Hey, Chocolate Lovers: New Study Traces Complex Origins of Cacao

Cacao beans are seen at "Minimal - Bean to Bar Chocolate - " shop, manufacturer that oversees the chocolate production from sourcing the cacao beans to making the chocolate bars in the shop, in Tokyo, Japan July 20, 2017. (Reuters)
Cacao beans are seen at "Minimal - Bean to Bar Chocolate - " shop, manufacturer that oversees the chocolate production from sourcing the cacao beans to making the chocolate bars in the shop, in Tokyo, Japan July 20, 2017. (Reuters)
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Hey, Chocolate Lovers: New Study Traces Complex Origins of Cacao

Cacao beans are seen at "Minimal - Bean to Bar Chocolate - " shop, manufacturer that oversees the chocolate production from sourcing the cacao beans to making the chocolate bars in the shop, in Tokyo, Japan July 20, 2017. (Reuters)
Cacao beans are seen at "Minimal - Bean to Bar Chocolate - " shop, manufacturer that oversees the chocolate production from sourcing the cacao beans to making the chocolate bars in the shop, in Tokyo, Japan July 20, 2017. (Reuters)

Scientists are getting a better taste of the early history of the domestication and use of cacao - the source of chocolate - thanks to residues detected on a batch of ancient ceramics from South and Central America.

Using evidence from these artifacts, the researchers traced the rapid spread of cacao through trade routes after its initial domestication more than five millennia ago in Ecuador. They showed cacao's dispersal to South America's northwestern Pacific coast and later into Central America until it eventually reached Mexico 1,500 years later.

A tropical evergreen tree called Theobroma cacao bears large, oval pods containing the bean-like cacao seeds that today are roasted and turned into cocoa and multitudes of chocolate confections. In these ancient times, cacao was consumed as a beverage or an ingredient with other foods.

The researchers tested more than 300 pre-Columbian ceramics spanning nearly 6,000 years for traces of cacao DNA and three chemical compounds related to it, including caffeine. They discovered cacao evidence on about 30% of them. The findings indicate cacao products were used more widely among these ancient cultures than previously known.

The ceramics themselves offered an artistic glimpse at the cultures, some displaying wondrous anthropomorphic designs.

A study published in 2018 revealed the domestication and use of cacao beginning about 5,300 years ago in Ecuador, based on evidence from ceramics at the Santa Ana-La Florida archeological site. The new study builds on that by tracking cacao's spread through 19 pre-Columbian cultures. Some of the earliest use was shown through ceramics made by the Valdivia culture in Ecuador and Puerto Hormiga culture in Colombia.

The ancient DNA found on the ceramics also indicated that various cultures cross-bred cacao trees to adapt to new environments.

"The first steps of cacao domestication correspond to a more complex process than the one we had previously hypothesized," said molecular geneticist Claire Lanaud from the AGAP unit of CIRAD, a French agricultural research center for international development, lead author of the study published on Thursday in the journal Scientific Reports.

"We were not at all aware of such an important domestication of cacao trees all along the Pacific coast in South America in the pre-Columbian times, and so early. The significant genetic mixing that was observed testifies to numerous interactions that could have happened between peoples from Amazonia and the Pacific coast," Lanaud added.

Cacao's dispersal from Ecuador to Mesoamerica may have occurred through vast and interconnected political-economic networks, according to the researchers.

"First of all, we can firmly state that the origin of cacao and its domestication was the Upper Amazon and not in the tropics of Mesoamerica - Mexico and Central America. The process of dispersal was rather quick and involved the close and long-distance interaction of the Amerindian people," said archaeologist and study co-author Francisco Valdez of the PALOC unit of France's IRD research institution and Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle in Paris.

"Maritime contacts must have been involved as well as the inland contacts. Previously, the common (belief) was that cacao was domesticated in the Mesoamerican lowlands and that it was dispersed from there to the south," Valdez said.

The study provides insight into the earliest trade in what is now one of the world's most important cash crops. Today's sugary chocolate confections differ greatly from cacao's early uses. Before Europeans reached the Americas five centuries ago, cultures like the Aztecs and Maya prepared it as a drink, mixed with various spices or other ingredients.

"Cacao as a plant is an energy-source food, as well as a medicinal product," Valdez said. "Amerindian people used it in many ways. Raw, the pulp was sucked. The (cacao seed) could be cooked, roasted, grinded and made into liquid and solid foods. The bark, branches and the cob can be burned, and the ashes are an antiseptic. And it is also used to relieve skin or muscle inflammations and sores."



