built overnight, so Lululemon's board probably saw this coming," said Brian Jacobsen, chief economic strategist, Annex Wealth Management.

The activist investor has been working closely for months with Nielsen, a retail veteran, a source told Reuters on Wednesday. Nielsen, who sits on the board of Cadbury parent Mondelez, has also served as finance chief at Tapestry-owned Coach.

"Lululemon is one of the most powerful brands in retail, defined by exceptional products, deeply engaged communities and significant global potential," Nielsen said in a statement to the Wall Street Journal. "I would welcome the chance to discuss this opportunity with the Lululemon board."

Elliott, Lululemon and Nielsen did not respond to Reuters requests for comment.

Analysts have said the company will need to upgrade its fabrics, use fresher designs and accelerate product launches that click with Gen Z to reclaim its "cool factor" and lure shoppers back.

With much of its sourcing tied to Asian factories facing higher import duties, Lululemon will also need to streamline its supply chain to blunt US tariff pressures and protect margins next year, analysts have said.

"Lululemon should implement fast fashions and introduce an assortment that will pull customers from Alo and Vuori - especially Gen Z customers.

Fast fashion requires a much better supply chain than is currently in use at Lululemon," said Brittain Ladd, a strategy and supply chain consultant at Florida-based Chang Robotics.

The brand's struggles have drawn sharp criticism from founder and largest individual shareholder Chip Wilson. He has also called for an urgent CEO search, led by new, independent directors with deep company knowledge to restore a product-first focus.

Wilson did not respond to a Reuters request for comment.

With a 4.3% ownership, Wilson's stake is valued at about $988 million, according to LSEG data, making Elliott one of the top shareholders in Lululemon, which is valued at nearly $25 billion.

Lululemon trades at a forward price-to-earnings ratio of 16.37, while Gap trades at 11.88 and American Eagle at 16.81, according to LSEG data.