Wimbledon Clings onto Fashion Traditions, with a Twist

Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
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Wimbledon Clings onto Fashion Traditions, with a Twist

Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP

Amid fast-changing fashion trends, Wimbledon has remained a bastion of "classy" style, with players and attendees donning their finest whites at the London tennis tournament which some say is reminiscent of traditional British high society.

"This is Wimbledon! You've got to dress up," Jari Hedman, 65, said with a smile.

The Finnish tennis coach had bought an Italian-made white linen suit for the occasion, paired with a navy blue jacket and a flourish of color with an orange tie.

He had picked the "classy" attire "in honor of the tournament", Hedman told AFP.

The Wimbledon tennis championships, which runs from June 29 to July 12 this year and is the oldest of the Grand Slam tournaments, will celebrate its 150th anniversary next year.

The royals are regular attendees, especially Princess Kate, who is often praised for her elegant fashion choices.

Ahead of the tournament, the BBC published an article on "etiquette" or unwritten rules for attendees, while other newspapers chimed in with fashion tips.

"With its mix of royalty, A-listers and diehard fans, Wimbledon always has a sense of occasion, so why not make an effort?" advised The Times.

And what should one wear to the stands? "White, white, white. And light colors," said Lucie Ta, a 29-year-old engineer from Prague.

She was wearing a long white dress with black polka dots, a white jacket slung over her arm in case the weather cooled.

Anne Freeman, an American from Houston, donned a pearl-colored floral dress and a sleek Panama hat. "It's a way to be respectful of the tradition," she said.

'Insight' into UK's past

Wimbledon has the strictest dress code in the circuit for players, who are required to wear "suitable tennis attire that is almost entirely white" from "the point at which the player enters the court surround".

"White does not include off-white or cream," the dress code dictates.

The rules are rooted in the sport's aristocratic history, with white the color of choice for hiding sweat stains, which were considered improper.

Players have found ways, both subtle and unconventional, to bring their individual style to court within the dress code.

Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress with embroidered motifs of cranes and cherry blossoms, by Japanese designer Hana Yagi.

She paired the outfit with a traditional kanzashi hair ornament featuring white flowers before removing both to reveal a white Nike dress.

Osaka revealed she had the idea for the outfit after watching the Quentin Tarantino film "Kill Bill".

"I think about my cultures, my heritage, which is Japanese and Haitian. Then if I dive deeper into like Japanese culture, I think about the most iconic silhouette, which for me is a kimono," she said.

Serbia's Novak Djokovic wore a white Lacoste jacket with a green trimming, which, according to the brand, was inspired by those worn by "great champions" -- including Rene Lacoste -- in the 1920s.

Going to Wimbledon is "fascinating" as it gives "an insight into what the past of British society looked like," according to Daniel-Yaw Miller, a sports and fashion journalist.

The grass-court tournament "always was seen as a social scene" like the Ascot horse races, explained Elizabeth Wilson, who has penned a book on the history of tennis.

"Therefore people wanted to dress up, to look smart," she added.

In the 1950s, women wore formal hats, while in the 60s, they still wore gloves. "It has got very much more relaxed," said Wilson.

While spectators can dress however they like, Wimbledon still has a "very distinct aesthetic" and very "revered traditions," said Miller.

"I think the athletes and the fans really buy into the fact that it is unique."

Miller, a British man living in New York, enjoys comparing Wimbledon and the US Open: "You go from the most English thing imaginable to the most American thing imaginable in every sense of the word."

The US Open feels like "one big party," with entertainment, where it's sometimes even "hard to focus" on the tennis.

When he attended the Grand Slam across the pond, he wore shorts and a T-shirt. For Wimbledon, however, he opted for a polo shirt and smart trousers.



Stella McCartney Spotlights Climate Crisis with Ocean-Inspired Paris Runway Show

 A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)
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Stella McCartney Spotlights Climate Crisis with Ocean-Inspired Paris Runway Show

 A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)

Stella ‌McCartney put a spotlight on the impact of overfishing and climate change on the oceans in her Paris runway show on Wednesday, unveiling a Spring/Summer 2027 collection of floaty fabrics, bubble hems and wave motifs.

Killer whales, sharks and dolphins featured on several looks, while models carried transparent handbags with sea creatures such as a starfish inside.

"The fishing industry is stealth, it's war, we're at war with the ocean, we're at war with the creatures that live ‌in there," McCartney, a ‌vegetarian, said after the show, adding that ‌she ⁠wanted people to ⁠ask themselves: "Sea life or seafood — what's my choice?"

McCartney's eponymous brand is known for using no leather, unlike most luxury labels, and for investing in more sustainably produced cotton, wool and other materials. Her handbags are made with leather alternatives produced from mushrooms or grape byproducts sourced from vineyards.

