Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
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Afghan Cook Pours His Heart Into ‘Teapot’ Lamb Stew 

This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)
This photo taken on June 14, 2023 shows cook Kumail filling teapots with ingredients to prepare the traditional Chainaki lamb dish stew inside a restaurant at Koch-e Kafuroshi in Kabul. (AFP)

In the kitchen of his Kabul restaurant, one of the last cooks to master the Afghan culinary art of "chainaki" stuffs chunks of lamb and fat into about 200 tiny teapots to simmer for hours atop a clay stove.

From dawn onwards, Waheed is a study in concentration as he checks the pots time and again -- making sure each is marinading with the precise proportion of fat rendered.

Once the pots are bubbling to his satisfaction he adds salt and lentils, before bathing the contents in a tomato-coloured sauce and secret spices.

"The recipe has been the same for over 60 years, passed down to me by my father," says Waheed, 45, who prefers to give only one name.

"He himself inherited it from his father. I haven't changed a thing."

With the fire crackling, the teapots -- many decades old, chipped or missing handles -- are covered with a sheet as the contents simmer away.

The heat quickly fills the restaurant and the heady smell of stewed lamb hangs heavy in the air.

Only then can Waheed take a break to tell his story.

He dropped out of school at 13 to hang around the kitchens in his father's restaurants before being handed the secret recipe -- which he worries may be revealed to his competitors through media coverage.

Some like it fat

The lamb stew he makes gets its name from the teapot -- "chainak" in several local languages -- in which it is cooked.

"I don't add any vegetable oil," he says, but the amount of lamb fat in each pot varies according to the taste of the customers arriving in a few hours.

Waheed took over the restaurant aged just 25 after his father died -- and confesses his own dish isn't quite as good.

"No pupil can replace his teacher, just as we can't replace our father," he says.

But he expects the family business may end when he calls it quits, as none of his 10 children wants to follow on.

"They're studying at school. They don't have the patience to do this work," he says.

After five hours of closely supervised cooking the chainaki is ready and the customers -- many already sitting cross-legged on platforms -- can finally enjoy their meal.

The stew is poured onto plates, eaten with ubiquitous unleavened Afghan bread, and washed down with lashings of green tea.

It costs 200 Afghanis ($2.30) a serving.

"When I eat it, I feel energetic until the evening," says Zabihullah, who has been a regular for 15 years, visiting up to three times a week.

"It's so delicious and tasty," adds Ghulam Usman Tarin, a more recent convert.

Over the years Waheed has served Afghan celebrities, politicians, as well as the few foreigners that seek out his humble restaurant -- and he puts his money where his mouth is, eating it himself every day.

He is usually sold out shortly after lunch, but then it is straight back to work as he carves up a sheep carcass for meat and fat to make the next day's serving.

"I'll keep doing it as long as I am strong enough," he says.



Adieu Paris as Niger Nixes Colonial French Place Names

This photograph taken in Niamey on October 15, 2024 shows children standing in front of the new plaque where Avenue General Charles de Gaulle was renamed to Avenue Djibo Bakary, named after the Nigerien political figure (1922-1998) who was the first mayor of Niamey (1956-1958), the president of the Niger Government Council (May 1957-October 1958) and a supporter of the immediate independence of Niger in the referendum called in 1958 by Former French President General Charles de Gaulle. (AFP)
This photograph taken in Niamey on October 15, 2024 shows children standing in front of the new plaque where Avenue General Charles de Gaulle was renamed to Avenue Djibo Bakary, named after the Nigerien political figure (1922-1998) who was the first mayor of Niamey (1956-1958), the president of the Niger Government Council (May 1957-October 1958) and a supporter of the immediate independence of Niger in the referendum called in 1958 by Former French President General Charles de Gaulle. (AFP)
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Adieu Paris as Niger Nixes Colonial French Place Names

