Designer Gabriela Hearst Still Believes in 'Brilliance of Humanity' Despite AI

Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)
Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)
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Designer Gabriela Hearst Still Believes in 'Brilliance of Humanity' Despite AI

Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)
Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)

The "brilliance of humanity" will matter more, not less, in an AI world, Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst told AFP in an interview.

Natural materials and handmade craftsmanship are the hallmarks of Hearst's luxury brand, whose commitment to environmentally friendly fashion has secured her status as a sustainable style icon.

With celebrities including Kate Middleton, Julia Roberts and former US first lady Jill Biden wearing her personal brand, Hearst was also the first Latin American woman to lead the French fashion house Chloe from 2020 to 2023.

In a world threatened by climate crisis and the emergence of artificial intelligence, "there will be a genuine need for handmade creation," Hearst told AFP during a recent trip to Montevideo to present World Cup uniforms to the Uruguayan team.

"The human part, the part of our brain that is unique to us, the part that represents the brilliance of humanity, is going to matter more and more," she said.

The designer on the cusp of 50 prizes quality over quantity, and obstinately opposes fast fashion fads.

"There are so many clothes in the world," she said. "There's always a way to have a small amount, but of good quality."

Now based in New York, Hearst said she owes her intimate knowledge of quality, sustainability and "true beauty" to her native Uruguay.

"When I was little, I wanted to go travel, to see the world," she said.

"After traveling," she continued, "I was able to appreciate what it means to grow up with those star-filled skies, the nature, eating food from the land, the quality, the natural luxury that surrounded me."

"Clothes were passed down" in Hearst's community, she said, recalling picking through her mother's wardrobe filled with garments made by the family seamstress.

In her native country of 3.4 million people, hundreds of weavers work for Manos del Uruguay, a network of cooperatives that produces handcrafted garments for Hearst's brand.

The finished products end up on runways, Vogue magazine covers and even on-screen in "Sex and the City" movie sequel, where a multi-colored blanket designed by Hearst appears draped over Sarah Jessica Parker's legs.

"It's incredible that our craftsmanship reaches so far," said 60-year-old weaver Mabel Bargas, who works in one of the Manos del Uruguay workshops.

Hearst wants to leave a legacy of positive social impact by creating jobs and doing her bit for the environment.

"We can't afford to lose our human connection," she said, adding that people with privilege "have a responsibility to help others."



H&M Reports Smaller-than-expected Q2 Operating Profit

People walk past a closed H&M clothing store in Omsk, Russia, March 3, 2022. REUTERS/Alexey Malgavko
People walk past a closed H&M clothing store in Omsk, Russia, March 3, 2022. REUTERS/Alexey Malgavko
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H&M Reports Smaller-than-expected Q2 Operating Profit

People walk past a closed H&M clothing store in Omsk, Russia, March 3, 2022. REUTERS/Alexey Malgavko
People walk past a closed H&M clothing store in Omsk, Russia, March 3, 2022. REUTERS/Alexey Malgavko

Swedish fashion retailer H&M reported on Thursday a smaller-than-expected March-May profit as it was unable to fully meet demand after reducing the amount of clothing it keeps in stock, and predicted unchanged June sales.

Operating profit in H&M's fiscal second quarter was unchanged year-on-year at 5.91 billion crowns ($606.5 million), having risen three quarters in a row, against a mean forecast in an LSEG poll of analysts of 6.38 billion.

Sales measured in local currencies were roughly ⁠flat in the quarter, ⁠and H&M predicted flat local-currency sales also in June, year-on-year. Reuters quoted CEO Daniel Erver as saying in a statement that quarterly sales were somewhat lower than planned.

"The profitability improvement and increased inventory productivity are in line with our long-term work to lay the foundations for sustainable and ⁠profitable growth. The tighter inventory management has, however, in some cases affected our ability to fully meet demand," he said.

Excluding a one-off restructuring cost of 679 million crowns, related to organizational changes, operating profit rose 11%. The quarter was closely watched for how H&M weathered the Iran war's impact on consumer confidence and costs.

Profit margins held up, with the gross margin widening to 56.6% from 55.4% a year earlier against an expected ⁠56.5%.

H&M ⁠said it expected markdowns in the third quarter to be on a similar level to a year ago.
Erver is trying to attract more shoppers with trendier styles and overhauled marketing.

On May 7, H&M launched a collection in collaboration with designer Stella McCartney.

While H&M's profit margins have been improving, sales have been more sluggish as cut-price online retailers like Shein compete for price-sensitive customers while Inditex's Zara dominates the upmarket end of fast fashion.


Valentino 2025 Sales, Core Profit Slide as Debt Edges Higher

A model presents a creation by Italian fashion house Valentino during the show "Interferenze" Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection at Palazzo Barberini in Rome on March 12, 2026. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Italian fashion house Valentino during the show "Interferenze" Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection at Palazzo Barberini in Rome on March 12, 2026. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)
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Valentino 2025 Sales, Core Profit Slide as Debt Edges Higher

A model presents a creation by Italian fashion house Valentino during the show "Interferenze" Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection at Palazzo Barberini in Rome on March 12, 2026. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Italian fashion house Valentino during the show "Interferenze" Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection at Palazzo Barberini in Rome on March 12, 2026. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)

Italian luxury group Valentino reported lower sales and earnings in 2025 from the previous year, while its net debt increased, a company filing showed on Tuesday.

Revenue fell 15% to €1.12 billion, ‌while earnings ‌before interest, taxes, ‌depreciation ⁠and amortization (EBITDA) dropped 41% ⁠to €174 million, the filing said.

Net debt rose to €1.13 billion at the end of 2025 from €1.08 billion a ⁠year earlier, it ‌added.

Valentino ‌is controlled by Qatar-backed Mayhoola, ‌which owns 70% of ‌the company, while French luxury group Kering holds the remaining 30%.

The fashion house ‌has been facing a slowdown in luxury demand ⁠and ⁠in November received a €100 million capital injection from Kering and Mayhoola to shore up its finances after it breached loan covenants earlier in the year.


Giorgio Armani Closes Milan Menswear Week with Mediterranean-inspired Collection

A model presents a creation for Giorgio Armani's Spring/Summer 2027 men collection in Milan, Italy June 22, 2026. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo
A model presents a creation for Giorgio Armani's Spring/Summer 2027 men collection in Milan, Italy June 22, 2026. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo
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Giorgio Armani Closes Milan Menswear Week with Mediterranean-inspired Collection

A model presents a creation for Giorgio Armani's Spring/Summer 2027 men collection in Milan, Italy June 22, 2026. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo
A model presents a creation for Giorgio Armani's Spring/Summer 2027 men collection in Milan, Italy June 22, 2026. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo

Giorgio Armani closed the Milan Fashion Week on Monday with a summer menswear collection inspired by the Mediterranean, featuring earthy tones and lightweight natural fabrics.

Models sauntered through an arcaded courtyard in a historic downtown building wearing airy ⁠garments, including softly tailored trousers ⁠and safari jackets, often paired with large bags.

"There is enormous loyalty (to the late Giorgio Armani) but there is ⁠also a moving forward," Leo Dell'Orco, head of the men's style office and chairman of the group, told journalists on the sidelines of the event.

Reuters quoted Dell'Orco as saying that he had "lengthened and narrowed the silhouette" and used slightly ⁠longer ⁠jackets, with a cohesive color palette which spanned white, sand and shades of grey.

Alongside the menswear line-up, the show also unveiled the women's Cruise collection, the first designed by Silvana Armani, Giorgio's niece.