Designer Olivier Rousteing Leaves Balmain After 14 Years Fusing Couture Craft With Pop-Era Bravado

French fashion designer Olivier Rousteing acknowledges the audience at the end of the Balmain show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024, in Paris on September 27, 2023. (AFP)
French fashion designer Olivier Rousteing acknowledges the audience at the end of the Balmain show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024, in Paris on September 27, 2023. (AFP)
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Designer Olivier Rousteing Leaves Balmain After 14 Years Fusing Couture Craft With Pop-Era Bravado

French fashion designer Olivier Rousteing acknowledges the audience at the end of the Balmain show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024, in Paris on September 27, 2023. (AFP)
French fashion designer Olivier Rousteing acknowledges the audience at the end of the Balmain show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024, in Paris on September 27, 2023. (AFP)

Designer Olivier Rousteing is stepping down as creative director of the Balmain fashion house after 14 hugely visible years in which he fused the rigor of Parisian tailoring with a digital-age sense of celebrity, he announced Wednesday.

“Today marks the end of my Balmain era,” Rousteing, 40, wrote on Instagram. “What an extraordinary story it has been — a love story, a life story ... I will always hold this treasured time close to my heart."

Balmain confirmed Rousteing's departure and said in a statement that a new creative direction would be announced “in due course.”

“Throughout his remarkable 14-year tenure, Olivier’s visionary approach and creative brilliance propelled Balmain to unprecedented heights," the label said.

Rousteing, who became creative director in 2011 at age 25 after two years at the label, spent his tenure reviving a once-sleepy fashion house with a mix of couture craft and pop-era bravado.

He transformed Balmain into a headline-generating brand with a vision built on sequins, power shoulders and social media muscle, reframing French luxury for a generation raised on Instagram.

Under Rousteing, Balmain became as much about community as clothing. He cultivated what he called the “Balmain Army" — a loyal circle of models and stars including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian — which embodied the glamour and visibility he championed.

Runway shows became pop events, blurring the line between fashion show and stadium concert. The designer’s inclusive casting and celebration of diversity helped redefine the image of a Paris house often associated with old-world exclusivity.

Born in Bordeaux and adopted as an infant, Rousteing later learned that his biological parents were of Somali and Ethiopian origin — a revelation that he said deepened his sense of identity and creative mission. His collections often wove references to heritage, resilience and belonging, offering a modern counterpoint to the Eurocentric codes that once dominated French couture.

That personal resilience was tested again in 2020, when a fireplace explosion in his Paris home left him with severe burns across much of his body. Rousteing kept the accident private for nearly a year, designing in bandages while concealing his injuries from the public eye. When he revealed the ordeal on Instagram, posting an image of his scarred torso, the gesture was both raw and defiant — a reminder that vulnerability could coexist with glamour.

The designer’s candor about his trauma and recovery further humanized a figure once seen as fashion’s ultimate showman. In interviews, Rousteing said the experience stripped away fear and reinforced his belief in honesty and transparency. His subsequent collections, notably the Spring 2022 show marking Balmain’s 10th anniversary under his direction, were suffused with themes of healing, strength and rebirth, with corseted silhouettes and bandage motifs doubling as symbols of survival.

“Like every story, this one also has an ending,” Rousteing wrote on Instagram Wednesday. He thanked his team and colleagues, but did not say what his next step will be.

“Today, I leave the House of Balmain with my eyes still wide open — open to the future and to the beautiful adventures ahead, adventures in which all of you will have a place. A new era, a new beginning, a new story. THANK YOU.”



Zara Denies Infringing Jo Malone Trademark in Estee Lauder Case

The Zara clothing store logo is seen at the entrance of a store in Brussels, Belgium November 28, 2022. REUTERS/Yves Herman/File Photo
The Zara clothing store logo is seen at the entrance of a store in Brussels, Belgium November 28, 2022. REUTERS/Yves Herman/File Photo
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Zara Denies Infringing Jo Malone Trademark in Estee Lauder Case

The Zara clothing store logo is seen at the entrance of a store in Brussels, Belgium November 28, 2022. REUTERS/Yves Herman/File Photo
The Zara clothing store logo is seen at the entrance of a store in Brussels, Belgium November 28, 2022. REUTERS/Yves Herman/File Photo

Fashion retailer Zara has denied infringing Estee Lauder's Jo Malone trademark, saying in UK High Court filings that it uses the perfumer's name on fragrances it sells in collaboration with her in line with principles the cosmetics giant set out in 2020.

Estee Lauder bought Malone's eponymous perfume brand and the rights to use her name in 1999. Malone left the company in 2006 and launched a new fragrance label, "Jo Loves", in 2011, before starting a perfume collaboration with Zara in 2019.

Although the Zara perfume bottles only feature its own branding, the lawsuit brought by Estee Lauder against Malone, "Jo Loves", and Zara's UK business is based on the words "Jo Malone" being included in the product descriptions on Zara's website and "Created by Jo ⁠Malone CBE, founder ⁠of Jo Loves" on the back of the packaging.

A spokesperson for The Estée Lauder Companies declined to comment on the defense filing by ITX, the UK subsidiary of Zara owner Inditex, which was seen by Reuters.

The spokesperson referred to the company's statement when the suit was filed in March, saying Malone agreed in 1999 to "refraining from using the Jo Malone name in certain commercial contexts, including the marketing of fragrances".

ITX said in its defense filing that Estee Lauder complained in August 2020 about "Jo Malone" being ⁠used in a post on Zara's official Weibo social media account in China, but that the US company's lawyers had said in October of that year that this was within the permitted scope of use.