This photograph taken in Niamey on October 15, 2024 shows children standing in front of the new plaque where Avenue General Charles de Gaulle was renamed to Avenue Djibo Bakary, named after the Nigerien political figure (1922-1998) who was the first mayor of Niamey (1956-1958), the president of the Niger Government Council (May 1957-October 1958) and a supporter of the immediate independence of Niger in the referendum called in 1958 by Former French President General Charles de Gaulle. (AFP)
This photograph taken in Niamey on October 15, 2024 shows children standing in front of the new plaque where Avenue General Charles de Gaulle was renamed to Avenue Djibo Bakary, named after the Nigerien political figure (1922-1998) who was the first mayor of Niamey (1956-1958), the president of the Niger Government Council (May 1957-October 1958) and a supporter of the immediate independence of Niger in the referendum called in 1958 by Former French President General Charles de Gaulle. (AFP)

Niger bid goodbye to the Avenue Charles de Gaulle on Tuesday as its ruling junta renamed several historic sites in the capital Niamey which previously bore references to old colonial master France.

Since taking power in a coup in July 2023, the Sahel nation's military rulers have turned their backs on Paris, instead forging ties with fellow juntas in Burkina Faso and Mali -- as well as Russia.

With the sound of marching bands blaring in the background, several junta officials took to the streets to witness the new names' inauguration.

"Most of our avenues, boulevards and streets... bear names that are simply reminders of the suffering and bullying our people endured during the ordeal of colonization," said Major Colonel Abdramane Amadou, Minister for Youth and a junta spokesman.

"The avenue which once bore the name of General Charles de Gaulle is henceforth christened 'Avenue Djibo Bakary'," Amadou added.

A socialist politician who died in 1998, Bakary was a key figure in the struggle for Niger's independence, which it obtained in 1960.

A few hundred meters further on, the memorial to those who died in the two world wars now pays "homage to all civilian and military victims of colonization to the present day".

With the ruling junta frequently accusing France of wishing to topple it, the renaming of monuments and streets marks a symbolic confirmation of Niger's break with its former imperial ruler.

Since the coup, Niger's authorities have expelled both the French soldiers fighting against the region's persistent extremist threat and the French ambassador, while the Franco-Nigerien cultural center is no longer run as a joint venture and has been renamed after Niger's filmmaker Moustapha Alassane.

- 'Honour our ancestors' -

Other monuments across Niamey will bear new names from Tuesday onwards.

A portrait of French commander and explorer Parfait-Louis Monteil, engraved for decades in stone, was replaced by a plaque bearing the effigy of neighboring Burkina Faso's iconic communist leader Thomas Sankara.

An anti-imperialist hero nicknamed Africa's Che Guevara, Sankara was killed in a 1987 coup his widow and supporters accuse France of having a hand in organizing.

Amadou hailed Sankara as a man whose "struggle for liberation" and "emancipation of peoples" was "still inspiring people" today.

Meanwhile the Place de Francophonie was renamed after the Alliance of Sahel States -- a confederation created with Mali and Burkina Faso in 2023, cementing relations between the coup-hit countries.

All three had their membership suspended to the 88-state International Organization of La Francophonie in the wake of their coups.

From now on "we are going to honor our ancestors", vowed General Assoumane Abdou Harouna, the capital region's governor and a junta figure.

Oumarou Abdourahamane, president of the Niger branch of the NGO Urgences Panafricanistes, welcomed the new names.

"It makes no sense for our streets to continue to bear the names of former colonists... and so justice is being done by renaming these streets, by naming them after our country's heroes," he said.

Urgences Panafricanistes is headed at the international level by activist Kemi Seba, known for his virulent anti-Western views, who was arrested on Monday in Paris for as-yet unknown reasons.

Seba, who was born in France to Beninese parents, holds a Nigerien diplomatic passport as special adviser to junta leader Abdourahamane Tiani.

The controversial militant, who was recently stripped of his French nationality, is a radical black power activist who is regularly accused of anti-Semitism and has been sentenced in France several times for incitement to racial hatred.

In June 2023, shortly before the coup that toppled elected president Mohamed Bazoum, Niger also adopted a new national anthem titled "For the honor of the fatherland", which references the anti-colonial struggle.

It replaced "La Nigerienne", whose lyrics were written by French composer Maurice Albert Thiriet in 1961, a year after the country gained its independence.