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Anger at Fate of Istanbul’s Legendary Train Station

This photograph shows a view of Haydarpasa train station at Kadikoy in Istanbul, on August 22, 2025. (AFP)
This photograph shows a view of Haydarpasa train station at Kadikoy in Istanbul, on August 22, 2025. (AFP)
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Anger at Fate of Istanbul’s Legendary Train Station

This photograph shows a view of Haydarpasa train station at Kadikoy in Istanbul, on August 22, 2025. (AFP)
This photograph shows a view of Haydarpasa train station at Kadikoy in Istanbul, on August 22, 2025. (AFP)

When Senay Kartal worked at Türkiye’s most beautiful railway station, her days were filled with the rumble of locomotives and the bustle of passengers at Haydarpasa on the banks of the Bosphorus.

But gone are the days when passengers from Anatolia would walk its marble halls, suitcases in hand, marveling at the grandiose landmark on Istanbul's Asian waterfront.

Today the tracks lie silent at what was Türkiye’s busiest station, the great eastern hub of the Berlin to Baghdad railway.

Once immortalized in old Turkish films and portrayed in numerous novels, the station has been taken over by the Turkish culture ministry which wants to transform it into an art center.

Yet for the 61-year-old retiree, who still hears the echo of whistles and the cries of simit sellers hawking their sesame-coated bread rings, the iconic building should remain a railway station.

"People would step off the train and we had waiting halls where they could stay the night -- there was no need for a hotel," recalled Kartal.

"It was such a beautiful place, there was so much movement and energy, people were full of excitement and joy. That beauty no longer exists today," she told AFP.

"I gave 38 years of my life to Haydarpasa, and yet even to me, its doors are closed."

The picturesque railway station perched right on the water was inaugurated in 1908 at the end of the Ottoman Empire as Europe's gateway to the East.

It has witnessed some of the most turbulent and tragic moments in Türkiye’s history, surviving the collapse of empire, World War I, the deportation of the Armenians, military coups, earthquakes and a devastating fire.

"Haydarpasa has witnessed many historic events throughout its history including the influx of migrants from rural Türkiye to Istanbul," said Ayca Yuksel, a researcher, sociologist and author of books about Haydarpasa.

"That's why it holds a special place in the memories of people who experienced this migration. We see reflections of this in literature, art and cinema," she told AFP.

But today it lacks the very thing that gave it life: trains.

Since 2013, Hadarpasa has been closed -- initially for restoration, then by an archaeological excavation that unearthed artifacts dating back to the fifth century BC, which is still ongoing.

Last year the station was handed over to the culture ministry, with the first phase of the new arts center to be finished next year.

That involves emptying out the entire building, even though part of the complex is still used as housing for railway staff, who have been told they must leave.

"This isn't just a building, it's everything to us," said train driver Hasan Bektas, a union member who belongs to the Haydarpasa Platform -- a group of academics, urban planners and railway staff who are protesting against the government's plans.

For Bektas, it's clear the lucrative waterside location has whetted the appetite of investors.

"Their aim has always been the same: to turn every beautiful place into profit -- to strip it of value and cash in. The public's interests were never part of the equation. That's what we're against," he told AFP.

In October 2024, Culture and Tourism Minister Nuri Ersoy pledged it would continue functioning as a station.

"There will be trains... a cultural and arts center, and a public garden. But there will never be a shopping mall or hotel here," he said.

Back in the early 2000s, there were bold plans floated for the site -- it would house seven skyscrapers, a new World Trade Center, an Olympic Stadium; some even spoke of a Venice-style makeover.

"But the building itself is already a world-renowned icon. No one ever fought to keep it exactly as it was, in its original form," said Bektas, clearly furious.

Every Sunday, protesters gather near the station shouting: "Haydarpasa is a train station and must stay that way."

Although Nehir Guner was just a child when the station closed, the 22-year-old student would gaze at it every time she caught a ferry to university and wonder about its future, eventually joining the protests.

"Railways are so important for a city, we want this to remain a train station," she said.

"It's painfully clear the art center project is all for show -- designed to impress, not serve any real purpose."

