Fake Luxuries Supplant Tradition in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar

This photograph taken on July 9, 2024 shows a shop displaying items said to be from 'luxury' brands at historical Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (Photo by Yasin AKGUL / AFP)
This photograph taken on July 9, 2024 shows a shop displaying items said to be from 'luxury' brands at historical Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (Photo by Yasin AKGUL / AFP)
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Fake Luxuries Supplant Tradition in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar

This photograph taken on July 9, 2024 shows a shop displaying items said to be from 'luxury' brands at historical Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (Photo by Yasin AKGUL / AFP)
This photograph taken on July 9, 2024 shows a shop displaying items said to be from 'luxury' brands at historical Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (Photo by Yasin AKGUL / AFP)

Cut-price branded perfumes and fake high-end handbags line the ornate alleys of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, with traditional merchants saying the luxury counterfeits are stripping the marketplace of its character.

Where heritage Turkish crafts once flourished under the Ottoman-era marketplace's painted ceilings, the elegant carpet store run by Hasim Gureli is now surrounded by shops selling designer dupes, Agence France Presse reported.

"Back in the day, imitations were rare," said Gureli, who is vice-president of the bazaar's traders' association and a member of its board of directors.

"When some people started selling fake bags, they kept themselves hidden. They were afraid of the state," the carpet-seller added.

Many others among the bazaar's old-timers, who have fond memories of the small workshops that used to fill its labyrinthine alleyways, despair at seeing it overrun by fraudulent facsimiles.

Two aisles down, tea set-seller Gazi Uludag lamented that the Grand Bazaar has "lost its unique character".

"There is nothing but imported or counterfeit goods left and it's getting worse every year," he said.

In her handmade carpet store, Florence Heilbronn-Ogutgen bemoaned the fact that an artisan friend "who used to make real, beautiful bags in very good leather" had to shutter his shop, unable to make a living.

For the shopkeeper, who has been at the bazaar since 1998, artisans "can no longer survive" in the face of competition from the dubious dupes.

"These days, the finest boutiques are the counterfeit ones!" she said.

"They're the only ones left who can afford the $10,000 to $15,000 a month rent on the main alley. The bazaar has lost its soul."

Cheap luxury

One of the world's largest covered markets, the almost six-centuries-old Grand Bazaar attracts millions of tourists every year -- many of them lured by the promise of cheap luxury.

"All of Europe comes here! I've even had footballer's wives," beamed 36-year-old Kemal, reluctant to give his surname for fear of checks on his merchandise.

Kemal made his living selling "made in Türkiye" counterfeits for 15 years, before luxury fakes began taking over each of the bazaar's hallowed shop windows one by one.

His imitation Celine calfskin and Saint Laurent quilted leather handbags "are of the same quality as the originals, but five to 10 times cheaper", the vendor promised.

Whatever the bag, a knock-off can be found at the Grand Bazaar.

"If you can find it on the Champs-Elysees, then you can find it here," he said.

'Very high profits'

As one of the main countries for the production and transit of counterfeit goods, along with China and Hong Kong, knock-offs are ubiquitous in Türkiye.

The trade supports a whole economy of its own, from the small retailers to the manufacturers who also export their counterfeits to the European Union.

"They make very high profits. You can see handbags being sold for thousands of dollars in the Grand Bazaar," said Dilara Bural, a criminologist at the UK's University of Bath.

Organized crime may be at work, "but we can't generalize and say that every single counterfeiting scheme in Türkiye is linked to organized crime. That's not true," she underlined.



Culture Being Strangled by Kosovo's Political Crisis

The cinema has been waiting for much-needed repairs for years. Armend NIMANI / AFP
The cinema has been waiting for much-needed repairs for years. Armend NIMANI / AFP
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Culture Being Strangled by Kosovo's Political Crisis

The cinema has been waiting for much-needed repairs for years. Armend NIMANI / AFP
The cinema has been waiting for much-needed repairs for years. Armend NIMANI / AFP

Kosovo's oldest cinema has been dark and silent for years as the famous theater slowly disintegrates under a leaky roof.

Signs warn passers-by in the historic city of Prizren that parts of the Lumbardhi's crumbling facade could fall while it waits for its long-promised refurbishment.

"The city deserves to have the cinema renovated and preserved. Only junkies gathering there benefit from it now," nextdoor neighbor butcher Arsim Futko, 62, told AFP.

For seven years, it waited for a European Union-funded revamp, only for the money to be suddenly withdrawn with little explanation.

Now it awaits similar repairs promised by the national government that has since been paralyzed by inconclusive elections in February.

And it is anyone's guess whether the new government that will come out of Sunday's snap election will keep the promise.

