Pharrell Pursues Paris Landmark Takeovers with Louvre Show

Pharrell has been creative director at Louis Vuitton since 2023. Mark Sagliocco / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA/AFP
Pharrell has been creative director at Louis Vuitton since 2023. Mark Sagliocco / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA/AFP
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Pharrell Pursues Paris Landmark Takeovers with Louvre Show

Pharrell has been creative director at Louis Vuitton since 2023. Mark Sagliocco / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA/AFP
Pharrell has been creative director at Louis Vuitton since 2023. Mark Sagliocco / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA/AFP

Paris Men's Fashion Week kicks off Tuesday, headlined by Pharrell Williams' highly anticipated new show for Louis Vuitton which is set to take over the Louvre in the evening.
Transforming the French capital's most famous museum continues his tradition of using major landmarks as backdrops for his clothes since he began as creative director in 2023, AFP said.
For his debut show, the LVMH-owned brand used the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in the capital, as a giant runway, even painting its paving stones gold.
A historic theme park, the Jardin d'Acclimatation, hosted Pharrell's show last January while in June he sent models down a lawn catwalk built on the rooftop of the modernist headquarters of UN agency UNESCO.
The Louvre's iconic architecture has been used several times in the past by Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquiere, artistic director of women's collections, most recently in October.
Pharrell's fifth collection for the Autumn-Winter 2025-2026 season is expected to once again draw a star-studded crowd from the worlds of rap, cinema, and sports.
Brand ambassadors include American basketball player LeBron James, French basketball sensation Victor Wembanyama, and Olympic swimming star Leon Marchand.
South Korean star J-Hope of K-pop group BTS, currently in Paris, shared his invitation on social media: a metallic card bearing his name in a leather pouch.
After delivering an ode to multiculturalism during his last show in June, Pharrell Williams might be tempted to send a political message a day after the inauguration of Donald Trump as US president, some observers believe.
'Workwear'
The opening day of Men's Fashion Week, which runs until Sunday, will also feature an afternoon show by Japanese brand Auralee, making its third Paris appearance.
Founded in 2015 by Ryota Iwai, the label stands out for its simple, functional design.
In terms of looks, experts say the aesthetic dominance of streetwear is fading, with designers increasingly focused on "casual tailoring", emphasizing suits and structured pieces with a relaxed twist.
A major trend from the spring-summer 2025 collections was dubbed "workwear", featuring trench coats, Barbour-style jackets, duffle coats and loafers.
"There’s a classic, slightly dandy but chic, elegant, and casual silhouette emerging," Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at luxury Paris emporium Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.
Brown colors have dominated for two seasons, and insiders expect them to remain a key shade at the end of the year.
A number of top labels are luring new designers or looking for fresh inspiration in the increasingly tough luxury market.
Lanvin is set to return after a two-year hiatus, presenting Peter Copping’s debut collection as the artistic director of France’s oldest couture house.
After completing his first show in September, Valentino’s new artistic director, Alessandro Michele, will return for haute couture week, which follows immediately after the menswear week.
One of the most anticipated shows will be on Sunday by in-vogue French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose Jacquemus brand is making its return to the official calendar after a five-year absence.
Notably absences include Givenchy, whose new chief designer Sarah Burton has reserved her first collection for the women’s Fashion Week in March, as well as Loewe, whose artistic director Jonathan Anderson is rumored to be on the way out.
Hedi Slimane left his role as artistic director at Celine in October, John Galliano quit Maison Margiela in December, and Chanel unveiled their new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, only a month ago.



Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
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Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)

Kering reported on Tuesday a slightly smaller-than-expected drop in fourth-quarter sales, as investors await details of CEO Luca de Meo's plans ​to revive the Gucci owner's flagging fortunes.

Sales reached 3.9 billion euros ($4.64 billion), down 3% from the previous year when adjusted for currency swings. That beat analysts' consensus forecast for a 5% drop, according to Visible Alpha.

The revenue drop was 10% at Italian flagship label Gucci, which accounts for most of Kering's profits, versus analyst expectations of a 12% decline.

