'The Marshes are Dead': Iraqi Buffalo Herders Wander in Search of Water

Years of drought have reduced southern Iraq's mythical marshes to a barren land. Asaad NIAZI / AFP
Years of drought have reduced southern Iraq's mythical marshes to a barren land. Asaad NIAZI / AFP
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'The Marshes are Dead': Iraqi Buffalo Herders Wander in Search of Water

Years of drought have reduced southern Iraq's mythical marshes to a barren land. Asaad NIAZI / AFP
Years of drought have reduced southern Iraq's mythical marshes to a barren land. Asaad NIAZI / AFP

Like his father, Iraqi buffalo herder Watheq Abbas grazes his animals in Iraq's southern wetlands, but with persistent drought shrinking marshland where they feed and decimating the herd, his millennia-old way of life is threatened.

"There's no more water, the marshes are dead," said 27-year-old Abbas, who has led his buffaloes to pasture in the marshland for the past 15 years.

"In the past, the drought would last one or two years, the water would return and the marshes would come back to life. Now we've gone without water for five years," the buffalo herder told AFP.

This year has been one of the driest since 1933, authorities have said, with summer temperatures topping 50C across Iraq, which is particularly vulnerable to the effects of climate change.

The UNESCO-listed swamplands in the country's south -- where tradition has it that the biblical Garden of Eden was located -- have sustained civilizations dating back to ancient Mesopotamia.

But the unrelenting dry spell has reduced the mythical waterways to a barren land of cracked earth, stripped of the slender reeds that once dominated the landscape.

Abbas and tens of thousands of Iraqis like him who rely on the marshes -- livestock herders, hunters and fishermen -- have watched helplessly as their source of livelihood evaporated.

At the Chibayish marshes, scarce water still fills some channels, which authorities have deepened so that animals like Abbas's 25 buffaloes could cool off.

For years, he and his herd have been on the move, heading wherever there was still water, in Chibayish or in the neighboring province of Missan.

'Battle for water'

But it has become an increasingly challenging feat. Last year, seven of his animals died.

Just recently Abbas lost another of his buffaloes which drank stagnant, brackish water that he said had "poisoned it".

The drought has been brought about by declining rainfall and soaring temperatures that increase evaporation.

But upstream dams built in Türkiye and in Iran have dramatically reduced the flow of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in Iraq and exacerbated the effects of climate change.

With the Iraqi government forced to ration water supply to ensure the country's 46 million people have enough to drink and to meet agricultural needs, the marshes appear to be at the bottom of their priorities.

"There's a battle for water" in Iraq, said environmental activist Jassim al-Assadi, from the Nature Iraq NGO.

He was among a group of activists and engineers who two decades ago sought to re-flood 5,600 square kilometers (about 2,160 square miles) of marshland.

Today, only 800 square kilometers of the marshes are submerged, Assadi said, with many residents leaving the dried-up region.

The ecosystem of the marshes is also suffering irreversible damage, with turtles, otters and migratory birds among the victims.

"We used to have 48 species of fish but now only four remain, and from 140 species of wild birds we are now down to 22," said veterinarian Wissam al-Assadi.

'We have nothing else'

In collaboration with a French agriculture and veterinarian NGO, he helps treat the buffaloes, which in summer typically need be in the water for 14 hours a day and drink dozens of liters to avoid heat exhaustion.

But the reduced water flow means "the water does not renew, and salinity and pollution levels increase," the veterinarian explained.

"Animals that used to weigh 600 kilos (1,300 pounds) are now 400 or 300 kilos, their immune systems weaken and diseases multiply," he added.

The Mesopotamian water buffaloes now produce one-third of their usual output of milk, which is used to make cheese and geymar, a thick clotted cream that is a popular breakfast food in Iraq.

A UN report issued in July warned that "without urgent conservation measures", the buffalo population was "at risk of extinction".

Citing water scarcity as the cause, it said their numbers in the marshes have gone from 309,000 in 1974 to just 40,000 in 2000.

Towayeh Faraj, 50, who has lived in the hamlet of Hassja in Chibayish for the past two years, said he has been wandering the marshes for three decades to find water for his buffaloes.

