War Casts Shadow over Lebanon’s Ancient Baalbek

Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)
Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)
TT

War Casts Shadow over Lebanon’s Ancient Baalbek

Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)
Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike on the Lebanese city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 23, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)

Since war erupted between Israel and Hezbollah, the famed Palmyra Hotel in east Lebanon's Baalbek has been without visitors, but long-time employee Rabih Salika refuses to leave -- even as bombs drop nearby.

The hotel, which was built in 1874, once welcomed renowned guests including former French President Charles de Gaulle and American singer Nina Simone.

Overlooking a large archaeological complex encompassing the ruins of an ancient Roman town, the Palmyra has kept its doors open through several conflicts and years of economic collapse.

"This hotel hasn't closed its doors for 150 years," Salika said, explaining that it welcomed guests at the height of Lebanon's 1975-1990 civil war and during Israel's last war with Hezbollah in 2006.

The 45-year-old has worked there for more than half his life and says he will not abandon it now.

"I'm very attached to this place," he said, adding that the hotel's vast, desolate halls leave "a huge pang in my heart".

He spends his days dusting decaying furniture and antique mirrors. He clears glass shards from windows shattered by strikes.

Baalbek, known as the "City of the Sun" in ancient times, is home to one of the world's largest complex of Roman temples -- designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

But the latest Israel-Hezbollah war has cast a pall over the eastern city, home to an estimated 250,000 people before the war.

Smoke billows from the site of an Israeli airstrike that targeted Lebanon's eastern city of Baalbek in the Bekaa valley on September 25, 2024, behind the ancient Roman ruins and the six columns that remain standing at the Temple of Jupiter. (AFP)

- Life at a standstill -

After a year of cross-border clashes with Hezbollah, Israel last month ramped-up strikes on the group's strongholds, including parts of Baalbek.

Only about 40 percent of Baalbek's residents remain in the city, local officials say.

On October 6, Israeli strikes fell hundreds of meters (yards) away from the Roman columns that bring tourists to the city and the Palmyra hotel.

UNESCO told AFP it was "closely following the impact of the ongoing crisis in Lebanon on the cultural heritage sites".

More than a month into the war, a handful of Baalbek's shops remain open, albeit for short periods of time.

"The market is almost always closed. It opens for one hour a day, and sometimes not at all," said Baalbek mayor Mustafa al-Shall.

Residents shop for groceries quickly in the morning, rarely venturing out after sundown.

They try "not to linger on the streets fearing an air strike could hit at any moment," he said.

Last year, nearly 70,000 tourists and 100,000 Lebanese visited Baalbek. But the city has only attracted five percent of those figures so far this year, the mayor said.

Even before the war, local authorities in Baalbek were struggling to provide public services due to a five-year economic crisis.

Now municipality employees are mainly working to clear the rubble from the streets and provide assistance to shelters housing the displaced.

A Baalbek hospital was put out of service by a recent Israeli strike, leaving only five other facilities still fully functioning, Shall said.

A cat walks at the entrance of the historical Palmyra hotel in the eastern Lebanese city of Baalbek on October 19, 2024. (AFP)

- 'No one' -

Baalbek resident Hussein al-Jammal said the war has turned his life upside down.

"The streets were full of life, the citadel was welcoming visitors, restaurants were open, and the markets were crowded," the 37-year-old social worker said.

"Now, there is no one."

His young children and his wife have fled the fighting, but he said he had a duty to stay behind and help those in need.

"I work in the humanitarian field, I cannot leave, even if everyone leaves," he said.

Only four homes in his neighborhood are still inhabited, he said, mostly by vulnerable elderly people.

"I pay them a visit every morning to see what they need," he said, but "it's hard to be away from your family".

This picture shows closed shops on an empty street in the eastern Lebanese city of Baalbek on October 19, 2024. (AFP)

Rasha al-Rifai, 45, provides psychological support to women facing gender-based violence.

But in the month since the war began, she has lost contact with many.

"Before the war... we didn't worry about anything," said Rifai, who lives with her elderly parents.

"Now everything has changed, we work remotely, we don't see anyone, most of the people I know have left."