It ‌was the brand's ‌10th straight quarter of revenue ‌decline.

Finance ⁠Chief ​Armelle ‌Poulou told journalists Gucci saw some improvement at the end of last year in "almost all regions", helped by newly introduced products and handbag sales.

Grappling with weak sales since the maximalist styles of Gucci's former star designer Alessandro Michele fell out of fashion in 2022, Kering has faced heightened investor scrutiny over its high ⁠debt and declining profitability.

Free cash from operations fell by 35% last year ‌when excluding one-off payments from real estate ‍sales, reaching 2.3 billion euros, Kering ‍said.

"For Kering, it's really about (restoring) the broad desirability globally," said ‍JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini.

Facing an uncertain business outlook, the group, which also owns Gucci Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, further reduced its store network by 75 boutiques with further closures planned, Poulou said.

The ​earnings underscored the steep challenges Kering faces to catch up with peers even though its shares have ⁠risen around 50% since de Meo's appointment was announced last June.

"2025 did not reflect Kering's true potential or the strength of our brands, but it enabled us to lay the foundations for our future recovery," said Poulou.

Kering's annual operating income reached 1.63 billion euros, less than a third of its 2022 level. Kering's operating profit margin fell to 11% group-wide and 16% at Gucci, down from 28% and 36% three years earlier.

By contrast, LVMH delivered a 22% margin last year amid ‌a broader luxury slowdown, with its leather and fashion division - home to Louis Vuitton and Dior - hitting 35%.


Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
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Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Pieter Mulier has been named the new creative director of the Milan fashion house Versace starting July 1, according to an announcement on Thursday from the Prada Group, which owns Versace.

Mulier is currently creative director of the French fashion house Alaïa, and was previously the right-hand man of fellow Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Dior.

In his new role, Mulier will report to Versace executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the designated successor to manage the family-run Prada Group. Bertelli is the son of Miuccia Prada and Prada Group chairman Patrizio Bertelli.

“We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue,’’ The Associated Press quoted Lorenzo Bertelli as saying of Mulier in a statement.

Mulier takes over from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after previewing just one collection during his short-lived Versace stint.

Mulier was honored last fall by supermodel and longtime Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his work paying tribute to brand founder Azzedine Alaïa. Mulier took the creative helm in 2021, after Alaïa’s death.


Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
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Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo

Ralph Lauren posted third-quarter results above Wall Street estimates on Thursday, but the luxury retailer's warning of margin pressure tied to US tariffs sent its shares down nearly 6.4% in premarket trading.

The company expects fourth-quarter margins, its smallest revenue period, to shrink about 80 to 120 basis points due to higher tariff pressure and marketing spend.

Ralph Lauren, which sources its products from regions such as China, India and Vietnam, has relied on raising prices and reallocating production to regions with lower duty exposure to offset US tariff pressures, Reuters reported.

"Ralph Lauren has been able to raise prices for some time now. There is some limit on how long it can continue to do this. I think (the company's) gross margins are near peak levels," Morningstar analyst David Swartz said.

The company, which sells $148 striped linen shirts and $498 leather handbags, has tightened inventory, lifted full-price sales and refreshed core styles, boosting its appeal among wealthier and younger customers, including Gen Z.

Higher-income households are still splurging on luxury items, travel and restaurant meals, while lower- and middle-income consumers are strained by higher costs for rents and food as well as a softer job market.

The New York City-based company saw quarterly operating costs jump 12% year-on-year as it ramped up brand building efforts through sports-focused brand campaigns such as Wimbledon and the US Open tennis championship.

The luxury retailer said revenue in the quarter ended December 27 rose 12% to $2.41 billion, above analysts' estimates of a 7.9% rise to $2.31 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG.

It earned $6.22 per share, excluding items, compared to expectations of $5.81, aided by a 220 basis points increase in margins and an 18% rise in average unit retail across its direct-to-consumer channel.

Ralph Lauren now expects fiscal 2026 revenue to rise in the high single to low double digits on a constant currency basis, up from its prior forecast of a 5% to 7% growth.