"If the livestock is alive, so are we," he said.

"We have nothing else: no salary, no jobs, no state support."

He has 30 animals -- down from the 120 he began his career with, selling many off one-by-one to buy fodder for the remaining herd.

Faraj inherited the profession from his father, but the family tradition might end with him. His eldest of 16 children works for a Chinese oil company, and another is a minibus driver.



Olympic Tourists in Cortina Can Explore the Dolomites with the New ‘Uber Snowmobile’ Service

 The peaks of the Dolomites are seen from the Cortina Sliding Centre during the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games in Cortina d'Ampezzo on February 5, 2026. (AFP)
The peaks of the Dolomites are seen from the Cortina Sliding Centre during the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games in Cortina d'Ampezzo on February 5, 2026. (AFP)
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Olympic Tourists in Cortina Can Explore the Dolomites with the New ‘Uber Snowmobile’ Service

 The peaks of the Dolomites are seen from the Cortina Sliding Centre during the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games in Cortina d'Ampezzo on February 5, 2026. (AFP)
The peaks of the Dolomites are seen from the Cortina Sliding Centre during the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games in Cortina d'Ampezzo on February 5, 2026. (AFP)

The peaks of the Dolomites are seen from the Cortina Sliding Centre during the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games in Cortina d'Ampezzo on February 5, 2026. (AFP)

For one month starting on Saturday, Olympic spectators keen for a side trip to a UNESCO World Heritage Site can use Uber to reserve a ride on a snowmobile along the snow-covered road to the base of the Three Peaks of Lavaredo.

The dramatic, jagged limestone pinnacles stand just 23 kilometers (14.3 miles) from the Cortina venues where athletes are competing in the 2026 Winter Olympics and Paralympics.

One of the Olympic torchbearers, Giulia Baffetti, runs snowmobiling tours through Cortina-based winter activities outfit Snowdreamers. The company partnered with Uber, the official ride-hailing sponsor for the Games, to offer free tours on the weekends in February to people in town.

"Uber Snowmobile" tours, which can only be booked through Uber, include a ride in an Uber transfer bus for up to eight people from Cortina to the spot where riders mount their snowmobiles for departure. Tourgoers then follow the instructor, who leads the line of snowmobiles.

The first slots offered went fast, but Uber spokesperson Caspar Nixon said Friday that it planned to add more.

The three peaks are a magical place, Baffetti said, and this is a way for more people to experience it. Hikers and climbers flock there in the warmer months. In the winter, it’s a prime spot for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and sledding. Snowmobiling is allowed in a limited area in order to protect the environment.

"We want to give an experience to the tourists, so they can feel the mountains in a different way," she said.

The Associated Press took the one-hour tour on Thursday, ahead of the Saturday launch, along with one other person. Helmets are essential, while heated handgrips are a most welcome feature. And that red button? Passengers can push it to stop the snowmobile if it veers off course or they feel unsafe.

The adrenaline-filled ride reaches speeds up to 40 kph (25 mph) when zooming past snow-covered trees, and drivers are instructed to slow when coming upon cross-country skiers and sledders. Deer and wolves are sometimes seen along the 7-kilometer (4.3-mile) route up to the base of the peaks.

Also visible on Thursday was the southernmost of the three Lavaredo peaks, rising sharply out of the fog. While the Dolomites are breathtaking from Cortina — and on Friday, the sun shone and the view was clear from town — they are even more impressive up close.

The route back includes a short loop around Lake Antorno. Before traversing all the ups and downs, the snowmobile instructor leading the tour offers a reminder about that red button.

Saher Deeb, an Israeli tourist, was along for the ride Thursday, one day after his 29th birthday. It was his first time on a snowmobile, and he was all smiles as he climbed off at the end.

"It was perfect," he said.