'Collateral damage'

Cinema director Ares Shporta said the cinema has become "collateral damage" in a broader geopolitical game after the EU hit his country with sanctions in 2023.

The delayed repairs "affected our morale, it affected our lives, it affected the trust of the community in us," Shporta said.

Brussels slapped Kosovo with sanctions over heightened tensions between the government and the ethnic Serb minority that live in parts of the country as Pristina pushed to exert more control over areas still tightly linked to Belgrade.

Cultural institutions have been among the hardest-hit sectors, as international funding dried up and local decisions were stalled by the parliamentary crisis.

According to an analysis by the Kosovo think tank, the GAP Institute for Advanced Studies, sanctions have resulted in around 613 million euros ($719 million) being suspended or paused, with the cultural sector taking a hit of 15-million-euro hit.

'Ground zero'

With political stalemate threatening to drag on into another year, there are warnings that further funding from abroad could also be in jeopardy.

Since February's election when outgoing premier Albin Kurti topped the polls but failed to win a majority, his caretaker government has been deadlocked with opposition lawmakers.

Months of delays, spent mostly without a parliament, meant little legislative work could be done.

Ahead of the snap election on Sunday, the government said that more than 200 million euros ($235 million) will be lost forever due to a failure to ratify international agreements.

Once the top beneficiary of the EU Growth Plan in the Balkans, Europe's youngest country now trails most of its neighburs, the NGO Group for Legal and Political Studies' executive director Njomza Arifi told AFP.

"While some of the countries in the region have already received the second tranches, Kosovo still remains at ground zero."

Although there have been some enthusiastic signs of easing a half of EU sanctions by January, Kurti's continued push against Serbian institutions and influence in the country's north continues to draw criticism from both Washington and Brussels.

'On the edge'

Across the river from the Lumbardhi, the funding cuts have also been felt at Dokufest, a documentary and short film festival that draws people to the region.

"The festival has had to make staff cuts. Unfortunately, there is a risk of further cuts if things don't change," Dokufest artistic director Veton Nurkollari said.

"Fortunately, we don't depend on just one source because we could end up in a situation where, when the tap is turned off, everything is turned off."

He said that many in the cultural sector were desperate for the upcoming government to get the sanctions lifted by ratification of the agreements that would allow EU funds to flow again.

"Kosovo is the only one left on the edge and without these funds."


Saudi Culture Ministry Concludes Intangible Cultural Heritage Documentation Project in Al-Ahsa

Saudi Culture Ministry Concludes Intangible Cultural Heritage Documentation Project in Al-Ahsa
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Saudi Culture Ministry Concludes Intangible Cultural Heritage Documentation Project in Al-Ahsa

Saudi Culture Ministry Concludes Intangible Cultural Heritage Documentation Project in Al-Ahsa

The Saudi Ministry of Culture concluded the project to survey, document, and archive intangible cultural heritage in Al-Ahsa Governorate by holding a workshop in the governorate, attended by stakeholders and relevant entities, as part of the ministry’s efforts to preserve national cultural heritage and strengthen Saudi cultural identity, reported the Saudi Press Agency on Thursday.

The project included a field survey covering various cities and villages across Al-Ahsa, during which diverse elements of intangible cultural heritage were identified and documented. These included oral traditions, performing arts, skills associated with traditional cultural crafts, social practices, and knowledge related to nature and the local environment.

The work was carried out in cooperation with concerned entities, specialized experts, and local practitioners.

The workshop reviewed the project’s final outcomes and presented reports on documentation and digital archiving activities.

It discussed mechanisms to ensure the sustainability of these efforts and the transmission of this cultural legacy to future generations, contributing to greater community awareness of the value and importance of intangible cultural heritage.


Hail Region Pavilion Showcases Heritage Artifacts at Camel Festival

The pavilion aims to connect visitors to Hail's history and social legacy - SPA
The pavilion aims to connect visitors to Hail's history and social legacy - SPA
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Hail Region Pavilion Showcases Heritage Artifacts at Camel Festival

The pavilion aims to connect visitors to Hail's history and social legacy - SPA
The pavilion aims to connect visitors to Hail's history and social legacy - SPA

Hail Region pavilion at the Ministry of Interior’s Security Oasis exhibition, part of the 10th King Abdulaziz Camel Festival in Al-Sayahid, features heritage artifacts that reflect the region's renowned hospitality.

The display includes ancient trays and copperware from nearly seventy years ago.

According to SPA, these traditional food preparation and serving vessels have garnered significant interest from visitors. They document daily life in old Hail and its deep-rooted social traditions, particularly in gatherings and special occasions.

The pavilion aims to connect visitors to Hail's history and social legacy, fostering appreciation for national heritage and ensuring cultural preservation for future generations.