Prada Explores Lightness with Windswept Translucent Chiffon for Next Summer 

A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.
A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.
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Prada Explores Lightness with Windswept Translucent Chiffon for Next Summer 

A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.
A model presents a creation of Prada collection during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 21 September 2023.

Prada achieved a state of unbearable lightness in a series of translucent chiffon dresses that gently cosseted the form, trailed by wispy strands of the finest organza.

Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aptly dubbed the series of ethereal, windswept dresses previewed during Milan Fashion Week on Thursday as “Haze.” They never altered shape, only the shades of muted pastels shifted. They were paired with bright satin mules, either flats or with small triangular heels.

As they did during menswear in June, models walked past a wall of clear, oozing slime, which pooled, then drained down an industrial grate runway, this season in peach. Miuccia Prada said there was a thematic link.

“The whole thing started from lightness,” Prada told reporters backstage. “We wanted to do a really light, light, light show. Usually, we ... tend to do heavy. It was a challenge to do light.”

Simons said it took the pair the full three years of their collaboration to date to figure out a “light and fluid” approach as a counterpoint to their exploration of weightier topics, like uniforms and decoration.

“The collection is about fluidity, and movement and material that you maybe can’t really grasp easily as solid,” Simons said.

Not that uniforms and decoration were ignored. Chiffon capes gave diaphanous elegance to high-waist belted shorts and a worker’s shirt. A leather utility vest was decorated with swirls of crystals, and there were jumpsuits with notched lapels. As in menswear, long fringe created a curtain over prints. Crushed velvet dresses were decorated with crystals, studs and metal eyelets.

“They are beautiful clothes for today,” Prada said.

Belts were the accessory of the season, especially with long trailing fringe: tinsel silver, coppery gold, leather with eyelets or silky strands.

The new collection featured a reissued bag originally made by Miuccia Prada’s grandfather, Mario Prada, in 1913, a link back to the brand’s lineage as a leather goods company. The gathered handbag features a clasp closure shaped like the mythological face with bulging eyes and tongue stuck out — just as it did in Mario’s day. “He was very eccentric, even back then,” Prada said.

The updated versions are made in leather or the brand’s trademark recycled nylon, Re-nylon.

The backstage surge included Scarlett Johansson and Benedict Cumberbatch, as the writers strike in Hollywood may have left the stars with time to fill fashion’s front rows.



Paris Fashion Week Outsider Highlights

US rapper A$AP Rocky presented his debut collection. Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP
US rapper A$AP Rocky presented his debut collection. Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP
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Paris Fashion Week Outsider Highlights

US rapper A$AP Rocky presented his debut collection. Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP
US rapper A$AP Rocky presented his debut collection. Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP

As well as the usual big-hitters at the menswear shows of Paris Fashion Week, there were some unexpected moments from emerging and avant-garde brands.
Here are a few highlights:
A$AP-style
A$AP Rocky, rapper and partner of Rihanna, launched a surprise with his first-ever clothing collection on Friday, said AFP.
The gangster vibes were strong, with models in balaclavas and luxury cars parked in the courtyard of a private hotel.
The rap elite were present, including Colombian icon Maluma, while Rihanna emerged in an evening dress and leather coat.
The clothes themselves combined baggy, XXL street wear plastered with the brand name American Sabotage AWGE.
The line may help with his legal fees -- he is currently facing prosecution for allegedly shooting his former friend Terell Ephron.
Rick Owens blockbuster
Rick Owens, the master showman of avant-garde art-fashion, excelled himself with his latest show, a homage to golden-era Hollywood historical epics at the Palais de Tokyo.
Instead of single-file, the models emerged in massed ranks, looking like a cross between fascist platoons, Ancient Roman processions and "Dune"-style otherworldly monks in their white gowns and hoods or pharaonic headdresses.
"It was a display of Rick's incredible talent and showmanship, creating a fashion moment that won't soon be forgotten," said Harrods buyer Simon Longland.
Beirenbonkers
Even by his own whacky standards, Walter Van Beirendonck pushed the limits of taste, with outfits that looked like pompom-laden devil clowns.
The Belgian veteran created oversized neon costumes, with smiley faces on hats and buttocks, little cardboard birthday hats, and twisted Joker-style smiles.
Not safe for work.
Friot's loud love
One new name creating buzz in France is young designer Jeanne Friot.
In a collection sponsored by Tinder, she stripped down gender codes with risque fishnet-dresses and fun innovations like a dress made entirely of belts, or another of tiny love-locks.
One model came out with the words "Love Louder" painted on his bare chest.
Backstage, the politically committed designer herself wore a T-shirt reading: "Why be racist, sexist, homophobic, transphobic when you could just be quiet?"