Warsaw Opens a New Modern Art Museum as It Tries to Leave Poland’s Communist Legacy Behind

The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)
The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)
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Warsaw Opens a New Modern Art Museum as It Tries to Leave Poland’s Communist Legacy Behind

The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)
The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)

A modern art museum designed by American architect Thomas Phifer opens its doors in the Polish capital Friday — a minimalist, light-filled structure that is meant to be a symbol of openness and tolerance as the city tries to free itself from its communist legacy.

The Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw sits like a bright white box on a major city street. Inside, a monumental staircase with geometric lines rises to upper floors, where large windows flood the gallery rooms with light.

City and museum officials say the light and open spaces are meant to attract meetings and debate — and become a symbol of the democratic era that Poland embraced when it threw off authoritarian communist rule 35 years ago.

Warsaw Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski said the museum's opening is a "historic moment for Warsaw" and that the project, which will later include a theater, will help to create a new city center no longer dominated by a communist symbol.

"This place will change beyond recognition, it will be a completely new center," he said Thursday. "There has not been a place like this in Warsaw for decades, a place that would be created from scratch precisely to promote Polish art, which is spectacular in itself."

Warsaw was turned to rubble by occupying German forces during World War II and was rebuilt in the gray, sometimes drab, style of communist regimes across Eastern Europe. But years of economic growth in the post-communist era have produced modern glass architecture, cutting-edge museums and revitalized historic buildings.

The museum was built on the site of a former parking lot near the Palace of Culture and Science, a dominating Stalinist skyscraper. Though long hated by many who saw in it as a symbol of Moscow's oppression, the ornate palace remains an icon of the city today — perhaps even the city's most recognized building.

The museum responds with its bright white minimalism and smaller scale.

"It is very important that this building is located opposite the Palace of Culture and Science and symbolically changes the center," museum director Joanna Mytkowska said. "This is a building dedicated to open, equal and democratic culture."

American and other Western architects are putting their mark on Warsaw. The city skyline includes a soaring luxury tower created by Daniel Libeskind, the renowned Polish American architect. The firm of British designer Norman Foster created the Varso Tower, which at 310 meters (1,017 feet) is the tallest skyscraper in the European Union. A Finnish architectural team designed the city's landmark Jewish history museum.

Phifer's New York-based practice is known in the United States for projects including the North Carolina Museum of Art, the Corning Museum of Glass and the Glenstone Museum expansion in Potomac, Maryland.

Asked by a reporter if he viewed the Warsaw museum as his masterpiece, the 71-year-old did not hesitate with his answer. "Of course," he said.

He said from the time he began working on the museum 10 years ago, he was aware that his work was part of Warsaw's "remarkable renaissance."

The city financed the 700,000 million zloty ($175 million) project. In the first weeks it will hold performances and present several large-scale sculptures and installation pieces by female artists, including Magdalena Abakanowicz, Alina Szapocznikow, Sandra Mujinga and Cecilia Vicuña. The full opening with its larger collection is scheduled for February.

The area around the building is still under construction and will eventually become what the architect calls a "forum space," including a garden and a theater with a black facade, also designed by Phifer.

Not everyone loves the new museum's austerity, and some residents have compared it to a concrete bunker.

Phifer said he believes the critics will feel differently when they enter the building and see its design and how the white background gives space for the art "to come alive."

"The museum is what I would call a magic box. There is a bit of mystery to it," he said. "You don't really understand this work until you come inside and experience it with the art."

Trzaskowski, the mayor, said all ambitious architectural projects are bound to stir up emotions.

"Every large project that has been built from scratch in the world, such as the Pompidou Centre in Paris, the Guggenheim in Bilbao or the pyramid in the Louvre, has stirred up controversy," Trzaskowski said. The real controversies, he added, are yet to come when the avant-garde museum starts staging its exhibitions.



India’s Architecture Fans Guard Mumbai’s Art Deco Past

In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)
In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)
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India’s Architecture Fans Guard Mumbai’s Art Deco Past

In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)
In this photograph taken on October 19, 2024, vehicles ride past the Soona Mahal, a UNESCO-designated Art Deco apartment building along the Marine Drive seafront in Mumbai. (AFP)

A towering cinema with a roofline like an ocean liner stands out in India's financial capital Mumbai, part of a remarkable Art Deco architectural heritage that campaigners say needs protection.

A short walk away is a state-run insurance office with giant Egyptian-style carvings, and a palm-lined seafront promenade with pastel-colored apartments with porthole windows, curved balconies and exotic motifs.

Architecture aficionados may go crazy over Miami's South Beach, but the coastal Indian megacity is home to what experts believe is one of the world's largest collections of Art Deco buildings.

Decades of neglect, however, have led to buildings being demolished or compromised through slapdash modern renovation.

Lovers of the dramatic architecture fear that will only increase as Mumbai undergoes a rapid $30 billion infrastructure makeover including major road, rail and bridge projects.

A sweep of some Art Deco buildings -- including offices, colleges and residential complexes -- was listed on UNESCO's World Heritage list in 2018, alongside the city's Victorian Gothic architecture for its "unique style" described as "Indo-Deco".

Today, the city's breakneck pace of development has left a small but dedicated group of building owners, architects and heritage lovers trying to conserve the city's Art Deco character.

The job requires "constant vigilance", said Nayana Kathpalia, who lives in an Art Deco building that was recently restored -- but crucially in a manner that maintained its original character.

- 'Modern, open, friendly' -

Many apartment building owners are eager to cash in and redevelop their old dwellings, making them part of a cookie-cutter modern skyline.

"If too many buildings get done in a totally different style, the World Heritage Site committee will say 'what the hell is happening?'," Kathpalia said.

"We are very, very clear that we have to protect that."

Losing it could strip the city of its history and character, campaigners say.

Art Deco took the West by storm after emerging as a new wave of design in France before the First World War.

Architects used geometric patterns and streamlined structures to evoke the popular technologies of the time, including airplanes and ocean liners.

As a style, Art Deco can appear as an odd hodgepodge, borrowing everything from ancient Mayan to Japanese culture.

But the first generation of homegrown Indian architects who visited Europe in the 1920s and 1930s were inspired.

After returning home, they started designing Art Deco style buildings for rich Indian business families that had profited off the economic boom in the port city, said Atul Kumar, founder of a non-profit that seeks to conserve the heritage.

Art Deco "enabled a certain cosmopolitanism" and contributed to making Mumbai a "modern, open, friendly" city, Kumar added.

- 'Bombay style' -

While Kumar's Art Deco Mumbai organization has spent years painstakingly documenting buildings, it has also more recently started offering "repair and restoration" help.

"We go out, pro bono, and reach out to people," he said, having supported the sensitive restoration of around nine buildings, including a couple in the core World Heritage area.

However, there are challenges, including stringent rent control laws which impose financial constraints on landlords.

Kumar also admits that residents in newer and northern parts of the city have less of a "desire" to conserve their buildings in their original Art Deco style.

A large part of this is due to a lack of awareness.

Many of the city's inhabitants walk past the vivid tropical imagery, elongated turrets and jazzy typography without giving them a second glance.

Pranati Mehta, a 46-year-old school teacher, says most Indians only look at "temples as architecture", as they "feel that is special".

Some Mumbai residents don't realize they "live amongst art", she said.

But Mehta, who was on a weekend walking tour to learn more about the architectural style, quickly adds that Art Deco isn't foreign to Indian sensibilities.

"We recognize it as a Bombay style," she said. "We think Art Deco is also an Indian brand".