Dutch Coastal Village Turns to Tech to Find Lost Fishermen

Volunteers from the local fishing community in Urk have launched a campaign using DNA analysis and artificial intelligence to locate the remains of fishermen lost at sea. Nicolas TUCAT / AFP
Volunteers from the local fishing community in Urk have launched a campaign using DNA analysis and artificial intelligence to locate the remains of fishermen lost at sea. Nicolas TUCAT / AFP
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Dutch Coastal Village Turns to Tech to Find Lost Fishermen

Volunteers from the local fishing community in Urk have launched a campaign using DNA analysis and artificial intelligence to locate the remains of fishermen lost at sea. Nicolas TUCAT / AFP
Volunteers from the local fishing community in Urk have launched a campaign using DNA analysis and artificial intelligence to locate the remains of fishermen lost at sea. Nicolas TUCAT / AFP

Jan van den Berg stares out at the sea where his father vanished seven decades ago -- lost in a storm just days before his birth. Now aged 70, he clings to the hope of finding even the smallest fragment of his father's remains.

In Urk, a fishing village in the northern Netherlands, the sea has long been the lifeblood for families -- but has often taken loved ones in return.

Some bodies never surfaced. Others washed ashore on German or Danish coasts and were buried in unnamed graves.

Despite the tragedy, Van den Berg -- the last of six children -- became a fisherman like his brothers, defying their mother's terror that the North Sea would claim her sons too.

"We never found his body," he told AFP in a low voice, mumbling under the brim of his hat.

But after decades of uncertainty, advances in DNA technology and artificial intelligence have given Van den Berg renewed hope.

Researchers are now able to match remains with living relatives more accurately than ever before, offering families long-awaited answers and the chance to finally mourn properly.

"Many families still gaze at the front door, hoping their loved-one will walk through it," said Teun Hakvoort, an Urk resident who serves as spokesperson for a new foundation dedicated to locating and identifying fishermen lost at sea.

"All sunken boats have been mapped. Using modern tech, we look at the weather and currents at the time of the shipwreck to estimate where the fishermen might have washed ashore," the 60-year-old said.

Found after 47 years

The foundation, Identiteit Gezocht (Identity Sought), aims to list all unknown graves on the coasts of the North Sea, hoping to identify remains.

The new searches have already borne fruit. A body was recently exhumed on Schiermonnikoog, a small island north of the Netherlands, and returned to the family.

"This man had been missing for 47 years. After all this time, DNA and this new method of work made it possible to discover he came from Urk," said Hakvoort.

Another Hakvoort, Frans Hakvoort, leads the foundation with the support of his two brothers in Urk, a tight-knit Protestant community where certain family names frequently reoccur.

The three men, who have all lost a relative at sea, dedicate their free time to searching for the missing.

"With AI, we search for press articles published after a body washed ashore, possibly in specific circumstances," said Frans Hakvoort, 44.

"We enter all this information into a database to see if we can establish a link. If so, we contact local authorities to see if they can exhume the body."

The Netherlands leads other North Sea countries in identifying the missing, he said, with about 90 percent of unknown bodies exhumed and all DNA profiles stored in a European database.

Given the usual fishing areas and prevailing currents, Urk fishermen are more likely to be buried on German or Danish coasts, he said.

The foundation has called on the public to help identify unknown graves in Germany and Denmark.

Human remains

Jan van den Berg runs his fingers over his father's name, engraved on a monument overlooking Urk beach to honor lost fishermen.

The list is long. More than 300 names -- fathers, brothers, and sons, with dates stretching back to the 18th century.

Among the names are about 30 fishermen never found. Kees Korf, missing since 1997 aged 19. Americo Martins, 47, in 2015.

A statue of a woman, her back turned to the sea, represents all these mothers and wives hoping their loved-one returns.

"My father disappeared during a storm on a freezing October night in 1954," says Van den Berg.

"One morning he left the port heading for the North Sea. He was not supposed to be gone long because I was about to be born."

His uncle, who was also aboard, later said his father was on deck when wild waves flipped the boat over.

The tragedy still haunts the family to this day.

"When they pulled the nets on deck with fish, my older brothers always feared there might be something that looked like a human," van den Berg said.

In 1976, his uncle's boat disappeared with two of his cousins, aged 15 and 17, also on board.

He was among those who found the body of Jan Jurie, the eldest, four months later.

The others were never found.

"Not a day goes by without thinking of them, all those men, and that is why I take part in the searches and give my DNA, because it remains an open wound," he said.

"I would like to have at least a small bone of my father to place in my mother's grave." And finally be able to mourn.