"In the 2006 war we were displaced several times, it was a very difficult experience, we don't want this to happen again," she said.

"We will stay here as long as it is bearable."



Warsaw Opens a New Modern Art Museum as It Tries to Leave Poland’s Communist Legacy Behind

The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)
The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)
TT

Warsaw Opens a New Modern Art Museum as It Tries to Leave Poland’s Communist Legacy Behind

The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)
The Museum of Modern Art in the Polish capital is seen on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2024, in Warsaw, Poland. (AP)

A modern art museum designed by American architect Thomas Phifer opens its doors in the Polish capital Friday — a minimalist, light-filled structure that is meant to be a symbol of openness and tolerance as the city tries to free itself from its communist legacy.

The Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw sits like a bright white box on a major city street. Inside, a monumental staircase with geometric lines rises to upper floors, where large windows flood the gallery rooms with light.

City and museum officials say the light and open spaces are meant to attract meetings and debate — and become a symbol of the democratic era that Poland embraced when it threw off authoritarian communist rule 35 years ago.

Warsaw Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski said the museum's opening is a "historic moment for Warsaw" and that the project, which will later include a theater, will help to create a new city center no longer dominated by a communist symbol.

"This place will change beyond recognition, it will be a completely new center," he said Thursday. "There has not been a place like this in Warsaw for decades, a place that would be created from scratch precisely to promote Polish art, which is spectacular in itself."

Warsaw was turned to rubble by occupying German forces during World War II and was rebuilt in the gray, sometimes drab, style of communist regimes across Eastern Europe. But years of economic growth in the post-communist era have produced modern glass architecture, cutting-edge museums and revitalized historic buildings.

The museum was built on the site of a former parking lot near the Palace of Culture and Science, a dominating Stalinist skyscraper. Though long hated by many who saw in it as a symbol of Moscow's oppression, the ornate palace remains an icon of the city today — perhaps even the city's most recognized building.

The museum responds with its bright white minimalism and smaller scale.

"It is very important that this building is located opposite the Palace of Culture and Science and symbolically changes the center," museum director Joanna Mytkowska said. "This is a building dedicated to open, equal and democratic culture."

American and other Western architects are putting their mark on Warsaw. The city skyline includes a soaring luxury tower created by Daniel Libeskind, the renowned Polish American architect. The firm of British designer Norman Foster created the Varso Tower, which at 310 meters (1,017 feet) is the tallest skyscraper in the European Union. A Finnish architectural team designed the city's landmark Jewish history museum.

Phifer's New York-based practice is known in the United States for projects including the North Carolina Museum of Art, the Corning Museum of Glass and the Glenstone Museum expansion in Potomac, Maryland.

Asked by a reporter if he viewed the Warsaw museum as his masterpiece, the 71-year-old did not hesitate with his answer. "Of course," he said.

He said from the time he began working on the museum 10 years ago, he was aware that his work was part of Warsaw's "remarkable renaissance."

The city financed the 700,000 million zloty ($175 million) project. In the first weeks it will hold performances and present several large-scale sculptures and installation pieces by female artists, including Magdalena Abakanowicz, Alina Szapocznikow, Sandra Mujinga and Cecilia Vicuña. The full opening with its larger collection is scheduled for February.

The area around the building is still under construction and will eventually become what the architect calls a "forum space," including a garden and a theater with a black facade, also designed by Phifer.

Not everyone loves the new museum's austerity, and some residents have compared it to a concrete bunker.

Phifer said he believes the critics will feel differently when they enter the building and see its design and how the white background gives space for the art "to come alive."

"The museum is what I would call a magic box. There is a bit of mystery to it," he said. "You don't really understand this work until you come inside and experience it with the art."

Trzaskowski, the mayor, said all ambitious architectural projects are bound to stir up emotions.

"Every large project that has been built from scratch in the world, such as the Pompidou Centre in Paris, the Guggenheim in Bilbao or the pyramid in the Louvre, has stirred up controversy," Trzaskowski said. The real controversies, he added, are yet to come when the avant-garde museum starts staging its exhibitions.