Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
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Scent of Luxury: India’s Jasmine Infuses Global Perfume

In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)
In this picture taken on June 27, 2023, a farmer harvests jasmine flowers in a farmland on the outskirts of Madurai. (AFP)

Heady scents fill the air as skilled pickers in India pluck white jasmine before the still fresh buds are rushed for processing into a valuable ingredient for global perfumes.

Jasmine only issues its powerful scent when it blooms at night, and pickers must select only the ones yet to open.

"We know which one to pick," said Malarkodi, who gave only one name, as she snapped her fingers carefully to pluck the buds, tucking into her hair a few flowers that had already bloomed.

"There is no use of these... but I like the smell," she said.

Jasmine's fragrant flowers have been used for millennia in India and the scent is a key part of world-famous perfumes.

In the ancient city of Madurai in southern India, jasmine is omnipresent -- attracting buyers from some of the world's most recognizable perfumes, including J'adore by Dior and Mon Guerlain by Guerlain.

"It is one of the most expensive oils in the world," said Raja Palaniswamy, a director of Jasmine Concrete, which squeezes vast quantities of jasmine to create a few precious drops of delicious-smelling essence.

The women picking the buds earn around $1.50 a day per day for about four to five kilograms -- with each kilogram made up of around 4,000 buds.

Once picked, the jasmine is rushed to market, selling for anything between 200 and 2,000 rupees ($2.40-$24) a kilogram on special days.

The jasmine of Madurai, an Asian variety with the scientific name Jasminum sambac, was given a "geographical indication" tag from the World Intellectual Property Organization in 2013, which noted its "deep fragrance".

"It is lush, it is rich, it is vibrant," said Thierry Wasser, perfumer and "nose" at French beauty house Guerlain, speaking to AFP while visiting the jasmine operators.

The jasmine in Madurai has a "smoothness... and something floral which is immutable," Wasser added. Wasser sources the jasmine oil he uses from Palaniswamy's company.

As well as Guerlain, Palaniswamy said his company sells jasmine oil to companies including Bulgari, Dior and Lush.

'Real fragrance'

The process to extract the oil requires long hours of labor.

The women who pluck the jasmine -- be it for their deity, weddings, funerals or expensive perfumes -- have no time to romance its appeal.

In a jasmine field on the outskirts of the ancient city, women tenderly move the branches of the bush, looking for the perfect bud.

The processing factory runs around the clock in harvest season, with workers raking out fresh-picked flowers and waiting for the oblong-shaped buds to bloom.

"The minute it starts blooming, it starts emitting its fragrance," Palaniswamy said.

Late in the night, as the jasmine's sweet scent fills the air, workers collect the blooms and load them into extractors.

The freshly picked jasmine is immersed in a solvent to absorb the fragrance molecules to give a waxy extract called concrete.

The concrete is further processed with alcohol to remove the waxes carefully, which then results in a potent absolute. This absolute becomes the ingredient in perfumes.

Around 700 kilograms of fresh jasmine is reduced to just one kilogram of oil, selling for around $4,200, Palaniswamy said.

But Amsavalli Karuppuswamy, who runs a stall outside the flower market where she threads flowers into garlands, said the fresh jasmine will always outweigh any oil.

"I will continue to do this job till I die... women like jasmine, so that is why we are doing this," she said.

"The scents are not worth as much as the original jasmine flowers -- nothing can match the real fragrance of the jasmine."



Jeddah to Host Makkah Int’l Conference on Arabic Language, Literature Next Month

The Saudi flag. Asharq Al-Awsat
The Saudi flag. Asharq Al-Awsat
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Jeddah to Host Makkah Int’l Conference on Arabic Language, Literature Next Month

The Saudi flag. Asharq Al-Awsat
The Saudi flag. Asharq Al-Awsat

The sixth annual Makkah International Conference on Arabic Language and Literature, themed "Arabic Language and the Challenges of Digitization," will take place January 3-5, 2025 at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Jeddah Al Salam.
Organized under the umbrella of the Saudi Conventions and Exhibitions General Authority (SCEGA), the event will bring together academics, researchers, and graduate students from 17 countries, including Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, the UAE, Oman, Jordan, Iraq, Yemen, Egypt, Sudan, Libya, Algeria, Chad, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the UK, and Italy.
The head of the conference organizing committee, Dr. Abdulrahman bin Mohammed Al-Zahrani, highlighted the conference's objectives, including fostering communication among Arabic language specialists, exchanging expertise, and showcasing the latest scientific research in Arabic studies and digital applications. The conference also aims to enhance cultural pride in Arabic, the language of the Holy Quran, while spotlighting efforts by individuals and institutions in advancing Arabic learning both physically and virtually.
The three-day conference will feature 10 scientific sessions with 40 peer-reviewed research papers, exploring various aspects of Arabic language and literature. Additionally, 10 scientific posters will showcase research projects, initiatives, and successful experiences. A special training workshop titled “AI Applications in the Arabic Language” will also be held, focusing on modern technological tools and their role in advancing Arabic education.
The conference serves as a platform to bridge traditional Arabic studies with modern digital innovations, reflecting the evolving landscape of Arabic language teaching and research.