In ⁠the leafy gardens of the British ‌ambassador's residence, the show started with ‌a voiceover from British natural historian and broadcaster David Attenborough ‌saying: "We must open our eyes to what is happening ‌right now below the waves - we have drained the life from our ocean."

Models strode down a white runway in low-rise trousers with raised waves embroidered on the hips, tops with voluminous bubble ‌hems, and fluid, sheer blazers and shirts. The color palette also evoked ocean life ⁠with dresses ⁠in aqua and bright blue, and a coral trench coat.

McCartney, who bought her brand back from luxury giant LVMH at the start of last year, called on big luxury brands to invest in scaling up more sustainable materials like organic cotton or lab-grown wool.

"I think they all have good intentions, I just know that it would help me and smaller brands trying to come up and trying to work in this way, if the big brands just accepted a new way of working and a new supply chain," she said.


Saint Laurent Goes for Gold in Paris Show That May Be Vaccarello’s Finale

 A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)
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Saint Laurent Goes for Gold in Paris Show That May Be Vaccarello’s Finale

 A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)

Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a head-to-toe gold collection of slinky dresses and textured tailoring at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday.

The spring/summer 2027 show marked 10 years since Vaccarello's first show for the Parisian label owned by luxury group Kering and came amid reports ‌he was ‌set to step down from ‌the ⁠role.

On a raised ⁠runway under a giant gold chandelier, models strode past wearing gold dresses with raised embroidery, gold brocade skirts and jackets with sharp collars, and gold trench coats.

The Eiffel ⁠Tower also glittered gold ‌in the ‌background of the show staged outdoors at the ‌Trocadero fountain, with front-row guests including ‌Blackpink singer Rosé, model Rosie Huntington-Whitely, and Oscar-winning actors Eddie Redmayne and Rami Malek.

Black gowns with billowing sleeves and ‌long trains were the final looks of the show, and Charlotte ⁠Gainsbourg ⁠performed a song in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello came out to applause from the crowd, smiling and waving.

Vaccarello is credited with expanding Saint Laurent's reach. The brand's revenues were down 6% last year but Kering said in July that it had returned to growth in the first half.


Women's Fashion Week Kicks Off in Paris

A model walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani collection show as part of Women's Spring/Summer 2027 Milan's fashion week, on September 27, 2026. (Photo by Stefano Rellandini / AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani collection show as part of Women's Spring/Summer 2027 Milan's fashion week, on September 27, 2026. (Photo by Stefano Rellandini / AFP)
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Women's Fashion Week Kicks Off in Paris

A model walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani collection show as part of Women's Spring/Summer 2027 Milan's fashion week, on September 27, 2026. (Photo by Stefano Rellandini / AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani collection show as part of Women's Spring/Summer 2027 Milan's fashion week, on September 27, 2026. (Photo by Stefano Rellandini / AFP)

Paris Women's Fashion Week opens Monday with a debut show from South African brand MaXhosa Africa and a fresh collection from new-ish Canadian trendsetters Matieres Fecales, look to lift the gloom surrounding the sector.

A total of 67 catwalk shows for 2027 Spring-Summer have been planned for this Fashion Week, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital.

Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their models out on Tuesday.

It could be a last show for Saint Laurent's Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been the driving force behind the brand's success for the past decade but is reportedly heading for the exit.

If his departure is confirmed, he is unlikely to be the only creative director heading for the chop as label owners and chief executives look to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands.

At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly in the sights of parent company Kering, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed.

At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz.

"There were the 'golden years' (for the sector) after Covid, a peak in 2023 and then a luxury market that stabilized," Pascal Morand, executive president of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, told AFP.

"The major groups, mid-sized brands and young designers are not affected in the same way. Markets, outlets and business models are evolving," he said.

Although sales are falling for many brands, there are bright spots.

Since his arrival a year ago at the helm of Chanel, Matthieu Blazy has created a buzz and sales frenzy at the classic French label, with customers queueing outside some boutiques for his latest collections.

His Spring-Summer show takes place next Monday.

Another brand with reason for cheer is MaXhosa Africa, a luxury knitwear group founded in 2010 by textile designer Laduma Ngxokolo, who has already shown collections privately in Paris but has now been invited to join the official program.

On a mission to promote South African culture and the traditions of the Xhosa people, Ngxokolo counts Michelle Obama and Beyonce as fans.

With his first show on Monday, he will be hoping to emulate the success of Matieres Fecales, the Canadian brand which first appeared in March last year but has gone on to dress a host of celebrities and A-listers.

Its unusual name -- which means fecal matter in French -- was chosen to ensure that people who bought the brand's clothing only wanted it for the design, rather than the name on the label.

After events by Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova, the Matieres Fecales show at 7:00pm (1700 GMT) will bring the first day of Paris Fashion Week to a close.