French Duo Finish Walking from France to Shanghai After 1.5 Years

 Performers throw molten iron to create sparks during a performance on the Bund promenade along the Huangpu river, ahead of the upcoming Lunar New Year of the Horse in Shanghai on February 2, 2026. (AFP)
Performers throw molten iron to create sparks during a performance on the Bund promenade along the Huangpu river, ahead of the upcoming Lunar New Year of the Horse in Shanghai on February 2, 2026. (AFP)
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French Duo Finish Walking from France to Shanghai After 1.5 Years

 Performers throw molten iron to create sparks during a performance on the Bund promenade along the Huangpu river, ahead of the upcoming Lunar New Year of the Horse in Shanghai on February 2, 2026. (AFP)
Performers throw molten iron to create sparks during a performance on the Bund promenade along the Huangpu river, ahead of the upcoming Lunar New Year of the Horse in Shanghai on February 2, 2026. (AFP)

Two French adventurers reached the end of an epic walk from France to Shanghai on Saturday, after nearly a year and a half crossing 16 countries almost entirely on foot.

Loic Voisot and Benjamin Humblot embraced as they stood by the river on the Bund promenade, the financial hub's distinctive skyline glittering in the background.

Voisot and Humblot set off from Annecy in September 2024.

"We were thinking about this moment almost every day for more than a year now, so it's a really strong feeling," Humblot said of reaching their destination.

Hanging out after work one day, the two friends realized they both yearned for a "great adventure".

They wanted to visit China -- but without flying, which they believe is too harmful to the environment.

A plan to set out on foot was hatched, and except for a stretch in Russia which was done by bus for safety reasons, 518 days and around 12,850 kilometers (7,980 miles) later they took the last steps to completing it.

Around 50 people gathered at the start point for the last 10km stretch of their odyssey, many local people who have been following them on social media.

Along the way their numbers swelled, as media, French residents of Shanghai and others joined.

"If your dreams are crazy, just take it step by step and sometimes you will not succeed, but sometimes you will," said Voisot.

Asked what he would do first now the walk was over, he joked: "Sleep a lot!"


Annual Orchids Show Brings Vivid Color to Chicago Winter

Orchids adorn a Volkswagen Beetle as finishing touches are placed on the 12th annual Chicago Botanic Garden Orchid Show, Friday, Feb. 6, 2026, in Glencoe, Ill. (AP)
Orchids adorn a Volkswagen Beetle as finishing touches are placed on the 12th annual Chicago Botanic Garden Orchid Show, Friday, Feb. 6, 2026, in Glencoe, Ill. (AP)
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Annual Orchids Show Brings Vivid Color to Chicago Winter

Orchids adorn a Volkswagen Beetle as finishing touches are placed on the 12th annual Chicago Botanic Garden Orchid Show, Friday, Feb. 6, 2026, in Glencoe, Ill. (AP)
Orchids adorn a Volkswagen Beetle as finishing touches are placed on the 12th annual Chicago Botanic Garden Orchid Show, Friday, Feb. 6, 2026, in Glencoe, Ill. (AP)

A soft layer of white snow blankets the grounds of the Chicago Botanic Garden. The air is chilly, the sky gray.

Inside, however, the air is warm and lights illuminate more than 10,000 vividly colored orchids. Staff members move in and out of greenhouses, preparing to open the garden’s 12th annual Orchid Show on Saturday.

This year’s theme is “Feelin’ Groovy" with several installations calling back to the 1970s, including a yellow Volkswagen Beetle filled with orchids.

“It’s just a really great way to get out of the winter cold and come into our greenhouses,” said Jodi Zombolo, associate vice president of visitor events and programs. “I think people are really looking for something to kind of bring happiness and something that they will enjoy and find whimsy in.”

The orchid family is one of the largest in the plant world and some of the species in the show are rare, exhibits horticulturist Jason Toth said. One example is the Angraecum sesquipedale, also known as Darwin’s orchid, on display in the west gallery.

Toth said the orchid led Darwin to correctly conclude that pollinators have adapted in order to reach down the flower's very long end.

"It has a great story and it’s quite remarkable-looking,” said Toth.

Elsewhere, massive, gnarly roots dangle from purple, pink and yellow Vanda orchids in the south greenhouse. These epiphytic orchids grow on the surface of trees instead of in soil.

“I think everyone’s tired of the winter,” said Toth. “So having some kind of flower show at this point is what we’re all craving. And 'Orchids' fits the bill.”

The show is expected to draw 85,000 visitors this year.