Fashion and Film Merge as Paris Shows its Opulent Side

Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
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Fashion and Film Merge as Paris Shows its Opulent Side

Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
Chanel's show took place alongside the River Seine. Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

From an absurdly opulent film shoot at the Opera Garnier to a Chanel catwalk along the Seine, fashion week offered a very different view of Paris on Tuesday from the riots of recent days.

The country is still licking its wounds and facing up to the deep societal divisions exposed by days of violence sparked a week ago by the police killing of a teenager, said AFP.

The riots have died down since the weekend, and it was the other France -- of unbridled luxury, craftsmanship and conspicuous excess -- that took center-stage on the second day of haute couture week.

Chanel's models paraded alongside the River Seine with the Eiffel Tower in the background, some with little dogs or baskets of flowers, in a show of "sophistication and simplicity," said designer Virginie Viard.

She mixed tweeds, silk muslins, organzas and encrusted lace with floral and graphic motifs. A few bright colors, including Barbie pink, stood out against a largely grey palette.
Over at the Opera Garnier, the 19th-century monument to late-imperial excess, couturier Stephane Rolland put on a fabulously opulent show that was also being filmed by veteran filmmaker Claude Lelouch for his next movie, "Finalement".
There was a strapless velvet dress with a glittering diamond hood, an elaborate headpiece that looked like a mass of gold flames, and a long red satin dress with a bejewelled collar.

The show was an homage to Greek singer Maria Callas, whose voice was heard through the show, aimed at reliving one of her most legendary performances at the Opera Garnier in December 1958.

Rolland is known for bright colors, such as the bright-yellow dress in which he put singer Pretty Yende for the coronation of King Charles III recently.

But he said "in the heart of the Palais Garnier, I didn't want to disturb the scenery with pinks, yellows and greens" and stuck mostly to black, white and a few flashes of deep red.
Actors mingled with the guests for the upcoming movie from Lelouch, best-known for his Oscar-winning 1966 film "A Man and a Woman".

The director's request to film during the show was "like a gift from heaven," Rolland told AFP, adding that it was vital to merge fashion and other art forms.

"It's very important in our profession. I find that from time to time it lacks a bit of refinement. Money is not everything," he said.
Also showing on Tuesday was French designer Alexis Mabille, who created a female take on the tuxedo.

And there was another luxurious display from Giorgio Armani, all sumptuous ballgowns adorned with many variations on poppies and roses.

Red was a dominant color for the Italian -- even for the wedding dress at the end.



Hugo Boss Third Quarter Operating Profit Beats Expectations on Better Cost Control

New Hugo Boss logo and their website shop are seen in this illustration taken, May 17, 2024. (Reuters)
New Hugo Boss logo and their website shop are seen in this illustration taken, May 17, 2024. (Reuters)
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Hugo Boss Third Quarter Operating Profit Beats Expectations on Better Cost Control

New Hugo Boss logo and their website shop are seen in this illustration taken, May 17, 2024. (Reuters)
New Hugo Boss logo and their website shop are seen in this illustration taken, May 17, 2024. (Reuters)

Hugo Boss' third-quarter operating profit slightly beat market expectations on Tuesday, as the company reported a 1% increase in currency-adjusted group sales amid persistently weak demand in China.

Quarterly earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) were down 7% on the year at 95 million euros ($103.3 million), but above analysts' estimate of 90 million euros in a company-provided poll, helped by cost management, it said.

Hugo Boss shares were indicated 2.5% higher in Lang & Schwarz premarket trade.

"Estimates for the coming quarter should be anchored today," analysts at Jefferies wrote in a note to clients, highlighting improved sales in September, better cost control and Hugo Boss' confirmed guidance for the year.

After a 2022 brand revamp boosted its resilience last year, the upmarket fashion label has been grappling with weakening consumer demand despite increasing investment in marketing and production capacity in recent months.

Currency-adjusted sales were 1.029 billion euros during the three months, slightly up from 1.027 billion last year and broadly in line with market expectations of 1.023 billion euros.

"Particularly in China, the overall market environment was affected by persistent subdued consumer demand," the company said in a statement.

Quarterly currency-adjusted sales in its third-biggest market Asia/Pacific fell 7% to 110 million euros, but increased 1% in the Europe, Middle-East and Africa region and 4% in the Americas.

The company said improvements in Germany offset softer sales trends in France and in Britain, while it also saw further sales improvements in the United States.

Hugo Boss, which is taking additional measures to enhance efficiency and effectiveness, especially around sourcing, said it continued to focus on cost control to support profitability into the fourth quarter. It maintained its full-year sales and earnings forecasts after slashing them earlier this year.