The ITX filing said Estee Lauder's lawyers at the same time set out principles for Zara's use of the name, saying Zara should use "Jo Malone CBE,Ms Jo Malone,Ms Malone" or "Jo" to differentiate between the individual and the brand, and not refer to her as founder of the fragrance brand Jo Malone.

The wording on the perfume packaging and on Zara's website is in accordance with those principles, ITX said in the filing.

ITX said the case triggers the broader question of how Malone "can fairly and legitimately refer to herself" in light of Estee Lauder's trademark. The Zara perfume ⁠descriptions now read: "In ⁠collaboration with perfumer Ms. Jo Malone CBE, founder of Jo Loves."

Malone, who did not immediately respond to an emailed request for comment, posted a video statement on her personal Instagram account last month about the use of her name.

"Seven years ago, I started to work with Zara, they approached me, they didn't approach a company, they didn't approach a brand, they didn't approach a logo, they approached me, Jo Malone, the person ... we have gone above and beyond to make sure everyone understands this has nothing to do with Jo Malone London the company," she said in the statement.

ITX also denied Estee Lauder's claim of "passing off" - the practice of misleading consumers into thinking goods or services are those of another company - and denied the lawsuit's characterization of its perfumes as "budget".

On Zara's UK website the perfumes, including "Energetically New York,Elegantly Tokyo," and "Fashionably London" are priced at 35.99 pounds ($48.82) per 100ml bottle. Jo Malone perfumes sell for 122 pounds and above for the same volume.

Inditex declined to comment on the ITX filing.


Superdry Co-founder Jailed by UK Court for Eight Years for Rape

FILE - People cue in the rain waiting for the grand opening of the Superdry store in New York's Times Square, on May 9, 2012. (AP Photo/Richard Drew, File)
FILE - People cue in the rain waiting for the grand opening of the Superdry store in New York's Times Square, on May 9, 2012. (AP Photo/Richard Drew, File)
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Superdry Co-founder Jailed by UK Court for Eight Years for Rape

FILE - People cue in the rain waiting for the grand opening of the Superdry store in New York's Times Square, on May 9, 2012. (AP Photo/Richard Drew, File)
FILE - People cue in the rain waiting for the grand opening of the Superdry store in New York's Times Square, on May 9, 2012. (AP Photo/Richard Drew, File)

The co-founder of British fashion brand Superdry, James Holder, was sentenced to eight years in jail for rape on Thursday at a court in southwest England.

A jury found Holder, 54, guilty last week of raping a woman in 2022 after meeting her in a bar in Cheltenham.

Judge David Chidgey described the rape by the multimillionaire fashion boss as "a despicable piece of sexual violence.”

"It was about your sense of entitlement and your sense of doing what you wanted and your causal disregard for the victim's absolute right to say what she wanted to do with her own body," Chidgey told Bristol Crown Court.

Holder was one of the co-founders of Superdry in 2003, but left the group in 2016.

The streetwear brand was delisted from the London Stock Exchange in 2024 after announcing a drop in sales and has rebranded as Superdry & Co.


Zalando Posts Higher Quarterly Growth on AI-driven Efficiency Gains

05 May 2026, Hamburg: Co-CEO of Zalando David Schroeder speaks during the OMR digital trade show at the Hamburg Messe exhibition halls. Photo: Daniel Bockwoldt/dpa
05 May 2026, Hamburg: Co-CEO of Zalando David Schroeder speaks during the OMR digital trade show at the Hamburg Messe exhibition halls. Photo: Daniel Bockwoldt/dpa
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Zalando Posts Higher Quarterly Growth on AI-driven Efficiency Gains

05 May 2026, Hamburg: Co-CEO of Zalando David Schroeder speaks during the OMR digital trade show at the Hamburg Messe exhibition halls. Photo: Daniel Bockwoldt/dpa
05 May 2026, Hamburg: Co-CEO of Zalando David Schroeder speaks during the OMR digital trade show at the Hamburg Messe exhibition halls. Photo: Daniel Bockwoldt/dpa

European online fashion retailer Zalando on Wednesday reported stronger quarterly growth, citing investments in artificial intelligence that were improving its efficiency.

Gross merchandise volume (GMV), a key revenue metric measuring the value of all goods sold, rose 21.7% to 4.3 billion euros ($5.03 billion) in the first quarter, compared to 3.5 billion euros a year earlier, Reuters quoted the company as saying.

Zalando highlighted the impact of its "Zalando Assistant", a chat-based AI tool that acts like a fashion stylist, providing beauty advice ⁠and allowing customers ⁠to receive personalized product suggestions through conversations.

The company added that AI-generated images were also helping it bring new partner items online faster and improve quality, allowing it to publish about 85% more content.

"Our strong first quarter demonstrates the strength of our strategy. We are very ⁠satisfied with the progress we’re making in strategically scaling AI innovations and integrating ABOUT YOU,” Co-CEO Robert Gentz said in a statement.

Zalando is investing heavily in refining its offer to customers and strengthening its European logistics network, which it has also opened up to partners, as it seeks to drive growth amid faltering consumer spend and competition from fast-fashion retailers with cheaper offerings such as Shein.

It concluded its acquisition of About You last year, in ⁠a deal ⁠valuing its smaller rival at 1.13 billion euros.

Shares in Zalando were flat by mid-morning, after initially rising as much as 4.6% in early trading.

The company confirmed its full-year guidance for 2026.

"Given the relatively high short interest, we would expect the stock to move higher, although the lack of implied upgrades and ongoing concerns on the mid-term outlook from the development of agentic commerce, mean that any material move up is unlikely to be sustained in our view," analysts at J.P. Morgan said.