Architect Gul Koksal said Haydarpasa, with its lodgings, repair workshops and nearby port, was much more than just a station and had a unique place in Turkish cultural memory.

"It's like a jewel -- but it has meaning only if it's preserved and kept alive with everything that makes it."

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Culture

Saudi Heritage Commission Announces Discovery of 20 Rock Engravings in Soudah Peaks Project

The newly identified sites feature inscriptions and rock carvings estimated to be between 4,000 and 5,000 years old. (SPA)
The newly identified sites feature inscriptions and rock carvings estimated to be between 4,000 and 5,000 years old. (SPA)
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Saudi Heritage Commission Announces Discovery of 20 Rock Engravings in Soudah Peaks Project

The newly identified sites feature inscriptions and rock carvings estimated to be between 4,000 and 5,000 years old. (SPA)
The newly identified sites feature inscriptions and rock carvings estimated to be between 4,000 and 5,000 years old. (SPA)

Saudi Arabia’s Heritage Commission, in collaboration with Soudah Development, a Public Investment Fund company, announced on Tuesday the discovery of 20 ancient rock art sites within the Soudah Peaks area.

Spanning more than 636.5 square kilometers across Soudah and parts of Rijal Almaa, the project area is now recognized as home to some of the region’s oldest cultural landmarks. The newly identified sites feature inscriptions and rock carvings estimated to be between 4,000 and 5,000 years old, offering valuable insights into the region’s rich history.

The findings include Thamudic inscriptions, along with vivid depictions of ibex, hyenas, and ostriches, as well as scenes of hunters, dancers, palm trees, and weapons, reflecting the environmental and social practices of the ancient communities that once inhabited the area.

The survey forms part of a memorandum of understanding signed between the Heritage Commission and Soudah Development. Conducted in four scientific phases, the initiative began with data collection and site analysis, concluding with the documentation and classification of high-value archaeological sites in preparation for future development and preservation efforts.

Soudah Development remains committed to protecting and promoting the natural and cultural heritage of the project area. The company continues to work towards creating an integrated cultural and tourism experience that reflects the authenticity and historical richness of the region, in line with its vision to transform Soudah Peaks into a premier luxury mountain destination rooted in heritage.

Culture

Ancient Rome Meets Modern Technology as Tourists Visit Restored, Frescoed Home via Livestream Tours

Colosseum Archeological Park guide Valentina uses a head-mounted device to livestream a guided tour for the press of the newly-restored underground House of Griffins, dated between the II and I century B.C., on the Palatine Hill next to the Colosseum, in Rome, Tuesday, Jan. 13, 2026. (AP)
Colosseum Archeological Park guide Valentina uses a head-mounted device to livestream a guided tour for the press of the newly-restored underground House of Griffins, dated between the II and I century B.C., on the Palatine Hill next to the Colosseum, in Rome, Tuesday, Jan. 13, 2026. (AP)
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Ancient Rome Meets Modern Technology as Tourists Visit Restored, Frescoed Home via Livestream Tours

Colosseum Archeological Park guide Valentina uses a head-mounted device to livestream a guided tour for the press of the newly-restored underground House of Griffins, dated between the II and I century B.C., on the Palatine Hill next to the Colosseum, in Rome, Tuesday, Jan. 13, 2026. (AP)
Colosseum Archeological Park guide Valentina uses a head-mounted device to livestream a guided tour for the press of the newly-restored underground House of Griffins, dated between the II and I century B.C., on the Palatine Hill next to the Colosseum, in Rome, Tuesday, Jan. 13, 2026. (AP)

One of the best-preserved ancient Roman homes on the Palatine Hill is opening to the public for the first time, albeit via a livestreamed tour of its hard-to-reach underground frescoes and mosaics.

The House of the Griffins was first discovered during the excavations in the early 20th century of the Palatine Hill, the verdant hill that rises up from the Roman Forum and dominates views of central Rome today with its striking red brick ruins.

The hill, located just off the Colosseum, was the site of temples and homes of leading citizens during Rome’s Republican era, which is traditionally dated from 509 B.C. to 27 B.C. It became the aristocratic quarter during the Roman Empire that followed, when new palaces were built on top of the older homes.

