Pharrell Williams Takes over Paris for Fashion Debut

Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP
Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP
TT

Pharrell Williams Takes over Paris for Fashion Debut

Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP
Pharrell takes over as menswear director for the biggest brand in luxury fashion. Robyn BECK / AFP

Some of the most historic parts of Paris are being cordoned off on Tuesday for the first catwalk show by US superstar Pharrell Williams in his new role as artistic director for Louis Vuitton.

The singer-producer is adding to his repertoire as he takes over menswear collections for the world's most lucrative brand, which made more than 20 billion euros ($22 billion) in revenue last year, AFP said.

His debut is the hottest ticket of the season, due late at night on the oldest standing bridge in the French capital, the Pont Neuf, with guests set to view the catwalk from boats on the Seine.

A whole stretch of the riverbank is being cordoned off -- from the bridge up to the Concorde plaza -- from the early afternoon, a police source told AFP.

Guests received their elaborate invitations on Monday -- a sort of mini-stained glass window featuring a sunset over the bridge that suggests yellow will be a dominant color, in keeping with the singer's "Happy" vibes.

He told the New York Times this week that the theme is "lovers".

"I was appointed to rule in this position," he told the newspaper. "But a ruler of this position for me is a perpetual student. It's what I intend to be."

'Sells culture'

"We can expect a commercial hit -- it's not just one of the most highly anticipated collections of fashion week but a very significant moment in fashion history," said Alexandre Samson, of Paris fashion museum Palais Galliera.

Many labels have moved away from the big-name designers of the past like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld, preferring more discreet professionals.

But Louis Vuitton is going the other way, putting a full-blown celebrity in charge.

It follows its last show in January when a performance by Spanish pop superstar Rosalia was almost more of a focus than the clothes on the runway.

It is "consistent with LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault's idea that Louis Vuitton does not sell handbags but sells culture", said bank HSBC in a briefing note.

"The nomination is obviously not just relevant for menswear... but targeted for a greater halo effect that could resonate to all core lines of the brand."

The 50-year-old Williams nonetheless faces a major challenge filling the shoes of Virgil Abloh, the former Kanye West sidekick who breathed new streetwear-infused life into Louis Vuitton prior to his tragically early death from cancer in 2021.

But he has long been a red carpet sensation, known for daring outfits that go far beyond the usual hip-hop stylings, and a string of collaborations with Chanel, Moncler and Tiffany -- as well as Louis Vuitton.

"Pharrell has always been ahead of clothing trends, in terms of music as well... it will be interesting to see how he uses his flair for innovative artistic projects," said Pierre Alexandre M'Pele, editor of GQ France.



LVMH Third-Quarter Sales Fall 3% as China Weighs

Logo of Dior brand is seen outside a Dior store in Paris, France, January 27, 2020. (Reuters)
Logo of Dior brand is seen outside a Dior store in Paris, France, January 27, 2020. (Reuters)
TT

LVMH Third-Quarter Sales Fall 3% as China Weighs

Logo of Dior brand is seen outside a Dior store in Paris, France, January 27, 2020. (Reuters)
Logo of Dior brand is seen outside a Dior store in Paris, France, January 27, 2020. (Reuters)

French luxury giant LVMH reported a 3% fall in third-quarter sales on Tuesday, its first decline in quarterly sales since the pandemic, as rising prices and economic uncertainty held back shoppers.

Revenue for the world's biggest luxury group was 19.08 billion euros ($20.8 billion) for the three months ending in September, a 3% fall on an organic basis, stripping out the effect of currencies, acquisitions and divestitures.

The figure missed a consensus estimate of 2% organic growth, according to Barclays.

The numbers will offer little reassurance to jittery investors who already had low expectations for the quarter.

The fashion and leather goods division, home to Louis Vuitton and Dior labels, reported a decline of 5%, well below consensus expectations for 4% growth, and the first decline for the business since 2020 during the height of the pandemic.

Fashion and leather goods comprise almost half of LVMH revenue and nearly three-quarters of its recurring profit.

Investors have grown nervous about the luxury goods sector since a post-pandemic spending spree lost momentum last year, with Chinese appetite for high end fashion a major source of concern. The country's property crisis has weighed on shoppers' confidence, and hopes that government stimulus measures could quickly reignite enthusiasm for high-end merchandise have yet to be fulfilled.

UBS has predicted that the third quarter will be the worst for the sector in four years, with a 1% decline in organic sales year-on-year.