Givenchy Goes Back to Its Storied Roots in Atelier Men’s Show in Paris

Models present creations from the Fall/Winter 2024/2025 collection by Egonlab fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 17 January 2024. (EPA)
Models present creations from the Fall/Winter 2024/2025 collection by Egonlab fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 17 January 2024. (EPA)
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Givenchy Goes Back to Its Storied Roots in Atelier Men’s Show in Paris

Models present creations from the Fall/Winter 2024/2025 collection by Egonlab fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 17 January 2024. (EPA)
Models present creations from the Fall/Winter 2024/2025 collection by Egonlab fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 17 January 2024. (EPA)

In times of self-searching and doubt, fashion houses often find comfort and power in going back to their roots to re-center and find their voice again. Givenchy, in the wake of the departure of designer Matthew M. Williams, did just that.

This season, the designer-less house held on Wednesday a menswear show at their Avenue Montaigne atelier, an archetypical couture setting. Models walked slowly past guests like in bygone decades, in a show whose emphasis was intensely on the clothes, rather than showmanship.

This season, there was no razzmatazz, no celebrities — just a pared-down audience, nibbling madeleines, Turkish delight, and sipping drinks around dinner tables. It was a small, sometimes nostalgic display that laid bare the finesse and power of the age-old house’s famed atelier, making for a collection brimming with style, finesse, and luxury.

GIVENCHY GETS ICONIC AND REVERENTIAL

In the very atelier where the late fashion legend Hubert de Givenchy once crafted his most iconic designs, Wednesday served as a poignant reminder of the house’s profound ties to couture. Givenchy’s design studio showcased fine tailoring with an array of suits featuring bare arms emerging gracefully through holes inserted at the suit's underarm, while sleeves flapped elegantly on top.

This design ethos paid homage to the founder’s affinity for innovative cuts. The color palette incorporated hues of blue, including Klein, pale, and navy, alongside gray and brown, honoring the founder’s distinctive preferences. However, the collection also embarked on explorations of sapphire, a color so beloved by de Givenchy that he saw it as an alternative to classic black.

It resulted in a muted color scheme for a relatively understated collection. Nevertheless, the simplicity of the designs did not equate to a lack of interest. Among the thoughtful minimalist creations was a pearl loose tunic top, part-Star Trek, part-ER, paired with fur chapka headwear. The melodious strains of Leonard Cohen’s “Take This Waltz” wrapped the collection in a nostalgic aura.

One particularly striking element was the reimagining of the iconic blouse blanche, capturing the essence of workwear with a couture twist. Coats and suits sported incisions reminiscent of de Givenchy’s penchant for capes.

However, amidst this transitional phase for Givenchy, certain designs, while luxurious, occasionally felt somewhat disconnected, mirroring the house’s ongoing journey to redefine itself. The show left fashion enthusiasts anticipating its next move — the choice of a successor to Williams, who will undoubtedly have the challenge of steering this venerable fashion house into its next chapter.

BOTTER BLASTS BOLD CARIBBEAN FLARE INTO ECLECTIC SHOW

Botter, renowned for its “Caribbean couture,” unveiled an eclectic mix that blurred the lines between sartorial finesse and sportswear, peppered with their signature quirks. The collection by designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh was a vibrant demonstration of their knack for fusing sustainability with avant-garde fashion, a philosophy that earned them the 2022 ANDAM Grand Prize.

The show featured a brown, nipped-shouldered ensemble with minimalist lines, uniquely accessorized with a woolen beanie proudly declaring “Caribbean.” This piece, more than just a headwear, was a nod to the designer’s heritage.

In striking contrast, a classic black tie and white shirt were paired with urban sneakers, embodying Botter’s flair for fusing formalwear with casual elements. Bursts of eye-popping yellow in a loose tunic gown brought the Caribbean’s vibrancy to Paris.

A recurring theme in the co-ed show was the haphazard and voluminous layering of garments in divergent hues, creating a funky, energetic vibe on the runway. This approach, emblematic of Botter’s innovative spirit, has set them apart in the fashion world, showcasing an aesthetic that marries sustainability with cultural richness.

As models sashayed down the runway in this collection, Botter’s vision for an environmentally conscious and culturally diverse fashion industry was crystal clear. The collection was not just a display of garments, but rather a celebration of the brand’s journey in redefining the norms of fashion with a sustainable approach.

EGONLAB ROCKS PARIS WITH FIERCE BLACKS

In a display of futurism meets fashion, Egonlab’s latest collection lit up Paris Fashion Week with its innovative designs -- and dramatic lighting. The Wednesday show saw a runway bathed in dappled beams, setting the stage for a series of fierce, black men’s looks that commanded attention with their oversized, harsh shoulders.

Designers Florentin Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix, known for their blend of artistry and boldness, presented a show that seamlessly combined elements of the past and future. A standout piece was a black tuxedo, nipped at the waist, creating an Asiatic silhouette that epitomized East meets West. Gothic Glam Rock met 70s flair in a billowing sheeny leather trench coat adorned with ridiculously long tassels, evoking a warrior-like presence.

The collection then took a softer turn, with moments of blossoming florals and total look denim, showcasing Egonlab’s versatility and commitment to diverse expression.



Dolce&Gabbana CEO Ready to Open Capital to New Investors

The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
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Dolce&Gabbana CEO Ready to Open Capital to New Investors

The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann

Dolce&Gabbana is ready to consider opening up its capital to new investors either through a listing or other routes, the Italian fashion house's CEO said.
"We are now ready to consider opening our capital to third parties through a listing or other financial instruments," CEO Alfonso Dolce said in an interview published on Monday in Corriere della Sera's L'Economia weekly supplement.
The financing must "not compromise the ethical value of our company, its respectful growth," said Dolce, brother of Domenico, who founded the group and runs it in partnership with Stefano Gabbana, Reuters reported.
In May, the CEO did not rule out a possible future stock market listing, but said the move was not a priority.
Dolce&Gabbana's revenue for the 2023-2024 fiscal year, which ended in March, was up 17% to 1.871 billion euros ($2.04 billion), said Dolce, adding that he hoped to repeat this growth this year.
The fashion house will open 12 new stores in the US, including at 695 Madison Avenue in New York, the former Hermes location, with more than 2,000 square meters over five floors.
"The United States are vital, we already have 72 stores, plus four in Canada, together they represent 28% of our turnover, compared to 16% in China," said Dolce.