The House of the Griffins is one of those earlier Republican-era homes, and was hidden to the world underground after the Emperor Domitian built his palace on top of it in the first century A.D.

Now for the first time, the general public can virtually visit the House of the Griffins and its newly restored frescoes, including the decoration that gives the home its name: An arched lunette fresco featuring two griffins — the half-eagle, half-lion mythological creatures.

Visitors won’t actually walk through the home’s intimate rooms, which are only accessible via a perilously steep staircase underground. Rather, visitors above ground will watch as a tour guide wearing a head-mounted smartphone descends into the domus and walks through its rooms, livestreaming the visit and narration.

The live, virtual tour serves multiple purposes: It allows visitors to “see” a domus that, because of its underground location, would otherwise be off-limits. And by limiting the number of people in its rooms, the livestreaming protects the delicate frescoes from too much humidity and carbon dioxide.

Project chief Federica Rinaldi said archaeologists don’t know much about the family who lived there, but said they were clearly well-off. The level of decoration recalls some of the elegant homes of the era in Pompeii: The frescoes feature richly colored faux marble designs, and floor mosaics of three-dimensional cubes.

“Its location at the highest point of the hill, its distribution over several levels that take advantage of the slopes of the Palatine Hill itself, and its preservation make it today an almost textbook reference," she said. “It was certainly a domus of the highest standard.”

Starting on March 3, the livestreamed tours will be held weekly, on Tuesdays, with one in Italian and one in English, though more are foreseen. Groups are limited to a dozen people and require reservations, as well as an additional ticket beyond the typical Colosseum-Palatine Hill entrance fee.

The restoration of the House of the Griffins is one of 10 projects funded by the European Union in the archaeological park and is part of an effort to spread tourists out beyond the must-see Colosseum and Forum, which often get overwhelmed with visitors.

“It’s a great occasion to value the full territory of the park,” said the head of the park, Simone Quilici.

Culture

Sudan Recovers 570 Artifacts Looted During War

Artifacts that were recovered after being looted from the National Museum in Khartoum during the country's long-running war, are displayed during an official ceremony in Port Sudan on January 13, 2026. (AFP)
Artifacts that were recovered after being looted from the National Museum in Khartoum during the country's long-running war, are displayed during an official ceremony in Port Sudan on January 13, 2026. (AFP)
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Sudan Recovers 570 Artifacts Looted During War

Artifacts that were recovered after being looted from the National Museum in Khartoum during the country's long-running war, are displayed during an official ceremony in Port Sudan on January 13, 2026. (AFP)
Artifacts that were recovered after being looted from the National Museum in Khartoum during the country's long-running war, are displayed during an official ceremony in Port Sudan on January 13, 2026. (AFP)

Sudanese authorities displayed ancient figurines, ornate vases and scarab-shaped amulets at a ceremony Tuesday in Port Sudan celebrating the recovery of more than 570 antiquities stolen from the national museum during the country's long-running war.

The artifacts, arranged on large tables under heavy security, were recovered after months of investigation and brought to the wartime capital of Port Sudan.

The National Museum in Khartoum, which housed some of Sudan's most important archaeological collections, was looted and badly damaged after the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF) seized the capital in the early days of its war with the army, its former ally.

At the time, satellite images showed trucks carrying artifacts west, towards the vast region of Darfur -- now completely under RSF control.

Since then, Sudanese authorities have worked with UNESCO and Interpol to track down the stolen items.

Authorities did not detail on Tuesday exactly how the artifacts were recovered.

"Sudan heritage is not only of national importance, it is a treasure of humanity," said UNESCO's representative in Sudan, Ahmed Junaid, referring to international efforts to combat illicit trafficking of cultural property.

"Many people do not know the value of the objects displayed on the tables, but they reflect the identity of the nation and its history," said Sudan's finance minister Gibril Ibrahim.

Khalid Aleisir, minister of information and culture, announced a "financial reward" for anyone returning antiquities to the authorities, without specifying an amount.

Officials estimate that the recovered items account for about 30 percent of the objects looted from the museum.

Still missing are the contents of the so-called "gold room", the museum's most valuable collection, which included ancient jewellery and 24-carat gold pieces, some nearly 8,000 years old.